Do-it-yourself spacer rod for a laser level

The simplest options for a homemade laser level from scrap materials

Bubble level level

To make it you will need a building level and a laser pointer. A pointer is attached to the bubble level, onto which a clip is placed to secure the button. You can use a camera tripod as a tripod for a laser level. The level is set strictly to the horizon, then the tripod is adjusted.

When rotating the building level, the air bubble should always remain in the upper position. After which you can mark the horizon from any laser point on the wall.

DIY hanging bar from a laser pointer

A block is used as a base, preferably made of heavy wood. A hole for the laser pointer is drilled at one end; this will be the lower part of the device. The upper part of the bar is suspended from any device. A correctly centered level, when rotated, draws a horizontal plane on the walls.

Float-based level

This is the simplest version of a laser level, made in haste. Water is poured into a wide container (bowl or deep plate), almost to the brim. A piece of foam plastic with a laser pointer fixed horizontally is placed on top. When rotating the foam, the laser beam will always be at the same level.

These level indicators are suitable for simple work. For example, when building a fence or digging a pit for a swimming pool. If you are renovating an apartment, you will need a more precise tool.

Selecting components

Now let’s finally decide which parts of the level’s design you should pay special attention to:

The rotation unit is integral with the base of the emitting head.
Support with independent vertical installation.
The emitting head is a laser pointer.
2-axis level for precise installation of the leveling unit.

Rotation unit

This leveling module is easiest to make using sliding friction from slab materials manufactured with a surface evenness of at least 0.5 mm/m. An additional condition is that the material, without losing its properties, must be amenable to processing with hand tools and subsequently withstand operating conditions. Based on the results of the selection (there is no room to dwell on the details here), the following are suitable, in descending order of degree of suitability:

Postforming is a thick, high-density fiberboard used to make countertops for kitchen sinks and the like. The evenness of the surface of postforming slabs of 0.25 mm/m is not uncommon. Postforming is wear-resistant, does not warp from splashes and dust; In order for it to swell, it must be soaked thoroughly and not allowed to dry for a long time.
Furniture laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16-24 mm. Forming accuracy is no worse than 0.5 mm/m. Evenness is not lost from splashes and dust, but in terms of wear resistance, the material in the level will last 3-5 seasons. Excessive moisture without immediate wiping and drying causes irreversible warping. Blanks for the device parts (see below) must be cut with an indentation of at least 5 cm from the edge of the board, because slabs of edged furniture laminated chipboard have a sheer edge across the layers of up to 1 mm.
Laminated MDF with a thickness of 12 mm. Surface evenness approx. 0.5 mm/m. In terms of wear resistance, MDF of at least class 33 is suitable for a level (the first number in the designation characterizes mechanical strength; the second – wear resistance). With slight moisture it swells irreversibly.

Note: other fibrous and layered materials (plywood, including birch plywood, OSB, laminated plastics, e.g. textolite) are not suitable for evenness and/or operational durability.

L, M and H

Pressed wood fiber boards (fiberboards) are available in 3 types. Their basis is fibrous lignin isolated from ground wood pulp; as a rule, from wood processing waste. The properties and cost of the material are determined by the quality of the raw material (degree of lignin purification), temperature and pressure during its pressing.

Low Density Fiberboard (LDF) is a well-known fiberboard used to make backings for cabinet furniture, etc. Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) is also a well-known substitute for MDF commercial wood. But High Density Fiberboard (HDF) is postforming. This material is called so because it is supplied to product manufacturers not as finished slabs, but in the form of a loose mass, which is pressed into tabletops, etc. The reason is that lignin is of high purity, every crumb is protected, and it was better to waste some of the material when cutting slabs would be unprofitable.

Support

Photo/video tripod, suitable for use as a support for a homemade level

The best option for an independently adjustable level support is a tripod for photo and video cameras. It can also be useful in many other cases, even if you never shoot anything on camera.

Don’t look for an old Soviet tripod on the cheap - the ones that went on sale are outright rubbish. But a modern photo-video tripod device is not that expensive and the price fits into the conditions specified at the beginning.

Any modern photo and video tripod is stable enough to withstand construction site conditions. When choosing, pay attention that (see figure on the right), firstly, the tripod is equipped with its own 2-coordinate level - it is on this level that the support is installed vertically on an unprepared surface. Secondly, adjustment and use of the level will be greatly facilitated by at least a rough degree scale; both are shown by arrows in Fig. And then look at the price, which one suits you.

Leveling pan?

In RuNet you can find instructions: they say, fill a saucepan or basin with water to the top, let a piece of foam float there, put a laser on it - and level it out for your health. Sorry, this is an absurd invention.

Firstly, the entire floating craft will float on the water without heeling only if the projections of the center of buoyancy of the float (CB) and the general center of gravity of the device (CG) coincide. This is theoretically possible; practically impossible. Can you imagine a ship with empty holds and cargo piled high on the deck? Container ships take cargo on deck only when the hold is full, and even then they are the most dangerous of ships.

Secondly, the container with water is not the sea or even a pond or puddle after rain. The float with the laser is already tilted by the forces of surface tension of the water in the vessel. The tilt of a float with a diameter of 10 cm of 0.5 mm is invisible to the eye, but the marking error will be more than 5 mm/mm. What kind of leveling is there...

Pointer

Have you ever had to disassemble the laser head of a level? If so, think about what it is most similar to structurally. More precisely, which of the laser pointers.

For the cheapest one without any optical effects, see Fig. It is precisely these keychain pointers that, as a rule, do not require additional adjustment of the emitter when setting up the level. If this is required, it is carried out simply, quickly and reliably.

Laser pointer-keychain, suitable for use in a homemade level

You need to choose a keychain pointer for a homemade laser level that does not have annular protrusions on the body; it should be a simple cylinder; this will make it easier to adjust the device. The only drawback of a cheap keychain laser pointer is its rather large light spot. But determining its center by eye and putting a mark there is a child’s task.

Level

For a 2-coordinate level for a homemade level, it is best to take a round bubble one, but a T-shaped one will also work, see figure. There are a sea of round bubble levels on sale, in sizes ranging from a button to a plate. For a level you need a level with a caliber of 20-25 mm and a thickness of up to 15 mm. Better is a precision one, with cross marks and degree inclination marks, but a simple one, as in the figure, is generally no worse.

Bubble two-coordinate levels round and T-shaped

Note: If you search for additional information on this topic on Google, do not type “2-axis bubble level.” The popular search engine does not understand what it is and produces a few results that are actually irrelevant to the matter. Type "round bubble level".

How to make a laser level on a gimbal

Without increasing the design budget, you can make a fairly accurate self-leveling laser level from the same children's pointer.

For production you will need:

two old hard drives of the same size;
plastic or fiberboard for the box;
a block of 3 AA batteries from an old children's toy;
soft wire from headphones;
aluminum profile or corner from an old cornice.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions:

1. Carefully disassemble the hard drive, leaving the bearing and mount for the recording plates in place

2. From a suitable corner we make a bracket for hanging. The bearing of the HDD recording plates acts as axis No. 1

3. Axle No. 2 of the gimbal is made from the rocker bearing of the recording heads of the hard drive

4. The laser pointer pendant should be level and heavy. In this case, two aluminum corners were used, filled with a piece of MDF for weight.

5. A gimbal is mounted in the upper part of the rod, and a hole for the laser pointer is drilled in the lower part. All holes are located strictly symmetrically to each other. Above the hole for the pointer, it is necessary to provide a place for the centering bolt

6. Assembling the cardan structure. Without a laser pointer, the bar must be positioned strictly vertically under the influence of gravity. Check the free movement of all gimbal bearings

7. Install the pointer into the bar

8. Assembling the entire structure in the hard drive case

9. Install the adjusting screw into the prepared hole. When it rotates, the center of gravity of the rod shifts, and you can accurately set the horizontal of the laser beam. Instead of batteries, we attach flexible wires from old headphones. We connect them to an external power supply from an old children's toy.

10. The body is made of fiberboard or plastic

11. On the upper plane you can place a bubble system from the building level to adjust the device on the surface. A removable corner with a level, which is usually included with LCD TVs, is also suitable.

12. For strength and stability of the structure, it is better to make the second side wall from the same hard drive. Then all the walls will be parallel, and the level will stand level on the surface

A laser level made in this way will have an accuracy class no worse than that of industrial analogues. In addition, self-leveling simplifies the work of laying horizontal markings over large areas.

Eye level

A private homeowner may also need topographical/geodetic surveying of the area. For example, to connect the drain from the house to a common septic tank or centralized sewer system on your own. But a good, inexpensive and reliable eye level is much more important for a geography lesson. Most schools have a rough protractor with a plumb line and Andrianov's compass for practical lessons in visual surveying. The final results of working with them diminish the authority of both the teacher and the educational process as a whole in the eyes of students, and students are given practically no practical skills.

The basic techniques for leveling relatively flat terrain and steep slopes are shown in Fig. below. Professionals carry out leveling using a theodolite, but this is an expensive device that requires careful handling and special training in working with it. We will make a fairly accurate, stable and easy-to-use visual level, simpler - from a compass with a sight and a good protractor with a plumb line.

Basic techniques for leveling on the ground

A regular travel compass will do. Better - in a round case (item 1 in the next figure). If you take a more expensive tablet compass (item 2), then when adjusting the level (see below), the installation error of the sight will have to be recorded and then taken into account all the time.

What kind of compass with sight and protractor are needed to make an eye level?

If you have a little “extra” money, then an engineering compass is even better suited for a level. It looks the same as a tourist one. But, firstly, engineering compasses are equipped with at least a simple built-in deflector, which significantly reduces the influence of nearby ferromagnetic objects and electromagnetic fields (for example, from power lines) on the needle. Secondly, there are engineering compasses on sale with 2-degree scales: forward (right) and reverse (left, compass). Using the compass scale, the magnetic azimuth of the location is read directly, without additional calculations.

A school protractor-protractor (item 3) is suitable, as stated above, except to spoil the teacher’s mood and amuse the students. For the level, you need to take an engineering (item 4) or navigational protractor with a length of 30 cm. Its first advantage is at least 2 scales (direct and reverse) from 2 rows of marks each. With some skill, this allows you to take the elevation angle with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. Which is quite enough for both laying utility lines and for school activities. Secondly, professional protractors are available for sale (cartographic, geodetic, geological, mining) with a 3rd double-sided scale, 90 degrees from zero along a plumb line. That is, the elevation angle is taken again with such a protractor without additional calculations.

The device of a homemade level for visual leveling on the ground is shown in pos. 1 and 2 fig. below. In this case, a precision level is absolutely necessary. It is installed closer to the tripod nut or, if the device is mounted on a tripod without it (see above), exactly in the center of the board. The compass is placed closer to the rear sight of the sight. The material of the working platform, its preparation and processing are the same as for a laser level, see above; the same applies to the ability to do without a tripod nut. The compass is fastened with self-tapping claws; level – any. The front sight is a black self-tapping screw 2x15 or 2x25. A hole half the thickness of the board is drilled under the head of the self-tapping screw on the underside of the working platform, and its tip is sawed off to a flat plane. The rear sight is a furniture corner 10x10x(0.5-1) with oval mounting holes. If this is not found, the holes in one of the shelves need to be sawed into ovals with a needle file. There is no need to scratch the aiming line and the azimuth line and fill it with paint; they are needed once when adjusting the device, see below. The thread (suspension) of the plumb line is best made from thin fishing line. Its upper end is wrapped around a fastening screw without a knot, with a free loop, and during assembly it is clamped between a pair of washers so that the suspension does not slip out and rub against the protractor.

The device of a homemade eye level for work on the ground

Assembly Features

The crucial moment in the manufacture of this level is the installation of the front sight:

A through pioneer (installation) hole with a diameter of 1-1.3 mm is drilled under the front sight on a drilling machine (to ensure that it is exactly perpendicular to the face of the working platform).
Then, using a large drill, turning the board over, select a hole for the screw head.
After this, use a self-tapping screw with the tip not yet sawed off to drive the installation hole 2-3 times.
Next, the self-tapping screw is unscrewed, and 2-3 drops of PVA are dripped from the installation hole with the thread rolled into it and the glue is pushed along the entire length of the hole with a thin wire or splinter.
Finally, the board is dried for at least 2 days in a heated room, and in the meantime the tip of the screw is carefully filed down, as indicated above.

In addition, one of the shelves of the corner for the rear sight needs to be cut evenly to a height of approx. 1 mm (item 1a in the figure). In fact, if only a little bit of the bend remains above the bend. After this, in the middle of the resulting rear sight strip, an aiming slot is cut with a hacksaw or (better) a hand jigsaw with a metal file to a depth of also approx. 1 mm. The accuracy of the marking is according to a mechanic's ruler, because Then the sight will be adjusted. The point here is that the level has neither a rifle butt nor a pistol grip. Therefore, the lower the rear sight is above the board, the smaller the error will be when shooting slopes, because in the simplest sight of this type, the accuracy of aiming in elevation depends on the mismatch between the visual and aiming axes. If the rear sight is low, then with a vertical deviation of the visual axis, either a board or the sky will appear in the slot instead of the front sight.

Adjustment

The adjustment of an eye level of this design is carried out in 3 stages: a vertical sight (elevation angle), a compass and an azimuth sight (horizontal), and a protractor. All stages can be carried out at home (without going out into the field) and without the use of special equipment.

Sight by elevation

It is not difficult to adjust the sight according to the elevation angle; you only need a good, proven building level. First, the working platform is set exactly horizontally at its own level. The front sight is screwed into place (from below!) and a level is placed on it and the rear sight. Then, by screwing in/unscrewing the front sight, the level bubble is brought out exactly between the marks, pos. 3 in Fig. Once the adjustment is complete, the board is turned over, PVA is dripped into the hole with the fly head and left to dry. PVA glue will securely fix the front sight, and at the same time, if it has dried, you can pick it out for realignment, if necessary.

Azimuth adjustment

To adjust the level in azimuth, you will need a reference point - a remote, thin and clear vertical object: a boiler room pipe, a cellular antenna mast, etc. You can adjust the level in azimuth directly from the room through the window, but it is still better in an open area away from influencing objects, because It is very difficult to measure, take into account and eliminate compass deviation at home. The level is adjusted in azimuth to the trail. order:

The leveling platform is set horizontally in level;
Place the compass in place with north-south (NS, NS) marks exactly along the azimuth line;
The platform is turned until the compass needle aligns exactly with the NS marks;
They “catch” a reference point in the compass sight, pos. 4 in rice;
Record the taken azimuth with an accuracy of 0.5 degrees;
Look through the sight (pos. 5a) and, carefully turning the device, take the reference point to the front sight (pos. 5b);
Loosen the fastening of the rear sight and, also carefully moving it, “catch” the front sight in the slot, pos. 5c;
The rear sight is finally fixed;
Loosen the fastening of the compass and, turning it, set the arrow to the division along the previously measured azimuth (again, position 4);
The compass is finally secured.

Now you understand why you need a round compass? However, the entire adjustment procedure is quite painstaking. In geodesy and topography, specialists who can quickly and accurately conduct visual surveys are always at a premium. Therefore, based on the results of practical work, most likely, you will need to readjust the device once or twice.

What if the compass is a tablet?

It will not be possible to turn it to the true azimuth. Therefore, instead of point 9 above, write down the correction for the difference between the true and taken azimuths directly on the board. It is taken with a plus if the platform was turned to the left (counterclockwise) when adjusting the sight, and with a minus if it was turned to the right. For example, in the case in Fig. the platform needed to be turned to the right approx. by 2 degrees. The correction will be -2 degrees; each time it will need to be subtracted from the azimuth taken by the compass in order to obtain the true azimuth. If the reference mark in the unadjusted sight went in the direction opposite to that in the figure, then the device would need to be turned to the left, the correction would be positive and it would need to be added to the taken azimuth.

Goniometer

The easiest way to adjust a protractor is to loosen the side fastenings of the protractor and set the instrument platform exactly horizontally. Now you need to rotate the protractor around the central fastener until the thread is exactly 90 degrees (or 0 on a double-sided scale), secure the protractor completely - that’s it, the device is ready for use.

Device stand

It remains to resolve the issue of stable mounting of the level during operation. You can mount the body on a camera tripod. By rotating the tripod frame, you will project a horizontal plane in the form of points anywhere on the walls of the room.

The second option is to reuse the case from the old hard drive. If you screw the device body strictly centrally onto the HDD shaft axis, you will get a freely rotating structure with a 360-degree coverage sector.

The main thing is to use a flat surface installed in the middle of the room when working.

And if your volume of work is not large and does not require vertical markings, then you can make a level from a pointer in 10 minutes as shown in the video. By the way, such a laser level does not require repairs at all and is always at hand. An undeniable advantage over all modern instruments.

What do we do?

As for work on the ground, the choice of leveling method is clear - by eye, see below. But it is better to make a construction and repair level using a laser: its advantage, such as a manifold reduction in the labor intensity of marking work, cannot be missed.

3D laser level and laser level

There are generally 2 types of laser levels on sale: 3-coordinate (3D, pos. A in the figure) and laser levels, pos. B. A 3D level that draws lines, corners, crosses and even, under the control of an external computer, the contours of openings or finishing panels - a complex optical-mechanical design that is unlikely to be repeated by hand. But the main thing is that such devices are very flimsy. Not only an accidental shovel of earth or a dropped tool, but also ordinary construction dust in the room can permanently damage a 3D level. Therefore, devices of this class find rather limited use, and we will take up a laser level - it, homemade, can be fit into the given conditions in all respects.

What we have?

Making a laser level seems to be as easy as shelling pears: attach a laser pointer to a regular bubble level and you’re done. Place everything together on a flat stand, spin it and mark it on the wall. The production of such a “mini-level” usually takes no more than 10 minutes, see for example. video:

Video: homemade mini laser level

But in reality it turns out that the final accuracy of the markings is no good. And when using a “new, good” branded laser level, another circumstance emerges: during operation, it is often necessary to adjust the device. Which practically negates the reduction in labor costs. Let's try to figure out why this is and how to fix the matter. The laser level device is shown on the left in Fig. There its main Achilles heel is visible - the initial installation on a tubular bubble level. For accurate initial installation, the beam of the device must be aligned to the horizon along 2 mutually perpendicular planes. But on site, when placing the level on a random support (on the right in the figure), both adjustments turn out to be interdependent! I twisted the tripod leg horizontally in one direction - the beam “went” up or down along the perpendicular. As a result, it can be easier to mark the markings with your hands than to struggle with setting up the laser.

The laser level device and how to use it

Based on this, we will introduce 2 modifications to the design at once: installation of a leveling block on a 2-coordinate level (see below), and a lightweight portable support, independently adjustable to the vertical. On an exactly vertical support, and if you can immediately see where and how much the leveling unit has tilted, it can be quickly and simply set up in one step for the entire marking cycle at a given site.

Although the device of a homemade laser level with a laser pointer instead of a special head is simpler, the procedure for setting it up (see next figure) is no less labor-intensive, and the accuracy and stability are much worse than with manual marking. In this case, 2 more weak points are added to the design: the pointer head and the rotation unit. Where is the guarantee that the pointer beam “hits” exactly along its optical axis? In order to simply move the beam back and forth, their axiality (coaxiality) is not required, which is why laser pointers are cheap. And if the beam is beveled, then when marking by points, instead of straight horizontal lines and plumb lines, you will get tangentoid segments. Their deflection may not be noticeable by eye, but the marking error will exceed the permissible limits.

Device and methods for adjusting a homemade laser level

As for the rotation unit, custom-made parts for it will hardly cost less than the cost of a ready-made laser level. Amateurs with a rotation unit are as clever as they can be. It’s good if there are suitable ready-made parts for it in the storerooms (simply in the trash), as, for example, in the plot:

Video: rechargeable level from a laser module

But this is a single unique product. If there are no suitable components in the stash, craftsmen manage to make laser levels even from... sewer pipes, see video:

Video: laser level from a sewer pipe

We will try to get out of the situation even easier, but observing the conditions set above: accuracy, stability, simplicity.

Tripods for leveling, telescopic slats

The laser level tripod is a lightweight and mobile aluminum structure weighing up to 3.5 kg. This tripod is suitable for use with levels and other devices with similar low weight and has a special lift and smooth movement of the mounting platform. A stronger theodolite tripod is more versatile as it is designed for instruments weighing 6-7 kg.

The tripod is designed for installation of self-leveling and laser levels with leveling disks. This device is used for installation work on the installation of pipelines and metal structures, and general construction work. Typically, a laser level tripod is made of cast aluminum and has a telescopic mechanism with height locks on each leg. The tripod is placed on sharp bases for reliable adhesion to the ground or other surface. The different prices for a level tripod are justified by the material used to make the device, the number of telescopic “bends” and the accuracy characteristics.

When determining the excesses between points and their heights, a telescopic leveling staff is used together with the levels. The telescopic design of the rack allows the device to unfold in a straight line up to 5 meters and fold into one section. Depending on the modifications, slats have a different number of sections. There is a high-precision measurement scale on the front side of the device. On the back there is a millimeter scale for measurements. The telescopic rail must be equipped with height locks to securely secure the sections at the desired level. The front side of the device is reinforced with protective ribs that protect the outer working surface from abrasion under conditions of intense use.

Slats are an indispensable addition to levels for engineering and geodetic, construction work, and topographic surveys. The telescopic slats are more convenient to use due to their compactness and longer measurement length than conventional slats. You can buy measuring instruments in the 220 Volt online store.

A laser level is a properly designed device that is used in any construction work, helps speed it up and perform general marking of any surface with a high level of accuracy. To use such a device you do not need to have any specific knowledge or professional skills. It is important to understand how to make a laser level with your own hands.

Tips for choosing

The higher the class of measurements performed, the stricter the requirements for the sets of equipment used

Based on this, special attention should be paid to the main selection criteria, including tripods for laser levels. One of the key points will be the material from which the device is made.

Most often used:

metal (in the vast majority of cases it is aluminum, one of the main characteristics of which is lightness);
tree;
fiberglass (fiberglass).

Each of these materials has its own characteristics that should be taken into account when choosing a specific tripod model

First of all, you should pay attention to deformation under temperature influence. By the way, metal has the highest coefficient of expansion, and therefore it will deform when exposed to sunlight

Wooden and fiberglass fixtures have almost identical coefficients of thermal expansion. Based on this, it is difficult to give one of the options a clear advantage. In this case, they most often rely on personal preferences.

When choosing tripods, their weight plays an important role. Heavier structures provide maximum stability. But at the same time, transportation becomes significantly more difficult and the mobility of the equipment is greatly reduced. Another important criterion is the features of the “legs” fixation mechanism. Currently available models are equipped with:

clamping screws;
fastening elements in the form of special clips;
combined elements.

The use of models with fastening clips allows you to maximize the speed of work. In situations where rigid fixation of a level or level is paramount, preference should be given to tripods with screws or combined mechanisms.

Taking into account all the existing nuances, the following basic rules for selecting the most suitable device can be identified:

with increased requirements for accuracy, priority will be given to heavy models made of fiberglass or wood;
if maximum mobility of the entire structure is required, then it would be wiser to choose aluminum tripods equipped with clips;
If you have a level with a compensator, you can be guided solely by preferences, taking into account financial capabilities.

Naturally, the list of key criteria includes product quality

In this case, it is worth focusing on the manufacturer of the tripod. Experienced specialists prefer to use proven and proven products from market leaders

The purchase of such tripods and holders, of course, will not be cheap. However, their performance and durability will fully repay all financial costs.

Purpose and classification of devices

The principle of operation of the device is quite simple: you need to place the laser level on the surface of the floor or wall, start it and wait for the device to create vertical or horizontal marking lines, depending on the surface used.

But such a device in construction stores costs a lot, so it’s best to figure out how to create a tripod for a level with your own hands, especially since such a procedure does not require much labor.

In appearance, the alignment looks more like a compact device that can be installed on different surfaces. The most common mounting of the device is carried out using the following settings:

tripod stand;
magnetic mounts;
bracket;
special fastening belts.

In addition to the principle of fastening, construction devices differ from each other in the features of the projection of the laser beam onto the wall surface and its direction. Devices that are used to determine direction create a projection on the surface in the form of a point. The levels that delimit the plane include in their structure a special optics system that turns the beam into the plane itself. Today, experienced builders identify the following types of laser systems:

Rotary device , which can rotate around its axis, while forming clear outlines. This device has a durable body, well protected from external factors. This product is often used for various construction works: from pouring the floor to creating a ceiling.
Positioning apparatus , which includes two radiation sources, it helps to project the plane visible to the builder. This device is most often used to furnish a room.
A self-leveling device is a level that includes a special pendulum that can emit about five rays. Such a device may also have a cross-type sight.

The main disadvantage of such leveling levels is their high price. The cost for a simple device is not always rational for the average user and is as much as ten times more than the cost of a simple bubble or water device.

DIY laser level: proper use

It’s not enough to make a laser level at home, you also need to know how to use it. You need to fix the stick with the sharp end down on the desired surface, then using a bubble level, level the angle of the bar to achieve the most accurate horizontal position. You need to turn on the laser pointer and carefully point it at the desired surface.

Before using the laser level, you should watch the training video and study the instructions for use

Once there are two points, you need to draw a horizontal line connecting them. If the result is a perfectly straight line, the level is working and installed correctly. The dots indicate whether the stand and stand are installed perfectly. When working with such a device, it is better to have safety glasses to relieve eye strain. Adjustment will be even faster if you use a plumb bob to help with the work. A homemade laser level has a bit of a primitive design, but the ability to save a decent amount of money mitigates this problem.

Experts highlight a number of advantages that a home level has:

The beam length is sufficiently long, allowing it to be used in almost all work related to repair and construction;
A small level of error, which is an insignificant drawback;
High speed of marking and convenience, which a regular bubble level does not have;
But builders highlight the main and most significant feature - the ability to project rays in a horizontal plane.

The homemade device can be used in further work; it will serve faithfully during the construction of a fence, if necessary, mark the boundaries on a personal plot, during the cladding of any structure. Professional workers will need purchased levels, they come in these types. Bubble - it is a plastic or wooden case with three flasks inside. Each of them is filled with alcohol and has a bubble, it should be located in the middle, indicating the exact location.

Water - they are a hose of small diameter and up to 25 meters long, with two flasks, all elements are connected to each other. Each flask has a printed scale; such a device has both advantages, in the form of low cost, and disadvantages - you need to be careful when pouring liquid, and it only works on horizontal surfaces. Magnetic - their advantage is ease of mounting - it is quickly and firmly installed on any metal surface and gives accurate readings. Tubular - it is made in the form of a rectangle and is equipped with a magnet and a cord. Laser - it is characterized by high accuracy and range, but has one significant drawback - high cost.

Making a pointer with a laser

If you count all the costs for a telescopic rod for a laser level, then a person will only have to spend money on purchasing a pointer. All additional details can be created independently from scrap materials that can be found in any home. The main task in creating the device will be to mount the special pointer in such a way that it can rotate in any direction. First, it is important to prepare the special parts of the future device:

self-leveling laser pointer;
construction cord;
a simple drill powered by electricity;
a block of wood with an aspect ratio of 25 by 25 centimeters and a length of 5 meters;
a special support in the form of a stick for installing the device.

To construct a laser cut pointer with your own hands, you need to follow some simple steps:

Several parallel holes are drilled in the prepared wooden block on both sides. One of them is needed for attaching the pointer, and the second for guiding the construction cord.
After the laser device is installed in place, a rope is tied, which is needed to suspend the device above the desired structure. A hole is created at the opposite end of the block so that the cord can easily pass through it.
A special rope is inserted into the hole made, which is attached to the beam and tightened well.
In this case, any convenient shelf can serve as a support, including a simple shovel stuck into the ground on the site.

It is important to ensure that the installed support is fixed and securely fastened. If you neglect this rule, then you simply won’t be able to set the desired level.

Determining device quality

Using a laser level, created with your own efforts from a pointer, you can mark any room, but it is best to take into account low-light conditions so that the light beam is well defined. At the beginning of work, the device must be attached with a rope to the middle of the room in which construction work is being carried out. The level, made with your own hands, is turned in a certain direction, after which the total distance of the beam length is marked on it, then a stick is attached, on which it is very easy to mark.

After completing such procedures, the spacer plumb can be directed in any direction desired by the user, where the corresponding marks are made (it will self-level). Moreover, if the position of the main support is fixed, then all marks on the surface will be located at the same level. After marking the main points, they can be combined with a construction cord, along which the necessary marks can be set with a construction meter.

Move a mark

Let's figure out how to move the elevation mark using a level. For example, we need to make a benchmark, based on which the excavator operator will dig a pit, two meters deep below the floor level of the building. The value of the floor height is what we need to indicate to the excavator operator.

We install the rail at the reference design point, the height of which corresponds to the design height of the building’s floor, that is, zero, and take a reference. When independently developing a project or when → linking an existing project to the area, the height of this point is set using a peg or a mark is set on some fixed surface (brick fence, tree, pole, etc.). Or such benchmarks (marks) are set by a surveyor accompanying the construction site. Let, for example, it turn out to be 162.

Directly at the site of the future pit, we drive in a peg and, placing the rail close to it, again take the value, let it be equal to 179. The difference will be 17 centimeters. We set aside 17 cm from the bottom of the batten up the peg, mark the value with a marker or pencil. By driving another peg nearby so that its top coincides with the notch, we get a clearly visible landmark, after which the peg with the notch can be removed.

Creating a laser level

To design a laser level in this case, it is important to prepare in advance a container for liquid, a piece of plasticine, and also a patch, that is, a material that can easily be used to fasten the main part of the device (electronic holder). Of course, for this you will need to use a laser pointer and a piece of polystyrene foam. The device construction procedure itself will be carried out in accordance with a special plan:

First, take a small container and completely fill it with liquid. Most often, a large saucepan or a simple bucket is used as a reservoir.
A pointer is attached to the foam. It is best to use a simple nozzle that will project the point. It is important to ensure that the pointer is attached to the foam as best as possible. It is better to fasten it with a special rubber band, plasticine or a clamp.
The container with liquid is mounted at the required height - it will act as a stand for the laser level.
The laser ruler with foam plastic is placed inside the container.
Then the pointer turns on.
By changing the location of the foam in comparison with the central axis on the marked surfaces, special points are marked. All marks will be on the same level.

Despite the fact that this level cannot be called completely identical, the clarity of the markings in this case is quite high, so home-made structures can well be used in construction.

Review of manufacturers

Nowadays, many manufacturing companies present their products on the market of tools, measuring equipment and additional devices. Naturally, the leaders of the segment are such giants as Bosch. And in this case we are talking about the largest developer of power tools and electronic devices. For many, this brand is associated with traditional German quality.

In addition to the German giant, other manufacturers also present their developments.

ADA Instruments is a company that started its activities more than 10 years ago. Initially, it was positioned as a brand of diagnostic and measurement equipment developed for a variety of industries. By the way, ADA stands for ADditional Accuracy, which means “additional accuracy.” The manufacturer offers potential buyers models of geodetic and telescopic tripods and rods.

Given the variety of accessories available, you can find high-quality AEG tripods in some specialty stores. Despite the fact that these structures are developed for the installation of lighting devices, laser levels can also be attached to them. By the way, the company has almost 40 years of history and today is an integral part of such large associations as Electrolux Group and Clatronic Group.

Another representative of Russia is, which also produces wall brackets. Now its products, including high-quality tripods for measuring equipment, can be found in many stores.

Manufacturers from the United States are not left out either. These include, for example, Dewalt, an American brand specializing in the development of power tools and accessories.

Formation of the cross

Another type of level that you can create yourself is a laser cress. This device is convenient to use when hanging cabinets in the kitchen or paintings indoors, as well as in many other cases. To create such a construction tool, you need to prepare a tripod from a video camera, a non-working player and several unnecessary disks.

A cross made of laser pointers is installed on a tripod so that it begins to rotate around its axis. You can also use a drive from the player for this.
It is also important to take into account that the level can freely move from one vertical to another to the desired height.
The discs are glued together and attached to the old player.
At the end of the work, a cross of laser pointers is attached to the disks. To install it, you need to use tape or other convenient means.

Due to the fact that the device will be in a stationary position on the tripod, it can be rotated in any direction without changing the height level. Having set all the necessary marking indicators, you can accurately set the level to any desired height in the room without regularly adjusting the device.

Main advantages of the device

Of course, there is no need to expect that a level created by yourself will perform all complex marking operations. But for use in domestic conditions, such a device is quite suitable and will even in many ways surpass the quality of a water device. This device is also provided with the following functions:

large length of emitted projection;
minimal defect rate with comparative ease of use;
increasing the speed of space marking.

But the main advantage of such a device will be the projection of the beam onto a horizontal plane. It is with the help of this property that the builder can accurately determine the vertical and horizontal markings of both the floor and the walls and ceiling. In addition, such a device can be used for marking a summer cottage, house facades, or when creating a fence.

Second manufacturing method

The main part of the device is also the laser beam emitter. The homemade device uses a simple laser pointer instead of an emitter. To do this you need to prepare:

bubble building level;
thick plywood or strong board;
a peg with a diameter of 1.2 meters with a square cross-section or a shape of five by five centimeters and a diameter of six centimeters;
a piece of rubber with a porous surface.

With the help of simple manipulations, the laser pointer becomes an emitter from which a point is projected into the room. For this, a simple one without additional borders is used. The hole must be sealed with thick paper and a small hole must be created in it. After this, the nozzle and pointer will create a point of small diameter on the wall used for construction.

Afterwards the laser is installed to the outside of the building level. For this purpose, special clamps are used. It is important to place a small piece between the body and the level. This will help create automation, which is important for adjusting the overall tilt of the laser beam.

Afterwards the device is placed on a special tripod stand. To create it, you need to use a stake, one part of which is well sharpened, and the second is leveled so that a flat area appears. A piece of plywood or board is attached to the flat side with a screw. There is no need to secure it completely so that you can easily unfold the board if needed in the future.

The peg is driven into the ground; if the work is carried out indoors, then a tripod is used instead of a peg. At the same time, the stand is aligned horizontally. A special level is attached to it and the emitter is turned on.

To mark the surface of a wall using a building level, you need to mark a luminous point on the wall, and then turn the laser in the direction in which the marking will be made.

After this, a second point will appear on the wall. If you combine them, a horizontal line will appear.

Preparation of construction equipment and tools:

before work, it is important to eliminate the place of the pointer where there is no insert with a pattern, such a hole is sealed with cardboard, in which a small hole is made, after which the cap is carefully placed in its original place;
such procedures are important to achieve higher clarity of point projection;
It is important to make a simple stick sharp at the end, and install plywood on top of a flat base. The angle should correspond to ninety degrees;
A bar is installed on top of the board, the same length as the bubble level. Installation is carried out using a screw so that it can be turned in different directions. At the end, the bubble level is attached to the pointer; for this, a porous elastic band and a clamp are used; if this is important for the cut, then a special recess is created.

If you want to purchase a building level, you don’t need to quickly go to the store and purchase an expensive device. You can show interest, donate a little of your time and create a level with your own hands from scrap materials.

Additional options and features

In addition to the main parameters, there are also some additional ones. They make things easier, so it's more about usability. After all, additional functions affect the final result only indirectly or partially.

Self-leveling

In order for the measurements to be correct, the level must be installed vertically upward. In simple models, their position is checked with simpler devices, usually a bubble level. In some models it is built into the body, in others it is not. Then you have to resort to ordinary construction, which is not entirely convenient. In addition, incorrect readings are possible - if during operation it changes position and you do not see it, the work will be performed incorrectly. To avoid such a situation, you have to double-check the position of the device several times.

Self-leveling (self-compensation of a small angle of inclination)

Some laser levels have a self-leveling or self-leveling feature. When deviating from the vertical by a small angle (usually up to 4°), they adjust the position of the mirrors and prisms so that all readings are correct. If the tilt exceeds the maximum permissible, they either make a sound/give a light signal, or turn off the beams. Operation is restored when returning to normal.

Having a laser level with this function makes it easy to set up the device at the very beginning of work. Also, during its use, you don’t have to worry that it has changed position - it will give a signal.

However, sometimes the level needs to be set at a certain angle. The presence of a self-leveling function will not allow this to be done. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a model in which this function can be blocked.

Self-shutdown

This function allows you to save battery power. If the device does not move for 10-15 minutes, it turns off. On the one hand, this is useful, on the other hand, some jobs require more than 15 minutes and shutting down can be annoying. Whether you need this feature or not is up to you.

Automatic shutdown is not always good

Operating temperature

If you plan to work in the warm season or only indoors, the temperature does not matter. Basically, a laser level can be operated at temperatures from +5°C to +40°C, that is, they are only suitable for heated rooms or work in the warm season.

Most laser levels are designed to work in a heated room

If you need to choose a laser level for working outdoors with the possibility of operation in the cold season, there are “frost-resistant” models that can withstand temperatures down to -10°C. Even more frost-resistant ones must be looked for specifically; there are very few of them.

Mounting type

In addition to the standard installation of the laser level on a horizontal plane, there may be several additional options for mounting it:

On a special tripod. Most often needed for outdoor work, but some work (drawing horizontal lines on walls when hanging furniture, for example) is also easier to do with a tripod. A tripod is sometimes included, sometimes purchased separately

When purchasing, pay attention to the diameter of the thread on the body of the level - the tripod must have the same one. On magnets. Magnets are soldered into the body of some models

This makes it possible to attach it to any metal surface/part. The type of fastening affects the ease of use. On a special magnetic stand. Some models of laser levels come with a small plastic pad into which magnets are soldered. A platform is installed on a metal surface, and a level is placed on it. Self-tapping screw/nail. A special hole is made in the body of the level into which the head of a nail or self-tapping screw is threaded. Not the most convenient way of fastening, but still.

Everything is clear with these options. You can, of course, do without them, come up with your own way. These are simply opportunities for more comfortable operation.

Shockproof housing and the possibility of self-adjustment (adjustment)

It is very useful if the laser level has a shockproof housing. Construction or repair is a high-risk area for any tool, so it often falls. If the case is shockproof, there is a high probability that even after a fall it will survive.

A shockproof case wouldn't hurt

If dropped or carelessly transported, the level's settings may be lost and it may begin to lie. To eliminate this “phenomenon”, some devices provide the ability to independently configure

For this you will need to carry out certain manipulations described in the instructions.