A wall-hung toilet, like its compact brother, can also break or start leaking. This situation is not at all a sign of impending expensive repair work with the collapse of the walls in the bathroom - repairing the installation for the toilet can cost a little money. Moreover, you can always try to eliminate the problem yourself.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the methods available to independent craftsmen for troubleshooting a wall-hung toilet. We list the main causes of breakdowns and the “symptoms” indicating their occurrence. Attention was paid to both the plumbing fixtures themselves, installed on the support frame, and the fittings of the flush cistern.
We supplemented the detailed diagnostics and scrupulously outlined methods for restoring the functionality of plumbing fixtures with visual illustrations and video tutorials.
Device overview and problems
Before you begin repairing the toilet installation, familiarize yourself with the device and operating principle. A frame made of rectangular steel profiles serves as the basis for a wall bowl, drain and sewer pipes, a plastic tank with fittings, and a flush control system.
Frame installation Cersanit.
Composition of the Rapid SL Grohe installation
Filler (inlet, filling) and drain (bottom) valves are fixed inside the container, serviced through a technical window closed by a mounting box connected to the control panel brought out. Water drainage is initiated by a mechanical or pneumatic button located on the panel.
Here are possible installation malfunctions based on functional characteristics:
- Problems with the frame: distortions and movements occur due to improper installation and assembly of the frame; use of cheap profiles with low load-bearing capacity.
- Leaks at the connections of the inlet and outlet fittings of the toilet. They appear due to installation errors, frame deformation, aging, and seal defects.
- Cracks, chips of the bowl are the consequences of “crooked” assembly, accidental impacts during operation. At home, it will not be possible to reliably glue a broken one together, not to mention the aesthetics.
- Breakage of the lid microlift mechanism. When securing the seat, carefully adjust the even fit to the bowl, then tighten the nuts. A typical failure is a broken spring. The difficulty lies in the exact selection of an analogue; a mistake can lead to a sharply falling or “freezing” lid.
- Failures of cistern cistern components are the most common cases.
Fixing the problem yourself
To find the source of the problem, due to which the toilet is out of working order, you can resort to calling a plumber, calling a neighbor who helps everyone and charges inexpensively, or try to do everything yourself.
The first option is safe, but requires agreeing on the time of the work and will cost a decent amount of money. Of course, this is the most convenient and simple option - you don’t need to do anything, twist, change - you gave the money and accepted the job.
The option with a neighbor/acquaintance of friends is like a pig in a poke. Questionable quality of work can lead to even bigger problems and more serious breakdowns.
To detect the problem and fix the breakdown, you need to disassemble the installation system, getting to its insides through the inspection window
The third option involves independently studying the installation system installed in your bathroom and repairing it. This is a simple activity that does not need to be rushed. It is important to take the manufacturer's instructions and read the relevant section carefully. If the instructions are lost, you can find them on online store websites or ask a plumbing store consultant.
All controversial issues that arise during the installation repair process can be viewed in thematic video clips. Models of fittings for built-in tanks from different manufacturers may differ from each other.
If you were able to disassemble the tank fittings according to the instructions, then you need to replace the broken parts using spare parts from the repair kit
Sometimes it is enough to disassemble the fittings of the drain tank, wash the components, replace worn parts, reassemble everything again, and the system works like a well-oiled mechanism - without failures.
Abnormal operation of the tank
European companies provide a 3-5 year warranty on valves and tanks, and 10 years on load-bearing elements of wall-mounted plumbing. The practical reliability of the system directly depends on the water treatment.
Often, products of well-known brands produced by Chinese factories are of mediocre quality; failures occur after months of service. We list the typical problems:
- The container does not fill or takes longer to fill than usual.
- Constant leakage into the bowl.
- The tank does not stop filling.
- The key does not work.
- Leaking in the body and/or inlet fittings.
Let us describe the probable causes of these situations.
Slow water flow
This may be due to clogging of the supply line filter or the built-in safety mesh of the filling mechanism (if equipped). Salt deposits, rust, and dirt prevent the filler valve from fully opening, even to the point of blocking.
Filling membrane yellowed from calcium deposits.
Turn off the cold water valve in the bathroom. Unscrew the cap of the brass filter, remove the mesh element, and clean with an old toothbrush. Rinse under running water and reassemble. If, after opening the tap, the filling time has not changed, you will have to remove the filling mechanism; we will analyze the procedure in detail below.
Important! Typical brass filters are equipped with a mesh with a mesh size of 500 microns. At the same time, solid particles already 50 microns in size, getting under the cuff, violate the tightness of the valve seat. Increased water hardness over a couple of months leads to identical results.
Sufficient protection for the filling and draining mechanism is provided by a two-stage battery with polypropylene cartridges with a filtration rating of 40, 10 microns. A softening module with a replaceable cassette or filled with polyphosphate salt is suitable against scale. A coarse filter with a stainless mesh 100 - 500 microns is required.
Continuously little water flows into the bowl
As a rule, the bottom valve is “sick”, the cuff of which has lost elasticity, has defects, and does not fit tightly on the seat due to contamination. Try draining the tank several times in a row; sometimes it is possible to wash away the particles that interfered with the closure, otherwise “surgical intervention” is necessary to disassemble the unit.
It may leak due to a lowered emergency overflow tube, lifting which eliminates the problem. If the tube is at the top, move the float lower, thereby slightly reducing the filling level. More often than not, the tank overflows due to the “fault” of the fill valve not closing the supply; it requires dismantling and inspection.
Water flows continuously into the tank
The flow is not blocked even with the float in the uppermost position. The reason is that the inlet valve is clogged. At a minimum, you will have to remove the control key, mounting box, partition to get to the fittings. It is recommended to remove the entire filling mechanism for inspection, washing, and possible replacement of the gasket.
The button doesn't work
A failure of a mechanical key occurs when the connection with the drain valve is broken, for example, one of the links has become disengaged, broken off, or jammed: a pusher, a rocker arm, or drain rods. Having restored the interaction of the parts, they check the work; the stuck parts will have to be replaced. We will discuss how to remove the control button below.
Check the opening of the bottom valve by pulling up the rods.
Sometimes the pneumatic key comes off, the impulse tube is not seated tightly or is torn. If the adjusted tube dangles, cut off the stretched end section, first making sure that there is enough length, otherwise replace the hose. A faulty pneumatic unit cannot be repaired by amateurs.
Leaking housing, liners
The most dangerous phenomenon, given its hidden nature, is that flooded neighbors can report trouble. Unfortunately, the crack permanently disables the tank. Craftsmen are trying to repair the container by gluing a strip of reinforced fiber and applying an epoxy compound, but the reliability of the method is questionable.
The main guarantee of “long life” is careful installation of the frame with level control and fastening according to markings according to company drawings. The absence of distortions will protect the plastic from increased stress. Handle the hammer drill carefully so as not to inadvertently snag the housing.
Fittings begin to leak through old gaskets and loose connections. Tightening by hand is generally accepted; the wrench is used only for metal hexagons. Hardened, wrinkled O-rings are replaced with new ones. Connections with gaskets are assembled without the use of silicone!
List of traditional breakdowns
A broken toilet can throw even the most calm and good-natured person out of balance. This is not a faucet, which you can do without for a couple of days using a shower head. It will not be possible to live comfortably without a toilet, so the issue of repairs must be resolved promptly.
There is no point in thinking that an expensive wall-hung toilet with installation can last for ages without problems. Each toilet, like any other product, has its own service life. For some systems it can reach 10-12 years or more.
The service life of your plumbing fixtures can be found in the manufacturer's instructions in the warranty section. If you carefully study this document, you will see that some components have a shorter service life.
Thus, the filter and gaskets must be replaced much earlier.
Built-in plumbing with an installation system consists of the following parts:
- frame or frame;
- cistern;
- units for inlet and outlet of working fluid;
- toilet/bidet/urinal.
Breakdown is possible in every part of the installation. To eliminate the cause of the malfunction, you must first find it. This task seems impossible without major renovations. But it seems so only at first glance.
The frame or supporting frame is made of durable metals, and is covered with an anti-corrosion layer on top. This part is durable - all other elements of the system will be attached to it. It can withstand up to 600-800 kg of load.
This characteristic will differ for each manufacturer. It is important to pay attention to the maximum permissible load of the model you like before purchasing. Sometimes, wanting to save money, they buy a cheap fake, where this figure is only 100 kg.
Such a frame can easily bend or crack from overload - about 70-80 kg the weight of an adult + a water tank + the weight of the toilet itself. And if a large relative weighing more than 100 kg visits the bathroom, it’s scary to imagine what will happen. Therefore, you should not buy fakes - this is an unaffordable luxury.
All manufacturers make the installation cistern from plastic. It is flat or triangular, and inside it there are plumbing fittings to ensure automatic filling and flushing.
What can happen to the tank:
- The plastic container may break if installation errors occur. If this was a DIY installation and the installer made mistakes due to inexperience, the tank may become warped and crack over time.
- If the installation was carried out by a crooked craftsman and he was accidentally hit during installation, then after a short time a leak may occur at the place of the chip and will need to be replaced with a new container.
- The fittings installed inside the tank consist of plastic parts, rubber and silicone sealing gaskets. Often problems arise due to wear of one of the components.
The inlet and outlet units may leak. The coarse filter, installed before water enters the drain tank, becomes clogged over time. And at the junctions of all pipes, the tightness may be compromised - elastic rubber gaskets fail over time, turning into hard plastic parts.
Problems can also arise with the toilet - from a simple chip to a violation of the system for draining the working fluid into the sewer riser.
Removing Geberit tank fittings
Using the Geberit with mechanical control as an example, let's look at the sequence of the disassembly process. First, be sure to turn off the water supply to the bathroom and empty the tank by pressing the release! Then you need to:
- Remove the flush button: lightly press the panel from bottom to top to disengage. Check out the explanatory pictures on the partition.
Remove the button. - Remove the pushers: turn, pull towards you.
Pushers
Removable with a twist. - Turn the side clamps or unscrew the two screws securing the frame and remove the frame.
Rotatable side clamps.
Screw mounting option. - Remove the partition by pressing the latches.
We dismantle the partition. - Remove the rocker arm assembly.
Remove the rocker block. - Close the valve inside the tank.
We close the valve. - Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the supply hose.
Disconnect the supply hose. - Remove the filler block.
Remove the filler block. - Perform partial disassembly for cleaning and washing.
We disassemble and wash the block. - Remove the drain valve bracket by moving the upper hooks apart (the fastening design differs for different brands).
Remove the drain valve mount. - Remove the bottom valve in parts: holding the bottom of the flask, turn the upper element until the bayonet connection disengages; snap off the small flush rod and turn it to the bottom.
Bayonet connection.
Released small flush rod (white) and bracket (black).
Video instructions:
Features of Cersanit installations
Cersanit offers four collections of installation systems with a tank and fittings - AQUA, LEON, LINK PRO and VECTOR, different models of toilets, flush buttons. You can combine them yourself or choose a ready-made set.
Key features of installations:
- metal/galvanized mounting frame with a 10-year warranty;
- mechanical/pneumatic double flush button with water saving mode;
- frame width from 395 mm to 510 mm;
- flush tank volume 3/6 l;
- possibility of choosing a design with reinforcement, height and depth adjustment.
Depending on the series, the warranty on the tank, valve, and rubber elements of the system may vary. The fittings can withstand up to 10 thousand flushes.
Unit repair
Automatic filling and emptying fittings have a complex design. Home prevention includes:
- Inspection to check the integrity of connections, detect wear of moving contacting surfaces.
- Cleaning from debris, rust, limescale.
- Replacement of polymer cuffs, seals that have lost their elasticity, are deformed, or damaged.
- Replacement of worn, broken plastic elements.
The last point is difficult to achieve. Geberit, Grohe, Cersanit documentation contains article numbers for each spare part, but it is not always possible to find parts for sale. Some spare parts are supplied only in sets with others or in several pieces.
The developers of Geberit and Grohe have provided for the maintenance of fittings without the use of equipment. The supported principle allows you to remove almost any part manually; tools, on the contrary, can damage the tank equipment.
Inspection of the filling mechanism
After removing the filling unit, Geberit recommends disconnecting the valve head and flushing the seal under pressure. Additionally, use a toothbrush.
Dirty lock assembly.
Flushing
Cleaned node.
Disassembly of products from the Polish holding Cersanit is somewhat different:
- Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the union nut of the flexible connection.
Weaken - Unscrew it by hand.
Unscrew - We remove the mechanism.
We remove the mechanism. - We disassemble it into its component parts and wash it.
Let's sort it out - Disconnect the head with the lever.
Disconnect the head with the lever. - We disassemble the head and clean the holes with a needle.
Cleaning - We replace the worn silicone cylindrical gasket or rearrange it with the reverse side.
Silicone gasket.
Turning over a gasket made of damaged material is a temporary solution. The reverse side is better preserved, so the unit stops leaking, but a change in water supply pressure leads to a repeat of the situation. You should not put anything under the silicone, the effect will not last long.
Attempts to expand the control channel with a small drill do not exclude the cause of overgrowth, but they violate the design sections. Only filtration will eliminate periodic clogging.
- Reassemble in reverse order. Checking the lever stroke.
We collect - We return the valve to its place and connect it.
- We open the valve, wait for it to fill, and reset it by pulling the rod up. We control the cessation of leakage into the toilet after automatic dialing, repeat the operation several times.
We check the operation of the valve.
Masters experience:
Drain valve prevention
We remove the drain valve through the window, as described in point 4. Sometimes the rubber fixed ring of the basket passes along the joint with the bottom neck of the container. The basket is disconnected from the valve cylinder by turning the bayonet interface.
Next, clean the ring (black in the photo) and the bottom hole. The defective seal is replaced. Do the same with the drain cuff (yellowish in the picture).
Engineer's comments:
Access to communications
To get to the drain valve, take a regular spade screwdriver and remove the plastic trim that contains the button.
Next, carry out work to adjust the flush of the Crohe installation, adhering to the following algorithm:
- Carefully remove the structure using a screwdriver and being careful not to damage the fragile parts;
- Take the valve in your hands;
- Make a few turns of the adjustment mechanism, slightly changing the position of the switches;
- Put the valve back in;
- Check the flush and make sure that the volume of fluid being drained has decreased.
At the last stage, install the protective panel with the button in place and check the system again for functionality.
As a rule, there are no problems with adjusting the flushing of the installation and supplying water in the required volume. But if there are noises, unusual sounds or leaks, call our plumber. The craftsmen are well versed in the design of various toilet models and can quickly debug the functionality of any plumbing fixture. To contact the operator, dial the number on the phone or leave a request on the website.
Source
Adjusting the water level
Violation of the optimal volume of filling the installation tank leads to unstable flushing at low levels or excessive water consumption at high levels. You can easily adjust the required amount of liquid with your own hands.
By dismantling the button and partition, you gain access to the fittings. By turning the pin, the float is lowered or raised, lowering or raising the fill level accordingly.
Adjusting the float position.
It is not necessary to remove the filling block; you can rotate the pin through the opening.
The Geberit drain block is equipped with flag indicators that regulate the volume of large and small drains. Details from 2:45: , also watch the previous video from 2:25.
Vacuum systems from Grohe are equipped with an original mechanism for adjusting the volume of large and small release. The large drain is adjusted with a gate plug.
The gate (blue plate on the left) at the top is the minimum large drain.
Moving the plug to its lowest position.
Pressing the big shutter key.
Gate at the bottom - maximum large drain..
Economical drainage is regulated by moving the float along the flask. In the upper position, the minimum amount of liquid flows out, the lower position corresponds to the greatest discharge for the economy mode.
Pressing the economy shutter key, blue float at the bottom.
Largest reset in economy mode.
Moving the float up to reduce flow.
Initiation of economy mode with the float raised.
Remaining water after a small drain set to minimum.
Grohe recommendations for adjusting the Rapid SL system:
How to adjust the flush speed in a Grohe installation
Grohe wall-hung sanitary ware enjoys well-deserved popularity among users due to its first-class product quality, reliability and functionality. But not everyone knows how to adjust the flush of an installation when the drainage system of the structure is isolated behind a wall and hidden behind a protective screen. In the case of a classic toilet, you just need to open the tank, remove the valve and adjust the water flow rate. When working with overhead equipment, things are a little different, but not much more complicated.
