The best way to insulate a house from the outside with your own hands: useful tips

Why external insulation and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the useful volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard according to which insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Insulation from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can only be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, when work on the outside cannot be carried out due to the design features or the facade “belongs” to a house that is classified as an architectural monument.

Polyurethane foam

Refers to a type of plastic. Suitable for any surface, low vapor permeability. It fits tightly to any structure, due to this, tightness is created.

There is no fungus on it, it does not deform, and is resistant to any influences. Doesn't make noise. However, the procedure for applying such material will require certain equipment. This will make its price higher, which can also become a limiting factor when purchasing.

Video description

The result of proper internal insulation of a house in the video:

Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against the wall getting wet - water vapor will find its way into the film joints and fastening points Source domvpavlino.ru

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations - from the outside.

But there are exceptions! Insulation from plant materials.

Environmentally friendly insulation made from flax and hemp fibers have unique properties and, using them, you can deviate from generally accepted rules. Thermal insulation made from plant materials does not require the use of vapor barrier. Such thermal insulation can be used both internally and externally in almost any structure. If additional wall insulation is performed, then vapor barrier is not used at all. This is especially important when insulating wooden walls. This method of insulation allows you to maintain a favorable microclimate for a person in a wooden house, while significantly improving the heat-saving characteristics of the structure. If a frame house or roof is insulated with flax insulation or hemp insulation, then instead of a vapor barrier, special vapor barrier cardboard is used. Flax and hemp are natural antiseptics, they are not afraid of moisture and can remove moisture from the structure through their capillary fibers; this is their main difference from other non-organic insulation materials. Linen and hemp insulation are absolutely safe for humans, are not afraid of rodents, are durable and will last more than 70 years.

Video description

Which insulation is better? Watch the test of mineral wool, polystyrene and NPE Tepofol in this video:

Tepofol

This is a new type of thermal insulation made of polyethylene foam with a heat-reflecting layer. Made from LDPE - high-density polyethylene. This raw material is widely used in the food industry, which confirms its safety. Surely you have already come across similar material. Previously, it was used in conjunction with other types of thermal insulation only as a vapor barrier. This was due to the production of small thickness - up to 10 mm. The Tepofol company has developed and patented a system of interlocking connections and has the ability to produce insulation up to 150 mm thick. Despite this possibility, in the central region for year-round use, the optimal thickness is 60-80 mm. This allows it to be used as the main thermal insulation without the use of other types of insulation. Tepofol does not absorb moisture and does not lose its properties; it is no longer necessary to use vapor barrier and wind protection. With traditional insulation technology, thermal insulation is laid between the frame. But since the thermal conductivity of wood is higher than that of any thermal insulation, in this case the frame itself will act as a cold bridge. In the case of insulation with Tepofol, the rolls are rolled out along the structure itself, after which the locking joints located on the top and bottom of the roll are soldered together with a construction hairdryer. This allows you to achieve a solid, sealed fabric, without cracks and without cold bridges, without resorting to the use of foam and sealants.

External insulation of the house Source tepofol.ru

Example of internal roof insulation Source tepofol.ru

Expanded polystyrene

Better known as "foam". To be precise, in addition to slabs, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity varies with density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Its popularity is explained by its availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, and low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Polystyrene foam is considered low-flammable, and those marked PSB-S are self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But during a fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of “breathable” materials when insulating walls.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulating the outside of a house with polystyrene foam Source makemone.ru
See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in insulating country houses.

It differs from polystyrene foam by a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the raw material is the same polystyrene granules. In some respects it is superior to its “relative”. It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), on average, thermal conductivity is 20-30% lower (Table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), vapor permeability is several times lower and compressive strength is higher. Thanks to this set of qualities, it is the best material for insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the “zero” floor. The disadvantages of EPS are the same as those of polystyrene foam, and it costs more.

EPPS is usually made “colored” Source footing.ru

Stone, also known as basalt, cotton wool

This is a subtype of mineral wool, the raw materials of which are rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured due to its fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn or smolder (flammability class NG). Refers to “breathable” materials - according to the new standard this sounds like low “breathing resistance”.

Mineral wool mats for wall insulation must be “hard” Source konveyt.ru

But there are other materials for insulating a house outside, which, although used less frequently, have their own advantages.

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many insulation materials, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and heat-insulating properties predominate.

What is the best way to perform external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

expanded polystyrene (good thermal insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
penoplex (low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature changes, but is vapor-tight, susceptible to rodents);
polyurethane foam (durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
mineral wool (an excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-flammable, durable, but during installation it emits harmful formaldehyde);
liquid thermal insulation (waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, no seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, shrinks when applied, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
glass wool (thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxic, but due to the fragility of the fibers requires additional protection);
fiberboard (thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but despite all the positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
cork material (light, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

Choice of insulation

Thermal insulation materials - new products on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are a little more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

Foamed polyurethane

A common polymer material for “household use”. Also well known as foam rubber for furniture (in the form of “soft” mats) or as polyurethane foam for sealing cracks. When insulating, it is also used in the form of slabs or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam slabs have low tear-off holding properties, so they are not used in “wet façade” systems.

But this is a common thermal insulation material for making sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating board with a decorative layer (clinker tiles or stone chips) already applied at the factory. Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second – three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels/anchors (open method) or on your own hidden fastening system.

Three-layer thermal panel Source zafasad.ru

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was only one technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).

Spraying polyurethane foam onto the base of a house Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Now in Russia, for household use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), insulating 1 m2 with your own hands is much cheaper than concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises that use professional equipment. And this option for insulating a house from the outside is quite attractive if literally 2-3 cm of the thermal insulation layer is missing.

Insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz

Ecowool

The better way to insulate a house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If you follow the regulatory documents, there are two options for how to insulate a house from the outside in terms of the number of structural and thermal insulation layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, the external paneling or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the outer (third) layer is the structural material.

Brick cladding with insulation Source pinterest.ru

In addition to this classification, there is also a division based on the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

Total: four recommended types of technical solutions for thermal protection of walls. The standards already indicate insulation options depending on the wall materials and thermal insulation:

brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
wooden houses - enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and a ventilated air gap;
frame houses with thin-sheet cladding - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with a ventilated and unventilated air gap;
cellular concrete blocks - two-layer walls with brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.

In practice, for insulating low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to the choice between a “wet” or a curtain wall. Although, it is those recommended by the standard that are considered as thermal insulation materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).

But each case has its own preferences.

Vinyl, clapboard, other types of secondary finishing

If lathing is used when installing insulation, it is convenient to create a new appearance for the facade. For this the following can be used:

natural wooden lining, which is varnished, painted, primed;
plastic vinyl panels or so-called lining of different widths, the appearance can be very diverse. The disadvantages of such a surface include low strength, but it is durable, does not fade, and is easy to clean;
Cement particle board cladding of thin thickness is widely used, which can be painted, has excellent moisture resistance, is strong and rigid.

A separate line worth mentioning is the special basement vinyl siding. These are panels of great thickness (up to 35 mm), durable and rigid. The surface imitates natural stone, brickwork, and decorative materials. Installation of such panels can transform the facade.

Vinyl house

There is also special insulating vinyl siding. It can easily serve as an additional means of protection against heat loss, since inside the panel there is a layer of polyurethane foam or other material with similar properties. In fact, this is the leader in the rating of materials, if a choice is made about how best to insulate the facade and at the same time guarantee its beauty and durability of the finish.

The better way to insulate a house from the outside, depending on the wall material

For insulating a brick house, there are no restrictions when choosing technology. Different options can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall construction with flexible ties. Even when using polystyrene foam, a ventilated air layer is provided to ventilate water vapor and prevent the wall materials from getting wet.
Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable - ceramic bricks have higher vapor permeability than foam plastic. And according to clause 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should facilitate the weathering of water vapor to prevent moisture accumulation.

Scheme of a “wet facade” Source deskgram.net

Ventilated facade. With cladding with wall panels or large-format porcelain tiles on the sheathing. The insulation is traditional for all suspended facades - mineral wool.

Scheme of a ventilated facade Source sk-optimus.com.ua
Wooden houses (logs or beams) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using curtain facade technology.

For them, you can find examples of using polystyrene foam and plaster using the “wet facade” method. In this case, a ventilated gap is created between the wall and the foam boards using spacer sheathing. Although in this case the main advantage of the “wet facade” is lost - simplicity of design and installation.

Time to complete façade work

Insulation of the façade of a house from the outside is carried out if:

All construction processes have been completed and the roof has been installed.
All work on waterproofing the foundation has been carried out.
The shrinkage processes of the building have ended.
Installation of doors, windows and ventilation systems has been completed.
There should be no excess moisture in the house; the walls need to be dry.

It is advisable to carry out façade work at an ambient temperature of +5 +25° C. It is advisable to carry out rough finishing inside the premises, carry out electrical wiring and installation of all utility networks and communications.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation

If you look through SP23-101-2004 or a similar but later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that calculating the thickness of the insulation is not so easy.

Each building is “individual”. When developing a project and approving it, such thermal calculations are made by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters are taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, length of the heating season, average number of sunny days), the type and area of glazing of the house, the thermal capacity of the floor covering, the thermal insulation of the roof and basement. Even the number of metal connections between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new standards introduced in 2003 are much stricter than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the “standard thickness” of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And here the accuracy of calculations is not needed. There is a diagram that shows the equivalent dimensions of the thickness of different materials (in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.

Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru

And then it’s simple. They take the thickness of a wall made of a certain material and see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the outside wall of the house should be added. Taking into account that a wet façade also has a layer of plaster, and a ventilated façade has an air gap, plus the interior finishing of the façade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the issue of insulating the roof, floors and choosing good windows is decided separately.

It’s even easier to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on a facade

Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finishes, removed dirt and dust, dismantled hanging elements of engineering systems, removed ebbs and canopies (you will still have to replace them with wider ones), remove signs, plates and façade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips must be repaired, crumbling areas must be cleaned, and a deep penetration primer must be applied.

Application of primer composition Source rmnt.ru

For reliable fastening of polystyrene foam or rigid mineral wool mats in a wet façade system, the wall surface must be as smooth as the unevenness can be smoothed out with an adhesive solution. If the height difference is up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with unevenness from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of “cakes” on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of slabs is mounted with emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are placed with a vertical seam shift (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of the joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the slabs do not intersect in their corners. Each slab is additionally secured with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

Before applying plaster, the surface of the slabs is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of a layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.

The density of polystyrene foam is chosen to be 25-35 kg/m3.

External insulation technology using foam plastic

To insulate the walls of a private house from the outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The procedure for foam insulation involves the sequence of work performed:

preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, priming);
applying the necessary markings;
attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for the even laying of the first row of slabs;
attach the foam by applying the adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a cross pattern;
after the glue has completely dried, secure the foam with umbrellas;
the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large, with pieces of polystyrene foam. After hardening, excess foam is cut off;
To finish slopes and corners, you should use special corners that are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

Sectional diagram of insulation

Further along the wall, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the layer of glue and leveled with a spatula . After the glue has dried, the surface is primed and covered with finishing plaster or other decorative materials.

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with polystyrene foam , since with breathable wood it is better to use porous insulation that can allow moisture and air vapor to pass through.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

Video description

Visually about mineral wool insulation in the video:

Attention. In the “wet facade” system, the insulation is installed in only one (!) layer. A vertical surface made of two layers of “soft” slabs loaded with plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be fooled by arguments that the second layer of slabs overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates “cold bridges”.

The ventilated facade uses rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after attaching them to the sheathing, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The spacing of the lathing is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the sheathing, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. The size of 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air spaces.

To ventilate the layer in the cladding, inlet openings are installed in the base area and outlet openings are installed under the roof eaves. The total area of the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of wall.

Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com