Where to drain the air conditioner water: standards and options for drainage for a split system

An eternal headache for installers and designers: where to drain the air conditioner water. No one is happy with the installation of a drainage box across the entire wall; neighbors below complain about water dripping from the drainage hose around the clock. Agree, this issue deserves to find a more worthy solution.

You will learn everything about the formation, collection and discharge of condensate that accompanies the operation of a household split system from the article we presented. We will tell you how best to dispose of it with minimal inconvenience for yourself and others. Let's look at recommendations for installing a drainage hose and how to remove it.

Causes of condensation and ways of discharge

Warm air from the room enters the refrigeration radiator of the heat exchanger. There, as it cools, it “gives up” all the moisture contained in it. The principle of condensation can be demonstrated with a simple example. If you take any item out of the refrigerator, it will immediately become covered with droplets of water. This is condensation.

The amount of condensation depends on humidity. The more humid the air, the more condensation will be produced. Please note that bacteria multiply much faster in dry air, which can cause respiratory illness. When the air conditioner is running, you should ventilate the room more often.

The box-shaped structure with a ball locking device can be installed in both hidden and open ways. Equipped with a replaceable cassette for replacing a dirty one. When the siphon is open, it is convenient to observe the condition of the mechanism through the plastic transparent case

Why do you need condensate drainage from an air conditioner:

1. Since condensate is predominantly water, and an air conditioner is a complex electromechanical device, their proximity can lead to a short circuit situation and premature breakdown of equipment.
2. In just one day, one air conditioner can produce 20 liters of condensed liquid. And a whole ton can easily be collected from the office center. This is a serious risk of basement flooding.
3. In stagnant water, mold, bacteria and other pathogens quickly develop.

The arguments provided are quite enough to understand how important it is to properly organize the drainage system to drain water from the air conditioner.

What is an air conditioner route?

Each split system consists of at least two modules, external and internal. The number of internal modules is determined by the power of the equipment and depends on the area of ​​the room.

All modules are connected to each other by a system of pipelines that ensure the movement of refrigerant and drainage of condensate.

The piping system connecting the indoor module to the outdoor unit, as well as the cable supply line, is called the air conditioner route

In addition to the piping, all modules are connected by a cable that provides power and control. It is this cable and pipeline connecting all the modules that is called the air conditioner route.

Health Impact Assessment

The danger of condensation lies not only in the possible flooding or breakdown of the air conditioner itself. The main threat is harm to health. There are several factors that contribute to the comfortable growth of bacteria: heat, dirt and water. What are not ideal conditions for the development of various diseases?

Black mold fungi can cause many serious diseases, including cancer. Bacteria often cause pneumonia. The mortality rate from Legionnaire's disease is very high.

If the drain hose is clogged, disconnect it and blow it out. If the system was installed correctly, without kinks, accumulated dirt should fly out from the opposite end

A disgusting smell is the least of all evils. The appearance of an unpleasant aroma clearly signals to the owner of the climate system that a major drainage cleaning is required.

Pros and cons of copper pipes

Advantages of copper pipes:

• long service life - copper pipelines can last more than 50 years;
• thanks to plasticity, it is possible to produce tubes with a small diameter - if it is necessary to use small tubes in compact products, there is no alternative to copper;
• frost resistance - when the liquid inside the pipe freezes, it will not burst;
• corrosion resistance;
• small dimensions - the tubes have very thin walls;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• UV resistance;
• low permeability to gases - when installing various systems for transporting low-pressure gases, copper products are often chosen;
• when transporting water through copper communications, the concentration of copper in the water does not exceed standard values, the water does not become harmful to human health; copper can be used in medicine and in the food industry;
• chemical inertness;
• operating temperatures up to 100°C;
• the copper walls have a very smooth surface, the pipes are practically not overgrown with deposits of calcium and magnesium salts; have low hydraulic resistance;
• easy recycling - copper can be melted down and reused many times in production;
• pipes can be bent without loss of tightness;

The main disadvantages of using copper pipelines are:

• quite high price;
• restrictions on the working pressure of pipes with large diameters; tubes of small diameters withstand pressure on a par with steel ones;
• operating temperature limitation;
• installation is somewhat more complex than installation of plastic pipelines;
• lower mechanical strength than steel and plastic; the pipe can be crushed, it can be pierced (on purpose; it’s difficult to pierce it accidentally - but there are children with playful hands in every family).

Condensate drain options

There are several options for draining air conditioners that prevent the split system from flowing into the room it treats.

Method #1: Drain to the street

A hole is drilled in a window or wall through which the hose is passed. On one side, the tube is connected to a pipe on the bath located under the evaporator, and on the other, it hangs freely onto the street.

Drainage to the street has its disadvantages:

• A hose hanging from the wall can worsen the exterior presentation of the building, which is especially important for private houses.
• Water will constantly drip from the hose, and if it gets into the low tide of the neighbors below, it can lead to a scandal.

However, due to the simplicity of the work, this method is the most common.

Method #2: Disposal down the drain

Connecting a drainage pipe to a sewer system will be an excellent option for many rooms. A traditional problem is the lack of a sewerage section in an air-conditioned room.

Solution to the problem:

1. In an air-conditioned room, drainage pipes are installed with a slope.
2. Installation of drainage pipes with a minimum slope to the nearest sewerage area.

The installer laying the air conditioner route must have experience in performing such work.

Condensate drainage into the sewer system has one significant limitation. Condensate will be drained by gravity if there is a slope of the drainage pipe of at least 3 degrees.

If it is not possible to provide the required slope along the entire length of the pipeline, a special drainage pump is used. With its help, condensate can be raised to the required height for further drainage by gravity.

How to repair a copper pipe?

How to repair air conditioner pipes if they leak? If there is a leak in the cooling pipe of the air conditioner, care must be taken to replace the damaged section. To do this, you need to decide on the size of the segment to be replaced. As mentioned above, the lines transporting liquid refrigerant differ in cross-sectional area from the lines along which the gaseous substance moves.

Cutting copper pipes must be done using a special tool - a pipe cutter

Having decided on the dimensions, you can proceed directly to cutting the damaged pipe. To do this, it is recommended to use a special cutting tool - a pipe cutter.

Let's look at the step-by-step process of cutting a damaged copper pipe using a pipe cutter:

1. First, the pipe cutter is installed on the end of the part.
2. Then you need to start rotating it. Rotation is performed slowly, counterclockwise, and as a result, the part is cut.
3. After removing the damaged section of the copper communication, it is necessary to clean the cut area from burrs. This is a very important point, since the entry of any foreign particles (copper shavings, dust, etc.) into the pipe entails disastrous consequences.

Thanks to the use of a pipe cutter, you can get a perfectly even angle, which will be 90 degrees.

Drainage pipes for draining condensate

Condensate is removed from the air conditioner through drainage pipes. Pipes used to organize the removal of condensate from an air conditioner can be made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene. Products made from these materials are highly durable and resistant to water.

Manufacturers of air conditioners complete their products with two types of tubes - corrugated and smooth. The latter are found only in budget air conditioner models and cannot be installed without special fittings.

You can use smooth pipes to organize a drainage pipeline, but only if the air conditioner is located close to the sewer. If the connection point to the sewer is far away, then installation will be greatly complicated due to the use of fittings.

If you use a drainage pipe that is too short, you will hear the wind whistling, which is especially important for residents of high-rise buildings. In winter, there will be a noticeable cold blowing from the indoor unit

Due to the high flexibility of corrugated pipes, fittings are not needed when installing a drainage pipeline. The drainage pipeline made of polymer corrugation to drain condensate from the outdoor and indoor units can be bent at any angle. The process of installing such a pipeline will not take much effort and time.

Self-production

In stores, siphons for drainage from an air conditioner cost from one and a half to two thousand rubles, and many users are thinking about making such a device themselves. Opinions on this matter are contradictory: some say unequivocally that it cannot be done - just buy it cheaper. But there is also the opposite opinion.

There are two options for homemade water seals:

Option No. 1. Without using special tools at home, you can bend a U-shaped pipe. Connect one end of it to the air conditioner, and insert the other into the sewer pipe. Such a device will pay off only when the split system is constantly in operation. But if the air conditioner is idle for a long time, the liquid will evaporate from the elbow of the device, and foul odors from the sewer pipe will fill the room.

Option No. 2. This method of making a dry water seal for wall or ceiling placement of an air conditioner. What is its essence? For such a homemade device, you will need a compensator (an ordinary plastic pipe with a narrower diameter of about 60 mm). A double-sided rubber cuff (from a washing machine) with a trimmed collar is inserted inside it.

A tennis ball is placed on top of the cuff hole. The lower part of the pipe is inserted into the sewer pipe, and a hose is inserted into the upper hole to drain condensate from the air conditioner. The principle of operation of such a dry water seal is as follows.

During operation of the split system, moisture is released from the heat exchanger, capillary tubes, radiator and other elements. Gradually, through the drip funnel of the outlet from the air conditioner drain, it flows down the outlet hose into the exposed compensator. The ball rises under the pressure of drainage fluid from the air conditioner, freeing it to drain into the sewer line. After the pressure from the condensate decreases, the ball moves into place under its own weight and tightly closes the hole.

You can watch the video for more information about making a dry water seal yourself:

Check valve for climate control system

When connected to a sewer system, water is discharged from the air conditioner through a drain hose. Installing a check valve for the air conditioner will prevent foreign odors from entering the apartment. It will allow liquid to pass through and prevent odors from penetrating in the opposite direction.

A conventional siphon equipped with a water seal has a U-shaped configuration. Water remains in the elbow, preventing sewer gases from escaping. Thus, when operating plumbing fixtures, the water in the water seal is constantly replaced, so its level does not change.

Since condensed water flows unevenly during operation of the air conditioner, the water seal may dry out and gases will freely penetrate into the room.

The way out of the situation is to install a check valve for draining the split system. Sewer drains and air will be blocked without preventing condensation. The locking mechanism is a spring membrane or an ABS ball.

When water enters the unit, the ball will rise, opening access to the sewer. After the liquid leaves, it will lower under its own weight, blocking the hole.

Main types and design features

A classic siphon can be seen under every sink located in the kitchen of our apartment. It can certainly be used to drain drainage water from the split system into the sewer, but the device is too bulky and takes up a lot of space. That is why many manufacturers of such devices have taken the path of reducing their dimensions, due to which the following types of devices have been developed:

1. The classic and simplest drain siphon for air conditioner condensate has a U shape. The elbow connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of this device plays the role of a water seal. The device is easy to install and maintain, but has several serious drawbacks: the water in the elbow can evaporate if the air conditioning equipment is not used regularly, and unpleasant odors can enter the room. The second disadvantage is that such a drainage unit takes up a lot of space. As a rule, it is installed in specially prepared wall niches, covered with decorative panels.
2. Siphon for air conditioner drainage with a water seal and a mechanical ball valve that prevents odors from the sewer system from entering the room. This type of device can be used for both external installation and internal (built into the wall) location. The ball valve opens due to the pressure of drainage water on it. When the flow decreases, the valve closes the outlet to the sewerage system, preventing the movement of fecal water in the opposite direction.

   A special feature of such units is the presence of a dirt collector in their design. The ball valve prevents the movement of water and unpleasant odors.

3. For hidden installation (wall installation), box-shaped models with a ball float valve as a locking mechanism are most often used. The ball valve floats up when condensate enters the device, allowing water to pass freely into the sewer.

When water circulation in the device stops, the float, under its weight, blocks the drainage channel, creating a barrier to the penetration of odors from the sewer system. The float siphon for air conditioning, with its small dimensions, completely replaces the standard U-shaped drainage device. The box-type drainage units have a replaceable cassette, which, if dirty, can be changed or cleaned independently. The cassette is made of transparent plastic, which makes it possible to control its degree of contamination.

How to choose a siphon?

Siphons designed to drain condensate have design differences.

When choosing, the following criteria should be taken into account:

1. Assess the available space for installing the device. The dimensions of the selected model may simply not fit in the available space.
2. Outlet pipe diameter. The siphon inlet and drainage hose dimensions must be the same.
3. The tightness of the connection is ensured thanks to rubber seals. When installing the siphon in direct sunlight, they will quickly become unusable. In some cases, you will have to perform hidden installation.

The amount of condensate must correspond to the throughput of the unit. All necessary information is indicated in the device characteristics. If the air conditioner produces a large amount of condensation, you will need a high-capacity siphon.

In some cases, the drainage drain is installed above the level of the sump of the air conditioner itself, for example, if the air conditioner is located in a basement or basement. Installing a drainage pump will help raise the water to the required height

When choosing a built-in siphon, the depth of the niche for its installation is taken into account.

Production

Copper is a very ductile material, and copper pipes are made without welding.

Industrial methods for the production of seamless pipes: drawing, rolling, pressing, combined methods. Very rarely, thick-walled products are produced by welding. In practice, rolling and drawing are most often used.

Large-sized products are produced in several stages with intermediate heat treatment. After manufacturing, the pipes are necessarily annealed (heated, held for a certain time and cooled together with the furnace). After annealing, the structural stresses that appeared as a result of manufacturing disappear in the metal.

Tubes of small diameters are sometimes not annealed - the plasticity of copper allows the use of products without annealing.

Installation of drainage system

First, you will have to draw up a layout diagram for each element of the drainage system.

It includes:

• clamps and fasteners;
• drainage tube;
• seals and adapters;
• siphon (if it is impossible to bend the drainage tube);
• sewage pipe.

It is necessary to organize in advance a slight slope of the sewer pipe connected to the sewer itself. Installing a siphon will create a water seal that prevents the access of gases from the sewer.

Since the air conditioner only works in hot weather, a possible solution would be to install a check valve between the equipment and the sewer. It will be effective at any time of the year. Even if the water in the water seal dries out, there will be no foreign odors.

There are times when it is impossible to organize a gravity system. The solution is to use special containers in which condensate accumulates. As accumulation occurs, the container spontaneously releases or is emptied using a pump.

To operate the drainage pump, you will need an electrical connection. In this case, you can do without installing a check valve. The pipe from the air conditioner enters the container without a direct connection to the sewer.

If the air conditioner starts to operate noisily after disassembly and reassembly, you need to check the fastening of the external unit. Due to loose fasteners, the block may fall over time.

When installing air conditioner drainage with outlet to the sewer, you should organize a horizontal section of the system and connect it to the pipe coming from the receiving bath. If the distances are too large, you will have to make holes in the walls for the pipeline.

A large number of turns can cause blockages. A short pipeline is easier to maintain and clean.

How to properly get rid of condensation

1. The most common and cost-effective, but not the best or most correct, method is to simply lead the drain pipe out of the window through a hole in the wall. The advantages are obvious - drill a hole, lay a hose and you're done. The negative aspects are the effect of “raindrops” that drum on the window sills, and the higher the height, the louder the knocking. Such a decision is fraught with a showdown with an angry neighbor who is being disturbed by your “drum set” from sleeping. The aesthetic side of the implementation should also be noted as a disadvantage - pipes hanging on the wall do not add beauty to the interior of the room at all.
   On a note. Modern editions of SNiP and SanPiN prohibit drainage through the wall. It is also prohibited to crash into a storm drain - during heavy rainfall, the pressure in the storm drain will be so strong that the reverse flow of water from the drain will flood the room. This happens when the LC cannot cope with the flow of rain and is completely filled along its entire length - then the pressure in it reaches its maximum value.

2. It would be much more efficient to drain the condensate from the air conditioner into the sewer.
   This option solves the disadvantages of the first method - waste from the unit is discharged into a network specially designed for this purpose. This can be either the general sewer system of the building or a specially laid pipeline network. The drainage of wastewater is carried out either by gravity, due to the negative slope of the pipes, or using a pump.

   It is worth paying attention to some nuances when discharging into the general sewer system:

   To prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the pipe into the room, it is necessary to install a water seal - a part of the drainage pipe curved in the shape of the English letter S. The water that will remain in the lower leg will create an insurmountable barrier to the “aromas from below.”

3. If gravity flow is used, be sure to calculate the minimum required diameter and slope of the system so that all condensate flows freely through it.

There are split systems that use part of the condensed moisture to maintain the balance of air humidity by evaporating the liquid in the heater. It should not be forgotten that preventive maintenance of the drainage system should be carried out at least once every three months. Even if the air conditioner did not work during this entire period, nothing prevented dirt from accumulating and pathogenic organisms developing in all its nooks and crannies.

Drain circuit maintenance

After installing the condensate drainage system, it is necessary to take care of its functional condition. There are many malfunctions that arise during operation and require immediate attention.

Problem. Most often, the hole through which moisture is discharged into the drainage tube becomes clogged. The reason is dust and dirt accumulating in the hole. Debris settles and clogs the tube. The bath fills with liquid and it begins to flow along the walls onto the floor.

Solution. To avoid unpleasant consequences, you should regularly clean and rinse the tube. For washing, detergents that contain chlorine are suitable, since it copes with the task as effectively as possible.

Problem. If the pressure regulator malfunctions, ice build-up may appear on the evaporator. The reason for this is a decrease in the temperature outside, and as a result, the temperature of freon.

Solution. To prevent malfunctions, you should regularly perform technical inspections of the condensate drainage routes from the split system.

Problem. If the air conditioner is turned on for heating in winter, the moisture removal tube will quickly freeze, which will cause a breakdown.

Solution. When the temperature outside is below freezing, the split system should be turned off. You can buy a low-temperature kit designed to heat the compressor and drain tube. In this case, the air conditioner will be able to operate even at a temperature of -25 degrees.

Problem. Excess or lack of refrigerant can cause icing of the tubes and evaporator. The ice will melt and drip onto the floor.

Solution. Remember to monitor the refrigerant level. Contact the service center for refueling in a timely manner.

Problem. If the pump breaks down, the drainage system fails.

Solution. It is better to purchase equipment from official suppliers and install it responsibly.

Problem. An incorrect angle of inclination of the drainage tube will cause water stagnation. In the future it will drip onto the floor.

Solution. Follow the recommendations for creating a slope at the installation stage.

Basic air conditioner malfunctions

One of the most common malfunctions of any air conditioner is its leakage. This defect most often occurs due to clogging of its drainage system. In this case, the hole in the pan, intended for draining condensate, becomes clogged with dust and debris brought by the water flowing into it. As a result, the pan overflows and water begins to flow out, bypassing the drainage system.

Disruption of the drainage system also occurs for other reasons:

• If there is insufficient refrigerant in the system, the temperature of the heat exchanger decreases, which leads to the appearance of ice on its surface. The flowing water does not fall into the pan, but flows out onto the floor of the room.
• If the air conditioner does not have a pressure regulator or is faulty, when the outside air temperature drops, the pressure in the system drops. At the same time, the temperature of the refrigerant in the evaporator also decreases and icing occurs.
• When using the air conditioner in the cold season, the outlet of the drain pipe may freeze, which will cause the drain pan to overflow with water.
• Errors when installing the drainage system: lack of slope when laying the pipeline, “dry” water seal, poor-quality drainage pipes, depressurization of connections, “pseudo-siphon” device, etc.
• Failure of the drainage pump or clogging of its float chamber, causing the pump to stop working.

If problems arise related to a drop in refrigerant level, a decrease in pressure, failure of the drain pump and other malfunctions, the right solution would be to contact a specialized service center. Their qualified specialists will quickly and efficiently eliminate faults.

Checking the drain when there is no condensation

If condensation does not drain from the drainage tube, and there is no desire to wait for water to flow out of the indoor unit, you can diagnose the drainage system yourself.

Work to find the problem is carried out in the following order:

1. The air conditioner is disconnected from the power supply, the plug is removed from the socket.
2. Remove the top panel from the air conditioner. It is held on by latches. Remove with a slight upward movement.
3. Open the housing on the indoor unit. It is secured either with latches or screws.
4. After removing the cover, you have access to the tray under the radiator - this is where condensation collects.
5. Pour a glass of water into a container to collect condensate and see if it comes out on the other side of the drainage channel. If water still does not appear, it means the drainage line is clogged.

The drain hose may be squashed or incorrectly positioned. As a result, the liquid cannot rise to exit freely.

If small children, allergy sufferers, or elderly people live in the house, the indoor air conditioner unit and drainage system should be treated with a disinfectant every year. This way you can reduce the likelihood of colds and allergies

This makes it easy to check drainage by gravity. If a pump is installed to pump water out of the tray, this method of checking the drainage route will not work.

Regulatory Requirements

Technical requirements for copper pipes are determined by GOST 617-2006.

Copper pipes are manufactured with diameters from 3 to 360 mm, wall thickness from 0.05 mm to 10 mm. For unannealed pipes, the working pressure ranges from 4 to 15 MPa (for diameters of 54 mm and 10 mm, respectively). For annealed pipes - from 6 to 11.5 mm (for diameters 54 mm and 3.1 mm). The permissible operating pressure decreases with increasing diameter.

For the production of pipes, refined M1 copper is used; M1f; M1p; M2; M3; M3p; Cu-DHP, Cu-DLP, Cu-FRTP.

The table shows the maximum operating pressure of copper pipes depending on the diameter and wall thickness:

Water drainage standards

There are standards for draining water from the SanPiN air conditioner that prohibit the drainage of condensate to the street. It is recommended to discharge condensate directly into the sewer system. In this way, you can avoid unwanted consequences from moisture settling on the air conditioner evaporator.

It is highly not recommended to remove moisture into the stormwater system. The reason lies in the unstable operation of the storm drain. When there is heavy rain, high pressure builds up there. Water can easily rise through the drainage pipes and damage the air conditioner, flooding the living space

The frequency of maintenance of the air conditioner drainage depends on the correct installation of the condensate drainage system. Use more expensive tubing that does not change internal shape when bent. This way you can build a reliable system with unhindered movement of condensate to the outlet.

Thermal insulation of the system after replacing pipes

Since replacing air conditioner pipes requires complete disassembly of the equipment structure, after completing the work, exposed pipes and other material must be hidden so that they are not noticeable and are protected from adverse environmental influences.

In addition, the holes made in the wall for laying the main must be insulated. The main thing is to achieve thermal insulation of at least 95%. Only fittings, bends of oil traps and other more complex areas of the structure will remain uninsulated.

The copper tubes through which the refrigerant will be supplied must be thermally insulated along their entire length. The material for thermal insulation of pipes is produced in tubular form. The length of the material is 2 meters. Therefore, thermal insulation is simply put on the copper pipe. At the joints, the material is glued together with non-acid silicone sealant. Vinyl tape is also used to secure the thermal insulation.

All quality work is reflected in the performance of the device, therefore, during installation and replacement of pipes, specialists try to leave as few thermal insulation seams as possible. In addition to the fact that it will retain the heat of the pipes, it will prevent the possibility of mechanical damage.

Replacing an air conditioner drain pipe is no different from replacing a copper pipe. The main thing that needs to be taken into account when replacing pipes is the timely disconnection of the pipes and draining of the working fluid. It is important to work with freon carefully, as it can negatively affect the skin if not used carefully. In general, replacing pipes is completely similar to laying a main line when installing a structure.

Today, another, new type of material, “chrome-plated furniture” pipe, is used for the air conditioning system. This material is particularly durable and very effective. The disadvantage of this material is that in case of any mechanical damage, the material requires re-chrome plating.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The following video will introduce you to the features of the system for draining condensed water during operation of the air conditioner:

When installing climate control equipment, it is necessary to take into account the features of the air conditioner drainage system. If the split system pipes were laid correctly and a water seal was installed, the operation of the unit will not cause inconvenience to anyone. It is better to decide where to dispose of condensate at the stage of designing the route and locating the blocks.

Would you like to talk about your own experience in organizing drainage for climate control equipment? Do you have information about an interesting and practical solution to a problem? Please leave comments in the block form below, ask questions, share your impressions and photos on the topic of the article.

Features of operation

When operating, the air conditioner drain pump does not make much noise. Her work is neither heard nor seen by humans. The only manifestation may be a small stream of water on the outer contour of the device. At the same time, the noise level from the pump is easily drowned out by the operation of the entire air conditioning system.

In peristaltic systems, work is characterized by special silence. They don't make any sound. Rather, you can hear the sound of flowing water.

Drain pumps for air conditioners, like any equipment of this type, are characterized by a long service life. In this regard, if the manufacturer has a good reputation in the market, which he values, he will only have to buy a drainage pump for the air conditioner once.

What you need for self-installation

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, since the work only lasts 3 hours, they answer that the equipment is very expensive and its depreciation makes up a significant portion of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many teams do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, and a bad one is of no use.

During installation, it is important to ensure that the blocks are installed horizontally. This requires a good construction level

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands you will need the following equipment:

• A hammer drill to make a hole in the outer wall into which communications are laid connecting the indoor and outdoor units.
• Drill for installing fasteners with a set of drills of different diameters.
• A pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes and a rimmer for removing burrs (you can get by with a file/nut file and sandpaper).
• Flaring machine for copper pipes.

  
  Pipe flaring device

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to get one and on routes up to 6 meters they do without it.

Materials

To connect and install two split system units you will need the following consumables:

• Cable for connecting power and connecting blocks. The brand and parameters of the cable depend on the manufacturer and are usually indicated in the passport in the installation instructions. Typically this is a 4-core cable with a cross-section of 2 mm2 or 2.5 mm2. The cable length is equal to the length of the route with a small margin.
• Copper thick-walled seamless pipes (not water pipes, but special ones for cooling and air conditioning systems). Pipes will need two diameters - larger and smaller. Specific numbers will be indicated in the manual, the length of each segment is equal to the length of the route plus 20-30 cm for reserve. Once again, please note that copper pipes are not for water supply, but for the refrigeration industry. They contain a different type of copper - softer, which will flare well and can provide the required tightness. Copper tubes must be transported and stored with capped edges to prevent dust from getting into them. It is very important.

  
  Copper pipes need special, thick-walled, seamless soft copper pipes

• Insulation for pipes made of technical rubber. Available in dark gray or black. The color does not affect the quality; it is supplied in two-meter lengths. The required length is equal to the length of the route. You need insulation for both pipe diameters - larger and smaller.
• Drainage tube. Experts advise installing a special corrugated hose with a plastic spiral inside. When installing it yourself, it is often replaced with a polypropylene pipe. The length of the drainage tube is the length of the route plus 80 cm.
• Two L-shaped brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. Their size must correspond to the dimensions of the block, and the load-bearing capacity must exceed its weight by 4-5 times. This reserve is necessary to compensate for wind and snow loads. It is advisable to buy them from companies that sell components for air conditioners. Regular brackets may not be reliable.

  
  Brackets for air conditioners must withstand a heavy load - 3-4 times the weight of the outdoor unit

• Bolts, anchors, dowels. The type, dimensions and quantity depend on the type of brackets and mounting plate for the indoor unit, as well as the type of walls on which the air conditioner is mounted.
• Plastic box 60*80 cm - so that the laid communications can be covered.

That's all you need to install the air conditioner yourself.

Results

Installing an air conditioner is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. Installation is time-consuming and requires the installer not only to have tools, but also certain knowledge. However, even before installation, it is important to choose the right components so that all the work does not go down the drain.

Today we shared our opinion about copper pipes. About their advantages and disadvantages, features of selection and installation. There are always disputes between installers and home craftsmen about components. In this article, we told you which copper pipes fall under our quality criteria and how to install them correctly.

Still have questions? Ask them in the comments below. Also read other articles on our website and share them on your social networks. Good luck!

How to disassemble and wash the indoor unit

The cleaning process is proposed to be considered using the example of a Korean Daewoo split with a power of 18 kBTU or 5.3 kW. What you will need for work:

• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• alkaline-based cleaner Carlyclean or similar in a container with a hand sprayer;
• a special polyethylene cover with a water drain, made to fit the dimensions of the indoor unit;
• latex gloves;
• another hand-held sprayer to rinse off the cleaner.

Location of fastening screws
To thoroughly clean and disinfect all parts of the internal module, you need to disassemble it in the following order:

1. Unplug the air conditioner, remove the filters and wash them. Remove the plastic blinds by carefully bending the ends out of their slots.
2. Unscrew all screws located on the front panel. They hold the electrical compartment cover, the panel itself and the condensate tray. Some of them are located under decorative plugs.
3. Pull the front panel towards you and tilt it up to disengage the 4 top latches. Do not remove it until you have disconnected the LCD connector located on the right side.
4. Mark with a marker the position of the servos that rotate the blinds, then unscrew and remove them. Release the retainer of the condensate tray (held by its left end) and disconnect the drainage tube. After this, the element can be easily dismantled.
5. Pull out the temperature sensor inserted between the evaporator fins and bend it towards the electronic unit. Protect the latter from water with a plastic bag, as shown in the photo above.

Cover with drain prevents wallpaper from splashing

If you are servicing your home air conditioner for the first time, the disassembly procedure will take approximately 1.5-2 hours. This gives you access to the fan turbine and the cavity behind it, which also needs to be cleaned. Then everything is simple: pull the cover over the module, sliding its edges between the wall and the body, then start cleaning the “split”:

1. Wear rubber gloves and thoroughly apply cleaning fluid to the heat exchanger, fan drum and internal cavities. At the same time, rotate the turbine with your free hand.
2. After 5-10 minutes, take a water sprayer and wash off the product along with the dirt. You need to spray until clean water runs out of the block.
3. Wait until all the water has drained out of the indoor unit, then remove the cover and let the unit dry.
4. Wash the removed panel, bath and filters and dry them. At the same time, try not to wet the foam seals. After drying, the air conditioner can be assembled.

This is what the turbine and heat exchanger look like after flushing

Watch this video on YouTube

Main causes of breakdowns

The indoor unit filter is clogged. This problem leads to disruption of normal air flow, resulting in loss of power. If the system has threaded connections, this may cause refrigerant leakage. In turn, this will lead to overheating and further breakdown of the compressor.

The heat exchanger of your device's indoor unit is clogged. This can happen due to the ingress of poplar fluff, as well as coarse dust, into the heat exchanger. In this regard, heat exchange is significantly disrupted. In this situation, this will lead to a disruption in the operation of the compressor and its further breakdown.

Freon leaked. There are two types of leakage of this substance - normalized and non-standardized. In the first case, you cannot influence the leakage process. It occurs in all devices without exception. In the second case, during poor-quality installation of equipment, gas can leak out in a very short time (a couple of days or months). Fortunately, this is not fatal to those around you, but it can significantly hit your budget. To fill the system with this gas, you need to call a specialist. And so, with proper installation of the air conditioner, gas is refilled every couple of years.

Selecting a location

Installing an air conditioner yourself begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a location for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how the cold air will spread in the house or apartment, and also take into account the technical requirements.

Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers at least 20-30 cm);
• to the side wall - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

Common options for installing air conditioners
The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on an open balcony, if there is one. On a glazed balcony/loggia, it can be installed on a fence (if it has sufficient load-bearing capacity) or nearby on the wall. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to place the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. On higher floors it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If you plan to install an air conditioner yourself in a private house, the location is usually selected based on the load-bearing capacity of the walls. If you have a ventilated façade, you can use a special fastening or hang the block on a plinth, if there is one.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is standardized. Specific numbers depend on the manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m (different Daikin models) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). Some manufacturers do not regulate the minimum length, that is, it can be anything. In this case, you can install the blocks back to back. Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins with choosing its location

The situation with the maximum distance between two blocks is a little simpler. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refilling of the system with freon will be required, and this is an additional expense, and a considerable one. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

How to clean an air conditioner at home

How to clean your air conditioner yourself at home? - Many people ask this question. In fact, this is not difficult to do at home. You can do this yourself no worse than a real master if you follow our recommendations. Plus, you'll save quite a lot of money!

It is not difficult to clean the air conditioner in an apartment or private house yourself. This does not require special tools or consumables. Just read this post and get started.

How often should you clean your air conditioner?

Experts recommend cleaning the indoor and outdoor units of the air conditioner twice a year - before summer and after the end of the season. If you use a split system for heating, you will need to clean it before and after cold weather.

It is also worth cleaning the air conditioner if the following symptoms appear:

• The blowing speed has decreased;
• The air conditioner has become noisy or extraneous sounds have appeared;
• There was a bad smell in the room;
• Water is dripping from the indoor unit;
• The device became worse at cooling or heating.

If the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is located at a level of 10 meters (4th floor) or lower from the ground, it must be cleaned once every 2-3 months throughout the season. At low altitudes, it quickly becomes clogged with dust, insects, and leaves.

It is enough to clean the outdoor unit at a height of up to 25 meters (11-12th floor) once every two years. It is well blown by the wind, and pollution does not accumulate in it as much.

If the outdoor unit is installed above 25 meters, it is enough to clean it once every 5 years. But only on condition that the air conditioner operates normally, does not consume a lot of electricity and produces enough cold or heat.

7 dangers of a dirty air conditioner

1. Dust accumulates on the radiators of the indoor and outdoor units, forming a kind of “fur coat”. Because of it, the heat exchange between freon and air deteriorates. This causes the compressor to wear out quickly and the air conditioner to no longer heat or cool effectively.
2. When the radiators are dirty, the air conditioning compressor starts to turn on more often to ensure the desired temperature. You may not notice it, but it works hard. But this is the most expensive and important part of any climate control equipment!
3. The main energy consumption is for the compressor.
   The more often it turns on, the more you have to pay. Hence the conclusion - the cleaner the air conditioner, the more economical it is.
4. Dust and particles of pollution clog the filters and impede air access. At first, the air conditioner just starts blowing weakly. You, of course, increase the blowing power and everything seems to be fine. But at the same time, electricity consumption increases, and fan motors work to the limit.
5. Condensation constantly forms in the indoor unit, which accumulates in the form of drops on the parts. When the air conditioner is turned off (for example, at night or while you are at work), the room temperature rises. And water and warmth are the best environment for fungus and mold. They, in turn, cause bad smell in the room.
6. In addition to fungal microflora, microorganisms feel quite confident in the air conditioner. They establish entire colonies there and multiply, and when the fan is turned on, the air flow carries them throughout the room. And many of these microbes are disease-causing. Because of them, asthma can worsen, allergies, and various skin diseases can occur.
7. Dust tends to get into small crevices and impede the operation of air conditioning mechanisms. This leads to the appearance of extraneous sounds - the fans begin to creak or crackle, the plastic case begins to rustle.

Step-by-step instructions for cleaning the indoor unit

In order to clean the indoor unit of the air conditioner you will need:

• Vacuum cleaner;
• Basin with water;
• Dish detergent;
• Container with clean water;
• Soft rags (preferably lint-free);
• Toothbrush (or any other);
• Soft brush (painting brush will do);
• Crosshead screwdriver;
• Thin rope, wire or easily bendable wire (40-50 cm).

Disassembling the indoor unit

Be sure to unplug the air conditioner! Open the indoor unit of the air conditioner. To do this, press on the plastic clips that are located on its side walls (see photo). Take out the mesh filter.