Why the machine knocks out - 5 reasons and ways to eliminate them

An electric stove is always a necessary appliance in the kitchen. Today, a fairly wide range of stoves is produced - with conventional burners, with a touch control panel and at different prices.

But sometimes it happens that the stove sooner or later, for one reason or another, begins to fail.

These reasons are due to the fragility of the slabs or their improper use.

If you find that the electric stove is knocking out , this means that you need to take it to an electric stove repair service.

Reasons for knocking out:

Quite often, the machine knocks out when you turn on the oven , or simply - a traffic jam.

Why is this happening? How to avoid breakdowns of this level?

The most basic reason lies in the physical properties of nichrome, which is used in lighting lamps and heating devices.

Thus, in order for the circuit breaker to work normally, it must be installed at 2 or 2.5 times the operating current, in contrast to the norm.

This is important because currents flow through nichrome the same number of times more while it is cold. That is why the ouzo knocks out when the stove is turned on and it is not able to work normally.

The induction cooker knocks out the circuit breaker because the wiring can no longer withstand the voltage, so the cooker simply starts to turn off and can easily burn out.

Leaving a kitchen appliance in this condition is strictly prohibited. If you do not contact our repair service on time, you will not only lose the device itself, but you may also cause a fire. And this, as you know, is dangerous for your own life.

If the machine knocks out after a while, this only means that it is trying to protect the electrical wiring so that nothing burns out. Do not try to look for the causes of knockout in a defective transformer and solve the problem yourself!

Such actions can also lead to a fire, which will be no easier to fight than simply sending your electric stove in for repair.

Our specialists will provide the highest quality repair services and you will be satisfied with the result. Our company has been on the market for a long time and our clients trust us. Therefore, by contacting us, you can be sure that we will easily fix a problem in your household appliances, even of this kind!

Possible faults

By the concept of “knocks out traffic jams,” users understand both the operation of the machine and the switching off of the RCD. The result is the same, but the electrical processes that lead to it are different.

Note! Let us explain for understanding. The RCD detects current leakage and is triggered if there is a breakdown on the housing in household appliances. The machine turns off the power when a short circuit or network overload occurs. A difavtomat is a device that combines an automatic machine and an RCD: it is triggered in both cases. In general, RCDs, automatic devices and difavtomats are automatic devices for disconnecting the power supply, or automation for short.

In tables we have collected frequent malfunctions of electric stoves, due to which the automation is triggered when turned on or while the stove is heating.

SignsBreakingRepair or replacementCost* (work only)
The electric stove knocks out plugs when heating a certain burner. The power goes out immediately when you turn it on or after some time of operation. Heating element of the burner. Most likely, the heating coil has burned out and there is a short circuit or leakage to the housing. When shorted, the machine kicks out immediately as soon as you turn on the faulty burner. In the case of a leak, the stove can work for some time, after which the RCD will trip. It is necessary to replace the heating element or the entire burner with a new one.from 800 rub.
Control module (in hobs and cookers with electronic control, including induction). Most often, the control module fails due to power surges. Depending on the nature of the damage, there may be a short circuit (in which case the stove will knock out the plugs immediately when turned on), or a leak (in this case, the power supply will turn off after some time of operation). The control module needs to be repaired or replaced.from 1900 rub.
Burner power switch (in electric stoves with mechanical control). The degree of heating of the burner is regulated using switches, which experience heavy loads during operation and, as a result, may fail during operation. Why does an electric stove blow out traffic jams? The switch needs to be replaced with a new one.from 900 rub.
When you turn on the electric stove, the RCD or automatic circuit breaker knocks out.Wiring or contacts are damaged. Exposed wiring or contacts (due to burning or oxidation) come into contact with the stove body and create current leakage into the body. The technician will inspect all wiring and contacts of the stove, including:
  • terminal block;
  • Heating elements for burners;
  • burner power switches;
  • other components (depending on model and configuration).

*Prices are indicated only for the work of the master. Spare parts needed to repair the stove are paid additionally.

Unsuitable wiring

During operation, an electric stove creates a significant load on the network, which places additional demands on the electrical wiring. We will not describe them in detail here - your electrician should know this, whom you will still have to contact to check or replace the wiring. You may need to replace all of the old wiring.

For greater reliability, we advise you to connect the stove to a separate outlet that is better protected from moisture. And under no circumstances should you use extension cords, adapters, or the like.

The machine knocks out: what are the reasons?

Now let's move directly to the question of why the machine gun knocks out in the dashboard. The machine may be triggered for the following reasons:

  • Overload in the electrical network.
  • Failure of one of the devices included in the circuit.
  • Light fixture failure.
  • The safety device is faulty.
  • Short circuit.

Any of the listed reasons can lead to the AB knocking out. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Overload

This is the name of the situation when the amount of current in the circuit exceeds the rated value for which the protective switch is designed. For better understanding, let's give an example.

To work with socket groups, AVs are mainly used, the rated current of which is 16 - 25 A. This indicator corresponds to a total power of 3.5 - 5.5 kW. Let us assume that an electric stove with a power of 3 kW, an electric kettle of 1.3 kW, and a microwave oven of 2 kW are connected to the socket group, for the protection of which a 25 A circuit breaker is installed.

If we add up the power of the listed household appliances, we get a load value of 6.3 kW. Considering that the maximum load withstood by the protective device is 5.5 kW, turning on all three devices at the same time will result in the machine being knocked out.

To avoid this, you should not take the calculation of the total load in the circuit lightly. If connecting a device to an outlet group would result in the total wattage being exceeded, it should be connected to a different circuit.

An example of incorrect wiring calculations in the video:

Do not try to solve the problem by installing a machine designed for higher power. If its rating exceeds the cross-section that the electrical wiring can withstand, problems are inevitable. In this case, the cable, under the influence of too much current, will heat up until the insulating layer melts and causes a short circuit, and in the worst case, a fire. The machine will continue to supply current to the circuit until a short circuit occurs. Therefore, if a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² is used when laying a line, the AB rating for its protection should not exceed 16 A (for an aluminum conductor) or 25 A (for a copper conductor).

Breakdown of a household appliance

If you plug in a faulty household electrical appliance, the likelihood that the machine will turn off is also quite high. Let's look at an example of how to find the device that caused the problem.

Let’s say the network in the kitchen includes an electric stove, microwave and oven. The machine in this chain was knocked out. To determine the cause of the problem, proceed as follows:

  • We disconnect all units from the network.
  • We turn on the machine. If it does not knock out without a load, the wiring and protective device are in good condition.
  • We connect household equipment one by one. If, for example, when you turn on the stove and microwave oven, the circuit works, and when you turn on the oven, the machine knocks out - the oven is faulty, and it must either be replaced or repaired

Video diagnostic example:

Some types of household units (for example, dishwashers or air conditioners) are connected to the network directly, and not through an electrical outlet. Such devices must be disconnected from the protective device installed inside the switchboard - this is the only way to check them.

Malfunction of lighting devices

Now let’s figure out why the machine knocks out when you turn on any lighting fixture. In any case, the cause is a malfunction of the latter, which may be as follows:

  • Short circuit in the lamp base. To find the faulty element, you need to unscrew them all and, screwing them in one at a time, turn on the lighting device. When, after screwing in the next light bulb and turning on the light, the AB is triggered, this means that the cause of the problem has been found. A light bulb found with a broken base must be replaced with a working one. Of course, if the only light bulb in the device burns out and the machine is knocked out, the cause of the malfunction is obvious, and there is no need to waste time searching for it.

Please note that sometimes light bulbs burn out due to a faulty switch - this may also be accompanied by the activation of a protective device.

  • Burning of the contact between the power cable and the internal wiring of the device. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to clean the contact and then properly insulate it.
  • Short circuit inside the LED chandelier transformer. If turning on such a device results in the machine being knocked out, there is a high probability that this is precisely the problem. To troubleshoot, a non-working transformer will need to be replaced with a working one.

As you can see, the reason for switching off the AV when a lighting device fails is most often a short circuit. In this case, the wiring does not have time to heat up to a critical level, so the operation is caused not by a thermal, but by an electromagnetic release.

Failure of the circuit breaker

The reason for a sudden loss of power can also be problems in the machine itself, but this happens very rarely, especially when it comes to models from well-known manufacturers. But if there is a suspicion that the protective device is faulty, it should be checked by connecting a new one that is known to be operational. You can also disconnect the circuit from this AB and connect it to the adjacent packet in the distribution panel. If these machines also work, you need to look for the problem elsewhere.

Even a seemingly serviceable machine gun can knock out. Video example:

The reason for the failure of a circuit breaker can also be its long-term operation, during which natural wear of its components occurs and their technical parameters deteriorate. This also applies to releases. As a result, the device can operate even if the conductor is slightly heated. Such an AB must be replaced.

What causes a differential circuit breaker to trip?

A differential-type circuit breaker can de-energize the network for the same reasons as a regular one (if the wiring gets very hot or a short circuit occurs). But since it contains, in addition to releases, an RCD, it also reacts to leakage current, so it is not so easy to find the reason for the operation of the automatic circuit breaker.

If such a device operates for no apparent reason, a more thorough check needs to be carried out.

Inspect the breaker, if necessary, tighten the contacts. Check the condition of the electrical wiring in the distribution board. If a phase conductor touches a grounded metal case, this may cause the differential circuit breaker to be knocked out, although it will not lead to a short circuit.

Let's assume that no faults are found in the switchboard. Consequently, there is a current leak in the protected electrical circuit. Its reasons may be the following:

  • Faulty electrical appliance. If it penetrates its body, the RCD of the difavtomat is triggered, the task of which is to prevent people from being electrocuted.
  • Short circuit between the protective grounding wire and the zero phase, which is sometimes done by inexperienced electricians.

  • Heavy thunderstorm. Powerful electrical discharges often cause the differential protective device to be knocked out. In this case, it is better not to turn on the AV until the thunderstorm subsides.
  • Worn insulating layer of old electrical wiring. In this case, electric current leaks through microcracks and triggers the machine. Since such damage is difficult to see with the naked eye, and the faulty cable does not heat up, it can be difficult to detect the problem.
  • A stuck “Test” button on the device or a damaged housing part also leads to the device triggering. In this case, the faulty device must be replaced.
  • Installation of the machine is not according to the diagram.

The differential machine must be checked from time to time by pressing the “Test” button with the load off. A working device should turn off. If it continues to work, this indicates a violation of the protective function and the need to replace the device.

Why the RCD knocks out - clearly in the video:

Wiring fault

The reasons for disconnecting the AV may be:

  • Worn cable insulation layer.
  • Poor contact in a switch or electrical outlet.

If the problem is in a switch or socket, then to fix the problem you need to open the element, clean the burnt area and connect the cable correctly. When the insulation is worn out, especially when it comes to hidden wiring, it is not easy to find the problem.

In this case, a special device will help - a locator, with which you can detect damage to the cable, even if it is hidden in the wall.

Having determined the location of the problem, you need to open it and eliminate the problem, and then seal the groove again.

Selecting a protective device

An incorrectly designed protection device can lead to disastrous results. This could be a regular shutdown of the machine or, worse, a fire in the wiring. Which will lead to a fire in the room.

When choosing the rating of a circuit breaker, they are guided by the cross-section of the wire that distributes electricity throughout the apartment or house. The material from which the conductors are made and the method of laying are taken into account.

In older buildings, electrical wiring was carried out using aluminum wires and was often laid in an open way. Currently, the use of aluminum conductors to provide electricity to houses or apartments is prohibited.

Copper conductors are used for these purposes. Existing wiring is rarely changed. Therefore, the selection of protective equipment is carried out according to the cross-section of the laid conductors.

For this:

  • Using the table, select a suitable current machine. But it must be equal to or less than the permissible current of the conductor;
  • It is recommended to distribute the workload across groups at the same time. Protect them with independent devices;
  • A general machine should have a current value greater than that of others, and the rest less. This guarantees protection against overloads.

The selection of a disconnect device must be made based on specific conditions. The safety of household appliances, the safety of people living in the house and fire safety depend on a correctly calculated and selected device.

Find out the conditions for preferential repairs and the amount of your discount

You can get acquainted with all the details of repairing your household appliances, the cost of services, as well as ongoing promotions, current discounts, and preferential offers on our main page.

Over the years, we have accumulated extensive experience in the field of repairing household appliances. MasterByt is a high quality of service provision and responsibility to our clients! Trust your equipment to professionals!

In some cases, it happens that when the electric stove is turned on, the protection on the electrical power distribution panel is immediately activated. In other words, the automatic switch is turned off. Such a nuisance can occur due to a malfunction of the electric stove itself, as well as in the event of a short circuit in the wiring itself. If you are not afraid of “communication” with electricity, then you can try to determine the breakdown yourself. If you are not an electrician, then it is best to entrust the diagnosis and subsequent repairs to a suitably qualified specialist.

Kettles and their heating elements

Electric kettles can heat water in different ways: with a disk heater or with a coil resembling a boiler. There are also a very small number of models with an induction coil, over which a kettle with a thick metal bottom is placed. The spiral is used in budget electric kettles. Scale is intensively deposited on it, which is difficult to remove due to the complex shape of the part. Disk models, found in all price segments, are much more convenient. The main advantage of induction kettles is extremely low energy consumption. True, they are quite noisy and very expensive.

Disabling the automatic lighting group

To look for damage, you first need to turn off all lights. If the machine turns on after this, then turn off the lighting fixtures one by one. On a damaged device, the machine will reset again.

Now all that remains is to determine exactly where the damage or defect is located. The lamp should be disassembled, the socket and the switch itself should be removed. If a short circuit occurs inside the lighting device itself, its causes will be clearly visible to the naked eye.


If the reason lies in the lighting group, you need to look for the reason in the lamp

If nothing is found in the lamp, the reason may only lie in the wiring - in the area from the device to the switch. Check the location of the fault using a multimeter.

When the well is turned on

When using a well pump, there are situations when, at the moment it is turned on, the machine in the panel knocks out or turns off with a certain time delay. In this case, the pump stops and does not supply water.

Experts identify several reasons:

  1. The windings in the pump motor have burned out. It's no secret that the quality of a product depends on the price. Budget models do not last long and fail after 1-2 years of operation (sometimes less). Some devices quickly burn out due to damage to the automation, for example, due to the relay wedge that controls the pressure. If damaged, it cannot turn off the pump, which runs continuously and eventually burns out.
  2. The supply cable through which voltage is supplied to the well is damaged. For example, the wire may fray, causing a short circuit. At the same time, the pump itself is operational and, after replacing the cable, continues to perform its assigned tasks. There are cases when the cable turned out to be completely defective.
  3. Water got into the block where the wires are connected (located on the well body). As a rule, the problem occurs in the spring when the snow melts.

If the machine is knocked out at the moment the well is turned on, you should not rush to replace the device. Perhaps the reason lies in something else.

Problems with external communications

When the washing machine is turned on or in the middle of the washing cycle, the machine on the switchboard or the residual current device (RCD), which many owners of washing equipment install to ensure their safety, may break out.

How to understand what knocked out the traffic jams? The light went out in the apartment, although the neighbors have it in the entrance.

Even if you have absolutely no knowledge of electricity, turn on the light

you can - you need to return the knocked out machine gun to its place.
To do this, in new
machines in the distribution panel (electricity meter), the corresponding toggle switch (pedal) is switched from the lower position to the upper one.

If the machine is old

, you need to press the white button, pressing it into the black fuse housing.

Attention!

Before turning on the electricity, you need to carefully look around to understand what happened and whether the washing machine is really to blame for the incident.

Probable causes of the accident

if the washing equipment
has not been in use for a year
:

  1. The electrical network could not withstand the excessive load
    .
    If, in addition to the washing machine, other powerful electrical appliances were working in the house (iron, vacuum cleaner, electric stove, etc.), the network could not withstand the load. Solution:
    check the condition of all working devices. Do not overload the network in the future.
  2. The cord and/or plug
    is faulty .
    If they are short-circuited, damage will be visible. Solution:
    invite an experienced washing machine repairman.
  3. There is a fault in the electrical wiring or socket
    to which the washing unit is connected.
    You can check them. Turn on the electricity and connect another electrical appliance to the outlet, as powerful as a washing machine. If the plugs fly out again, the outlet needs to be repaired. It is recommended to install sockets that are resistant to high humidity. Solution:
    invite a qualified electrician to your home.

If the washing equipment is completely new,

The causes of the problem are hidden in:

  • electrical wiring, cable,
  • residual current circuit breaker or RCD.
  • check, repair or replace wiring;
  • adjust or replace the protective device.

Attention!

It is forbidden to carry out such repairs yourself! There is a high risk of fire and electric shock! Call a professional and experienced electrician.

It is also worth checking that the connection is correct

new washing machine. When installing it yourself and neglecting the instructions for the unit, mistakes such as using extension cords (which is prohibited!) and others are often made.

When the electric stove is working properly

It is not always the case that a stove or hob is knocked out by a machine or RCD due to a breakdown. And in some cases you can solve the problem yourself. Here are typical situations.

  • The plug, cord or socket is faulty. Carefully inspect the plug, cord, and outlet. If damage is found, repair it yourself or contact an electrician.
  • Failure of a machine or RCD . It is necessary to check the electrical equipment and, if necessary, replace it with new one. If you are not comfortable with electricity yourself, call an electrician.
  • Moisture on the contacts. Often the stove begins to knock out the plugs after it has been washed or if the dish has “run away” during cooking. Due to moisture getting on the contacts (for example, the burner power switch), a short circuit occurs and the cooking machine knocks out. Do not use the stove for about a day, the moisture will dry out and the problem will disappear on its own.
  • Incorrect connection of the stove. For safety reasons, electric stoves are connected to a separate line with their own automatic or automatic switch. They can also install an additional RCD (32-40 amperes). If the line or protective equipment is not designed for the power of the stove, then when the burners are heated (at the moment of greatest electricity consumption), an overload will occur and the machine will break. Another common mistake is when, when independently installing a plate in the terminal block, phase, neutral and ground are confused.

Note! Incorrect connection of the stove can lead to its failure. Don’t take risks with your equipment – ​​seek help from a specialist if you don’t understand electricity.

How to connect to a 220 V network?

To connect the electric stove, first determine the installation location in the panel. Not far from the stove, a plug socket is mounted on the nearest partition or wall, and it is connected to ground. The current rating in the device ranges from 25 to 40 A. The three-phase outlet has 5 pins. The distribution panel for the stove provides a separate circuit breaker; a three-way switch rated at 16 A is required.

To connect, take a wire, socket and plug. Different models of household stoves are joined in a similar way, only the shape of the protective covers on the back wall differs. When connecting the stoves to a single-phase network, you need to run the cable to the socket in accordance with the selected diagram and close the top cover.

How to turn on electricity at the meter

The rules for the safe operation of electrical installations prohibit connecting the load directly to the meter without switching devices. The load is connected to the switchboard where the fuses are mounted.

The connection diagram should look like this:

  • Electricity is supplied to the house or apartment;
  • It connects directly to the meter via a machine;
  • The meter and machine are placed in a separate box and sealed;
  • A general disconnect device is installed;
  • Lines protecting lights, sockets, washing machines and appliances installed in the kitchen are suitable for it;
  • Each load must be protected by its own fuse.

In this case, the sequence of disconnecting the fuses must be observed.
Load circuit breakers should be switched off first. And the general circuit breaker should turn off all electricity, ensuring the protection of the electricity meter. Useful article? Rate and share with friends!

Delivery throughout Russia

If you want to treat yourself to stylish kitchen appliances, SMEG kettles are sure to be a source of inspiration. In the online store catalog you can find other equipment from the same manufacturer. By including a blender, planetary mixer, and toaster from the retro series in your purchase, you can create a very cozy corner in the kitchen for breakfast and dinner. Bright red or light yellow, pale blue or black appliances with a stylish logo will enliven the atmosphere.

The best part about purchasing is that you can order delivery to the specified address in any region of Russia. SMEG teapots can be a great gift for the birthday of your mother or grandmother, grandfather, or brother. It will cheer up friends or relatives who have just bought a new apartment. All purchases come with a long manufacturer's warranty.

Many colors and a unique model from Dolce & Gabbana

Models from the retro series are designed in the style of the 50s of the last century - the heyday of industrial design. A distinctive feature of these teapots is the rounded lines of the body. The models have an ergonomic handle and spout made of metal; there is also a metal edging on the base, so that the most vulnerable parts are reliably protected from abrasion.

The body of SMEG teapots is painted in one of ten colors: gold, silver, white, black, pink, light green, pale blue, light green, cream, red. And one model is a real work of art. The body of this teapot, made in collaboration with the famous design duo Dolce & Gabbana, is painted based on Sicilian motifs. Bright lemons, cherry flowers, orange, green and blue shoots on a white background look very elegant. In terms of functionality, the electric kettle is not inferior to other models in the series.

Reliable electric kettles SMEG

An electric kettle is a relatively inexpensive device, even if it is produced by a well-known manufacturer. Therefore, it is worth choosing a truly comfortable, beautiful and reliable model - these are the ones presented in the SMEG catalog. Models can have a standard volume of 1.7 liters, but there is also a compact version with only 800 ml. It is quite enough for a married couple or a person who lives separately. Small models need 1400 W, large ones have a power of 2400 W, so the water boils quickly.

The models have a relatively small set of functions: automatic shutdown when removed from the base and boiling, protection against switching on without water. SMEG kettles have a filter and water level indicator. They cannot maintain the temperature at a given level, but they are distinguished by excellent reliability and beauty. By the way, the models have a double body: the outer layer is made of beautiful plastic, the inner layer is made of stainless steel. Thanks to this, the water does not cool down longer. In addition, steel does not impart any extraneous flavors to boiling water, which will certainly appeal to lovers of good tea or herbal drinks.

RCD

The only way to determine why an RCD is triggered without special devices and professional education is an electric meter with ground and reverse indicators.

If “Ground” lights up when the RCD is triggered, this is a leak; if “Reverse” - reactivity. The main thing is not to confuse emergency indicators with optical ports of multi-tariff meters.

Checking the heating element of a washing machine with a multimeter

If you still don’t trust all these experiments and want to be 100% sure that it is the heating element that is damaged and not something else, then your only assistant is a multimeter.

How to properly check the heating element? Again, pull out the plug from the socket, and put the tester in resistance measurement mode.

A measurement scale of up to 200 ohms will be sufficient.

Apply probes to the contacts of the heating element to check its integrity and absence of breakage. In a normal situation, its resistance should be in the range from 20 to 50 Ohms.

If the device shows infinity, then the spiral is broken.

You also need to test it for a short circuit to the body. Apply one probe to the metal part of the heating element or the central bolt where the grounding is located.

And with the others, you alternately touch the phase and neutral terminals.

Any values, even several tens of kiloOhms, indicate that the heating element is broken and must be replaced.

By the way, if there is a simple break in the heating element without shorting it to the housing, the machine will not knock out.

In this case, an error may appear on the display indicating that the water is not heating.

If you do not have a display with a description of the error code, then simply touch the glass on the washer door. Warm water should warm it up a little.

What causes overload most often?

  • The refrigerator
    consumes 0.1-0.5 kVA, but at the moment of startup, the current consumption can increase by 5-7 times.
  • The current consumption of a washing machine
    is approximately the same as that of a refrigerator, incl. launcher But if it is not the current protection that has tripped, but the RCD, then the problem is most likely not in the refrigerator, but in the washing machine.

  • 50 l
    boilers 100-150 liter - 2-3 kVA. Water heaters
    are the second most common source of RCD activation.
  • on a computer and flat-screen TV
    , but an RCD may work.
  • The microwave and the air conditioner
    consistently need approximately the same amount of energy - 1-2.5 kVA, but the starting current of the air conditioner is 2-3 times higher than the operating current.
  • The standard power
    steam iron
  • The vacuum cleaner
    consumes about 1.2-1.6 kVA, but its starting power is 2-3 times higher. In some cases, during operation, power consumption may increase to the starting power.
  • A tabletop electric stove
    has the same power consumption as an iron, while a stationary stove with an oven will require 6-10 kVA.

First of all, you need to look at what was turned on at the time of knocking out and whether there was too much power. If there was, you need to turn off one of the devices. By the way, it is advisable that devices with high energy consumption be connected to different machines.

Damage to the power cord or plug

Diagnostics always starts with the electrical wire and plug. During operation, the cord is subject to mechanical stress: it is pulled, overlapped, pinched. As a result of damage, the plug and electrical outlet do not make good contact.

Check the wire for damage with a multimeter. Replacing the power cord is as follows:

  1. it is necessary to turn off the power to the washing machine and close the inlet valve;
  2. use a hose to drain the water (turning the washing machine over is strictly prohibited);
  3. Unscrew the screws located around the perimeter and remove the panel;
  4. remove the surge protector from the housing by unscrewing the screw;
  5. press the latches, remove the plastic stopper by squeezing it out;
  6. move the electrical wire inward and to the side, thereby gaining access to the filter and disconnecting it;
  7. carefully pull out the power cord from the machine;

To install a new cord, you need to perform these steps in reverse order.

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