An electric stove is always a necessary appliance in the kitchen. Today, a fairly wide range of stoves is produced - with conventional burners, with a touch control panel and at different prices.
But sometimes it happens that the stove sooner or later, for one reason or another, begins to fail.
These reasons are due to the fragility of the slabs or their improper use.
If you find that the electric stove is knocking out , this means that you need to take it to an electric stove repair service.
Reasons for knocking out:
Quite often, the machine knocks out when you turn on the oven , or simply - a traffic jam.
Why is this happening? How to avoid breakdowns of this level?
The most basic reason lies in the physical properties of nichrome, which is used in lighting lamps and heating devices.
Thus, in order for the circuit breaker to work normally, it must be installed at 2 or 2.5 times the operating current, in contrast to the norm.
This is important because currents flow through nichrome the same number of times more while it is cold. That is why the ouzo knocks out when the stove is turned on and it is not able to work normally.
The induction cooker knocks out the circuit breaker because the wiring can no longer withstand the voltage, so the cooker simply starts to turn off and can easily burn out.
Leaving a kitchen appliance in this condition is strictly prohibited. If you do not contact our repair service on time, you will not only lose the device itself, but you may also cause a fire. And this, as you know, is dangerous for your own life.
If the machine knocks out after a while, this only means that it is trying to protect the electrical wiring so that nothing burns out. Do not try to look for the causes of knockout in a defective transformer and solve the problem yourself!
Such actions can also lead to a fire, which will be no easier to fight than simply sending your electric stove in for repair.
Our specialists will provide the highest quality repair services and you will be satisfied with the result. Our company has been on the market for a long time and our clients trust us. Therefore, by contacting us, you can be sure that we will easily fix a problem in your household appliances, even of this kind!
Possible faults
By the concept of “knocks out traffic jams,” users understand both the operation of the machine and the switching off of the RCD. The result is the same, but the electrical processes that lead to it are different.
Note! Let us explain for understanding. The RCD detects current leakage and is triggered if there is a breakdown on the housing in household appliances. The machine turns off the power when a short circuit or network overload occurs. A difavtomat is a device that combines an automatic machine and an RCD: it is triggered in both cases. In general, RCDs, automatic devices and difavtomats are automatic devices for disconnecting the power supply, or automation for short.
In tables we have collected frequent malfunctions of electric stoves, due to which the automation is triggered when turned on or while the stove is heating.
| Signs | Breaking | Repair or replacement | Cost* (work only) |
| The electric stove knocks out plugs when heating a certain burner. The power goes out immediately when you turn it on or after some time of operation. | Heating element of the burner. Most likely, the heating coil has burned out and there is a short circuit or leakage to the housing. When shorted, the machine kicks out immediately as soon as you turn on the faulty burner. In the case of a leak, the stove can work for some time, after which the RCD will trip. | It is necessary to replace the heating element or the entire burner with a new one. | from 800 rub. |
| Control module (in hobs and cookers with electronic control, including induction). Most often, the control module fails due to power surges. Depending on the nature of the damage, there may be a short circuit (in which case the stove will knock out the plugs immediately when turned on), or a leak (in this case, the power supply will turn off after some time of operation). | The control module needs to be repaired or replaced. | from 1900 rub. | |
| Burner power switch (in electric stoves with mechanical control). The degree of heating of the burner is regulated using switches, which experience heavy loads during operation and, as a result, may fail during operation. Why does an electric stove blow out traffic jams? | The switch needs to be replaced with a new one. | from 900 rub. | |
| When you turn on the electric stove, the RCD or automatic circuit breaker knocks out. | Wiring or contacts are damaged. Exposed wiring or contacts (due to burning or oxidation) come into contact with the stove body and create current leakage into the body. | The technician will inspect all wiring and contacts of the stove, including: |
- terminal block;
- Heating elements for burners;
- burner power switches;
- other components (depending on model and configuration).
*Prices are indicated only for the work of the master. Spare parts needed to repair the stove are paid additionally.
When the electric stove is working properly
It is not always the case that a stove or hob is knocked out by a machine or RCD due to a breakdown. And in some cases you can solve the problem yourself. Here are typical situations.
- The plug, cord or socket is faulty. Carefully inspect the plug, cord, and outlet. If damage is found, repair it yourself or contact an electrician.
- Failure of a machine or RCD . It is necessary to check the electrical equipment and, if necessary, replace it with new one. If you are not comfortable with electricity yourself, call an electrician.
- Moisture on the contacts. Often the stove begins to knock out the plugs after it has been washed or if the dish has “run away” during cooking. Due to moisture getting on the contacts (for example, the burner power switch), a short circuit occurs and the cooking machine knocks out. Do not use the stove for about a day, the moisture will dry out and the problem will disappear on its own.
- Incorrect connection of the stove. For safety reasons, electric stoves are connected to a separate line with their own automatic or automatic switch. They can also install an additional RCD (32-40 amperes). If the line or protective equipment is not designed for the power of the stove, then when the burners are heated (at the moment of greatest electricity consumption), an overload will occur and the machine will break. Another common mistake is when, when independently installing a plate in the terminal block, phase, neutral and ground are confused.
Note! Incorrect connection of the stove can lead to its failure. Don’t take risks with your equipment – seek help from a specialist if you don’t understand electricity.
The machine knocks out: what are the reasons?
Now let's move directly to the question of why the machine gun knocks out in the dashboard. The machine may be triggered for the following reasons:
- Overload in the electrical network.
- Failure of one of the devices included in the circuit.
- Light fixture failure.
- The safety device is faulty.
- Short circuit.
Any of the listed reasons can lead to the AB knocking out. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Overload
This is the name of the situation when the amount of current in the circuit exceeds the rated value for which the protective switch is designed. For better understanding, let's give an example.
To work with socket groups, AVs are mainly used, the rated current of which is 16 - 25 A. This indicator corresponds to a total power of 3.5 - 5.5 kW. Let us assume that an electric stove with a power of 3 kW, an electric kettle of 1.3 kW, and a microwave oven of 2 kW are connected to the socket group, for the protection of which a 25 A circuit breaker is installed.
If we add up the power of the listed household appliances, we get a load value of 6.3 kW. Considering that the maximum load withstood by the protective device is 5.5 kW, turning on all three devices at the same time will result in the machine being knocked out.
To avoid this, you should not take the calculation of the total load in the circuit lightly. If connecting a device to an outlet group would result in the total wattage being exceeded, it should be connected to a different circuit.
An example of incorrect wiring calculations in the video:
Do not try to solve the problem by installing a machine designed for higher power. If its rating exceeds the cross-section that the electrical wiring can withstand, problems are inevitable. In this case, the cable, under the influence of too much current, will heat up until the insulating layer melts and causes a short circuit, and in the worst case, a fire. The machine will continue to supply current to the circuit until a short circuit occurs. Therefore, if a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² is used when laying a line, the AB rating for its protection should not exceed 16 A (for an aluminum conductor) or 25 A (for a copper conductor).
Breakdown of a household appliance
If you plug in a faulty household electrical appliance, the likelihood that the machine will turn off is also quite high. Let's look at an example of how to find the device that caused the problem.
Let’s say the network in the kitchen includes an electric stove, microwave and oven. The machine in this chain was knocked out. To determine the cause of the problem, proceed as follows:
- We disconnect all units from the network.
- We turn on the machine. If it does not knock out without a load, the wiring and protective device are in good condition.
- We connect household equipment one by one. If, for example, when you turn on the stove and microwave oven, the circuit works, and when you turn on the oven, the machine knocks out - the oven is faulty, and it must either be replaced or repaired
Video diagnostic example:
Some types of household units (for example, dishwashers or air conditioners) are connected to the network directly, and not through an electrical outlet. Such devices must be disconnected from the protective device installed inside the switchboard - this is the only way to check them.
Malfunction of lighting devices
Now let’s figure out why the machine knocks out when you turn on any lighting fixture. In any case, the cause is a malfunction of the latter, which may be as follows:
- Short circuit in the lamp base. To find the faulty element, you need to unscrew them all and, screwing them in one at a time, turn on the lighting device. When, after screwing in the next light bulb and turning on the light, the AB is triggered, this means that the cause of the problem has been found. A light bulb found with a broken base must be replaced with a working one. Of course, if the only light bulb in the device burns out and the machine is knocked out, the cause of the malfunction is obvious, and there is no need to waste time searching for it.
Please note that sometimes light bulbs burn out due to a faulty switch - this may also be accompanied by the activation of a protective device.
- Burning of the contact between the power cable and the internal wiring of the device. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to clean the contact and then properly insulate it.
- Short circuit inside the LED chandelier transformer. If turning on such a device results in the machine being knocked out, there is a high probability that this is precisely the problem. To troubleshoot, a non-working transformer will need to be replaced with a working one.
As you can see, the reason for switching off the AV when a lighting device fails is most often a short circuit. In this case, the wiring does not have time to heat up to a critical level, so the operation is caused not by a thermal, but by an electromagnetic release.
Failure of the circuit breaker
The reason for a sudden loss of power can also be problems in the machine itself, but this happens very rarely, especially when it comes to models from well-known manufacturers. But if there is a suspicion that the protective device is faulty, it should be checked by connecting a new one that is known to be operational. You can also disconnect the circuit from this AB and connect it to the adjacent packet in the distribution panel. If these machines also work, you need to look for the problem elsewhere.
Even a seemingly serviceable machine gun can knock out. Video example:
The reason for the failure of a circuit breaker can also be its long-term operation, during which natural wear of its components occurs and their technical parameters deteriorate. This also applies to releases. As a result, the device can operate even if the conductor is slightly heated. Such an AB must be replaced.
What causes a differential circuit breaker to trip?
A differential-type circuit breaker can de-energize the network for the same reasons as a regular one (if the wiring gets very hot or a short circuit occurs). But since it contains, in addition to releases, an RCD, it also reacts to leakage current, so it is not so easy to find the reason for the operation of the automatic circuit breaker.
If such a device operates for no apparent reason, a more thorough check needs to be carried out.
Inspect the breaker, if necessary, tighten the contacts. Check the condition of the electrical wiring in the distribution board. If a phase conductor touches a grounded metal case, this may cause the differential circuit breaker to be knocked out, although it will not lead to a short circuit.
Let's assume that no faults are found in the switchboard. Consequently, there is a current leak in the protected electrical circuit. Its reasons may be the following:
- Faulty electrical appliance. If it penetrates its body, the RCD of the difavtomat is triggered, the task of which is to prevent people from being electrocuted.
- Short circuit between the protective grounding wire and the zero phase, which is sometimes done by inexperienced electricians.
- Heavy thunderstorm. Powerful electrical discharges often cause the differential protective device to be knocked out. In this case, it is better not to turn on the AV until the thunderstorm subsides.
- Worn insulating layer of old electrical wiring. In this case, electric current leaks through microcracks and triggers the machine. Since such damage is difficult to see with the naked eye, and the faulty cable does not heat up, it can be difficult to detect the problem.
- A stuck “Test” button on the device or a damaged housing part also leads to the device triggering. In this case, the faulty device must be replaced.
- Installation of the machine is not according to the diagram.
The differential machine must be checked from time to time by pressing the “Test” button with the load off. A working device should turn off. If it continues to work, this indicates a violation of the protective function and the need to replace the device.
Why the RCD knocks out - clearly in the video:
Wiring fault
The reasons for disconnecting the AV may be:
- Worn cable insulation layer.
- Poor contact in a switch or electrical outlet.
If the problem is in a switch or socket, then to fix the problem you need to open the element, clean the burnt area and connect the cable correctly. When the insulation is worn out, especially when it comes to hidden wiring, it is not easy to find the problem.
In this case, a special device will help - a locator, with which you can detect damage to the cable, even if it is hidden in the wall.
Having determined the location of the problem, you need to open it and eliminate the problem, and then seal the groove again.
Knocking out when putting electrical wiring into operation
In the case of new construction or major renovation of a home, new electrical wiring is laid and, accordingly, an electrical panel is installed with protection devices against leakage currents and short circuits.
After installing and turning on the machines, a malfunction appears. The difavtomat knocks out either immediately or after connecting the load.
In this case, a defect in the device itself is excluded, since it was checked upon purchase. The only thing you need to do is check the values of the breaking and rated current of the difavtomat.
They must correspond to the values previously calculated and indicated in the diagram. The second reason can be eliminated by replacing the load with a regular table lamp.
This is usually done on an already operating power supply system. When you turn on the electrical wiring for the first time, you need to start by checking the installation.
Checking the differential machine begins by turning on the device in test mode. If it works, it means it's working. The sequence of further actions is as follows:
- make sure the load is off;
- turn on the machine, if it is knocked out, it means that the conductors are connected incorrectly;
- make sure that the neutral wire is connected to the upper contacts marked N, and the phase wire is connected to contact L;
- check the lower contacts of the difavtomat for correct connection of the wires from the controlled line;
- try turning on the security device.
Pay attention to where the neutral wire comes from. It should go to the upper contact from the zero bus.
The neutral wire from the controlled line, coming from the distribution box, is connected to the bottom terminal. If it’s knocked out again, then you should check the connections in it itself.
Find out the conditions for preferential repairs and the amount of your discount
You can get acquainted with all the details of repairing your household appliances, the cost of services, as well as ongoing promotions, current discounts, and preferential offers on our main page.
Over the years, we have accumulated extensive experience in the field of repairing household appliances. MasterByt is a high quality of service provision and responsibility to our clients! Trust your equipment to professionals!
In some cases, it happens that when the electric stove is turned on, the protection on the electrical power distribution panel is immediately activated. In other words, the automatic switch is turned off. Such a nuisance can occur due to a malfunction of the electric stove itself, as well as in the event of a short circuit in the wiring itself. If you are not afraid of “communication” with electricity, then you can try to determine the breakdown yourself. If you are not an electrician, then it is best to entrust the diagnosis and subsequent repairs to a suitably qualified specialist.
Overload
If the automatic circuit breaker does not turn off immediately when the load is turned on, but after a few seconds or minutes, then there are clearly overload currents present, but their values are not sufficient for instantaneous operation.
Therefore, the shutdown occurs due to the operation of the thermal release. There are too many consumers on the line. This happens when several powerful devices are connected to one socket through a tee. It is necessary to remove part of the load, switch electrical equipment to other lines, if possible.
If the wiring cross-section allows, you can add the number of sockets and replace the difavtomat with a device with a higher rated current.
By the way, if the automatic device is triggered by a thermal release, it does not turn on immediately. It needs time for the bimetallic strip to cool. This is also a good sign for localizing and troubleshooting.
Disabling the automatic lighting group
To look for damage, you first need to turn off all lights. If the machine turns on after this, then turn off the lighting fixtures one by one. On a damaged device, the machine will reset again.
Now all that remains is to determine exactly where the damage or defect is located. The lamp should be disassembled, the socket and the switch itself should be removed. If a short circuit occurs inside the lighting device itself, its causes will be clearly visible to the naked eye.
If the reason lies in the lighting group, you need to look for the reason in the lamp
If nothing is found in the lamp, the reason may only lie in the wiring - in the area from the device to the switch. Check the location of the fault using a multimeter.
Checking the circuit
If the differential circuit breaker trips due to a short circuit, this is the easiest to detect. A device connected to the line as a load usually does not work. It also has fuses that are probably blown, the body may be a little smoked or the wires may be a little melted.
If there are several devices in the line, then the faulty device is turned off and the automatic machine is turned on again. At the same time, he must take control. When you turn it off again, you need to see how quickly it happened.
Problems with external communications
When the washing machine is turned on or in the middle of the washing cycle, the machine on the switchboard or the residual current device (RCD), which many owners of washing equipment install to ensure their safety, may break out.
How to understand what knocked out the traffic jams? The light went out in the apartment, although the neighbors have it in the entrance.
Even if you have absolutely no knowledge of electricity, turn on the light
you can - you need to return the knocked out machine gun to its place.
To do this, in new
machines in the distribution panel (electricity meter), the corresponding toggle switch (pedal) is switched from the lower position to the upper one.
If the machine is old
, you need to press the white button, pressing it into the black fuse housing.
Attention!
Before turning on the electricity, you need to carefully look around to understand what happened and whether the washing machine is really to blame for the incident.
Probable causes of the accident
if the washing equipment
has not been in use for a year
:
- The electrical network could not withstand the excessive load
.
If, in addition to the washing machine, other powerful electrical appliances were working in the house (iron, vacuum cleaner, electric stove, etc.), the network could not withstand the load. Solution:
check the condition of all working devices. Do not overload the network in the future. - The cord and/or plug
is faulty .
If they are short-circuited, damage will be visible. Solution:
invite an experienced washing machine repairman. - There is a fault in the electrical wiring or socket
to which the washing unit is connected.
You can check them. Turn on the electricity and connect another electrical appliance to the outlet, as powerful as a washing machine. If the plugs fly out again, the outlet needs to be repaired. It is recommended to install sockets that are resistant to high humidity. Solution:
invite a qualified electrician to your home.
If the washing equipment is completely new,
The causes of the problem are hidden in:
- electrical wiring, cable,
- residual current circuit breaker or RCD.
- check, repair or replace wiring;
- adjust or replace the protective device.
Attention!
It is forbidden to carry out such repairs yourself! There is a high risk of fire and electric shock! Call a professional and experienced electrician.
It is also worth checking that the connection is correct
new washing machine. When installing it yourself and neglecting the instructions for the unit, mistakes such as using extension cords (which is prohibited!) and others are often made.
What not to do if your stove begins to knock out the RCD
In some sources you can find advice to turn the stove plug 180 degrees, which has begun to knock out the RCD or automatic circuit breaker, or plug the stove into another outlet through an extension cord. RemBytTech specialists categorically do not recommend engaging in such “self-medication”. By such actions, you “deprive” the electrical appliance of grounding, which can lead to an electric shock when you touch the stove (the force of the impact can lead to serious injury, even death).
Do not risk your equipment and your own safety! If your stove knocks out the machine or the RCD is triggered, contact qualified help by calling:
RemBytTech technicians have extensive experience in repairing electric stoves of all brands and years of manufacture. We arrive within 24 hours after receiving the application and promptly eliminate faults in household appliances with a guarantee of up to 2 years.
Electricians identify many reasons for a machine being knocked out - faulty switch, heavy load, short circuit in the network, etc. Each situation is considered individually, taking into account the type of load, time of shutdown and circumstances of the incident.
Below we will look at the main reasons why a circuit breaker trips, and we will also look at special cases of tripping - for a washing machine, stove, light bulb, water heater and other receivers.
CONTENTS (click on the button on the right):
How to connect to a 220 V network?
To connect the electric stove, first determine the installation location in the panel. Not far from the stove, a plug socket is mounted on the nearest partition or wall, and it is connected to ground. The current rating in the device ranges from 25 to 40 A. The three-phase outlet has 5 pins. The distribution panel for the stove provides a separate circuit breaker; a three-way switch rated at 16 A is required.
To connect, take a wire, socket and plug. Different models of household stoves are joined in a similar way, only the shape of the protective covers on the back wall differs. When connecting the stoves to a single-phase network, you need to run the cable to the socket in accordance with the selected diagram and close the top cover.
Washing machine example
As an example, let’s look at cases where a washing machine turns off due to the operation of a automatic device. First of all, let's rule out a load fault.
To do this, instead of a machine, connect an iron or refrigerator to the same outlet. If the machine does not respond, then you should look for the cause of the malfunction in the washing machine.
Check whether the phase wire is shorted to the housing. It is possible that the brushes of the electric motor are worn out, and current flows through the graphite dust to the housing.
Measure the insulation resistance of the motor windings. If it drops below 7-10 kOhm, then the leakage currents are such that they can trigger the automatic circuit breaker. There is no need to go further than this, repairing a washing machine is not an easy task, it is better to call a specialist.
But the reason for the automatic switching off may not only be the load. If you put the washing machine back in place after repair, the situation may repeat itself again.
The fact is that the difavtomat, like the RCD, reacts to the total leakage current in the line: in the wires from the protection device to the load and in the machine itself. Therefore, the total leakage current with the control load and the washing machine may be such that in the first case the automatic machine will not work, and in the second it will turn off.
Assembly of custom panels
As a private craftsman, I offer services for the assembly of power and low-current panels for apartments, houses, cottages, etc. Assembly is carried out in Minsk .
The assembled electrical panel will not only provide reliable protection for your home and family, but will also be aesthetically beautiful and convenient to use throughout the entire period of its operation. Because each shield is individual and is assembled taking into account all the wishes of the customer.
A good electrical panel is:
1. Protection of electrical wiring from short circuits and overheating of wires; 2. Protecting people from electric shock; 3. Protection of electrical equipment from dangerous voltages (low and high); 4. Protection of property from fire due to poor wiring; 5. Protecting your home from the consequences of lightning strikes and impulse power surges.
Also, I collect low-current shields. A low-current shield will save you from a web of low-current wires (Internet, telephone, television, satellite, alarm, video surveillance, etc.) throughout the apartment and will allow you to create a convenient place for optical input from Beltelecom.
The panels are assembled according to the customer’s own designs and diagrams. Delivery of shields is possible throughout the Republic of Belarus and beyond its borders.
Prices for electrical installation work
First of all, I work with clients who are interested in RELIABLE and SAFE electrical wiring that lasts a long time. If our goals coincide, we will always agree on a price .
Working with a professional tool allows you to reduce the time for performing electrical work and make prices affordable for most of my clients:
The cost of work is indicated in Belarusian rubles. The price is valid for 2020.
More detailed information about the prices on which I rely can be found on the pricing page or download the current price list (from 01/01/2020)
