Bath siphon: types, which one is better, assembly and installation

Sewage equipment provides water supply and removal of used liquid from the water supply system. If the drainage device fails, the siphon in the bathroom is replaced. Recommendations from the experts will help you carry out repairs without calling a plumbing team.

What can the system do?

The drain-overflow system is used in all designs, as it plays an important role. If the owner forgets to turn off the tap, he will not flood the neighbors, because excess water will flow out through the upper hole. But this is far from the only purpose of such a design.

• Thanks to the water seal that is formed in the siphon, unpleasant sewer odors do not penetrate into the room. The water barrier prevents even strong aromas from escaping. However, not all models are able to guarantee 100% protection, so it is important to understand the technical features of the product.
• Some options use a special mechanism to close or open the drain hole. This is how the owner controls the filling level of the bathroom.
• Thanks to the sealed frame of the overflow hole, excess water does not seep through the rubber seal and does not accumulate on the floor. Water flows through the pipes and reaches the sewer pipe. There is no discomfort in using the system, as in old models that leaked due to high pressure, creating puddles under the bathtub.
• Bathtub overfilling no longer poses a threat to a person. If the user is distracted from the filling process due to unforeseen matters, then the only thing he will have to pay for is extra cubes. There will be no large puddles or water throughout the apartment, as in some films. Excess liquid exits through the overflow hole, which has a corrugated hose and connects to the sewer line.
• Some manufacturers produce products that protect the user and decorate the bathroom.

In stores there are models that can not only eliminate excess water, but also function together with the supply system. That is, a person can not install a faucet, but entrust the filling to this product. Some people like this solution because it allows you to create a minimalist style without a bulky faucet that stands out from the crowd.

Today the market is full of similar systems, some differ only in external design, while others differ in the material of manufacture. Thanks to this quantity, a person has a choice that will help give the room a new look or find an option that has never been used by friends.

This is interesting: How to install a wall-mounted mixer

How does the type of bathtub affect installation technology?

You should also carefully read this information; it will make it possible to competently prepare for the upcoming installation work. The design features of freestanding bathtubs require an individual approach to their installation. Bathtubs differ both in the material they are made of and in the type and purpose of the support legs. What materials are free-standing bathtubs made of, and how does this factor affect the installation algorithm?

Acrylic

Freestanding bathtub (acrylic) made in Yu. China

Plastic products in bathrooms are not uncommon today. The material is highly technological and has good performance characteristics. It can be used to create any form of plumbing without the need for complex equipment. The production process is accessible even to small companies. Acrylic bathtubs have a low specific gravity, which makes it possible to use simple legs for them. In addition, weight reduction has a positive effect on bathroom flooring and reduces actual loads. But plumbers note significant problems with such bathtubs.

1. Insufficient physical strength. Because of this, the stop for a freestanding bathtub must be around the entire perimeter. As a result, there are difficulties with installing the mixer on the side. In addition, the appearance deteriorates significantly; the legs serve only a decorative function.
2. Low weight requires special solutions for reliable fixation on the floor. A bathtub that is not filled with water can move even with little effort, as a result of which the tightness of the connection to the pipes is disrupted. This drawback must be taken into account during installation. In addition, the strength of acrylic is significantly inferior to enamel; it must be washed carefully; the surface is very susceptible to abrasive materials.

Cast iron

Cast iron bathtub with legs

Not so long ago, all bathtubs were made from this material, but today it is a fashionable and expensive trend. One advantage that is advertised is that it keeps the water warm for a long time. We discussed this characteristic in detail in the article above; we will not dwell on it.

What material shortcomings do plumbers point out?

• The heavy weight creates difficulties with installation work. For many operations, a freestanding bathtub must be turned over several times. It is physically impossible to do this alone; you have to call several helpers. They must wait all the time until the plumber finishes his work and only then install it in place.
• When working with a bathtub, the risk of damage to floor coverings increases. The tile can not only be scratched, but also develop large cracks. Especially if it was laid with gross violations of technology or the thickness of the tiles is insufficient for floor coverings with such a load.
• After installing a freestanding bathtub, it is necessary to check the tightness of all connections; if leaks are detected, they must be repaired immediately. To do this, the bathtub needs to be raised again. All this complicates installation and increases its cost.

Sheet steel

Stainless steel bath

In all respects, the option is average, the price is the cheapest. Installs without any problems. Designers have minor complaints about this material - a steel free-standing bathtub does not have “solidity”, and the support of the legs should only be at the bottom.

Stainless steel bathtub

freestanding bathtub

The procedure for dismantling communications and removing a cast iron bath ↑

The most difficult of all possible options is dismantling plumbing fixtures made of cast iron. The task becomes more complicated if the plans include removing the entire bathtub in order to use it later, for example, at the dacha. One person clearly cannot do this - a cast iron product can weigh up to 100 kg, so at least two people will have to work.

Dismantling the problematic old harness ↑

After removing all objects that interfere with the work from the room, the bathtub must be disconnected from all fittings, including the drain. Cast iron plumbing has been installed in many homes since ancient times, when drain lines were made of cast iron pipes. It is usually not possible to simply disassemble them after many years, so dismantling a cast-iron bathtub with removal will have to be done in other ways.

First you need to disconnect the overflow. If it is made of plastic parts, problems usually do not arise. But with old plumbing, you often have to deal with metal components, which are not easy to dismantle. Sometimes you can unscrew this element using pliers, simply by hooking them on the grille and turning it counterclockwise. If the overflow grate is very stuck, you will have to use an angle grinder:

• Make a deep cut on the overflow with a sander.
• Using saw cuts, knock down the overflow grate in parts with a chisel.

There are usually far fewer problems with plastic elements. You only need to unscrew the fastening element on the grille (bolt or nut), after which the overflow can be freely and effortlessly detached from the bathtub. The situation with the drain is similar - the siphon is easily disconnected after unscrewing the nut on the metal protective grille.

How to disconnect a cast iron siphon from a bathtub ↑

To dismantle the bathtub, you need to disconnect the drain from it. If the drain is made of cast iron, then difficulties may arise at this stage. There are several ways to disconnect a cast iron siphon from a plumbing fixture. The first is similar to that described above - an incision is also made on top of the plum with a grinder, but this time crosswise. The main thing here is to cut through only the drain grate without damaging the bathtub itself.

If you accidentally cut through the cast iron of a bathtub with a grinder, then you can no longer install a new trim on it in the future. Of course, if the surface layer of enamel is only slightly touched, nothing terrible will happen, but if a deep cut is made through negligence, the plumbing with the new piping will definitely leak. Next, you need to proceed in the same way as in the case of overflow:

• Place a chisel on one of the resulting cuts at an angle of approximately 45 degrees so that blows on the tool rotate the drain grate counterclockwise.
• Try to unscrew the drain in this way. If this is not possible, make the cuts as deep as possible and simply knock off the ribs of the grate. To do this, the chisel must be placed so that the blows are no longer directed counterclockwise, but inward - towards the center of the drain.

You can also use a chisel to knock out the crosspiece at the bottom of the grille. This will make it easier to get rid of the remaining parts after cutting. Upon completion of the dismantling of this element, the siphon will hang freely in the opposite area, being connected to the sewer lines. To remove it, you only need to break the coupling in this place.

An effective way to dismantle old trim ↑

Another way to remove the siphon to dismantle the bathtub involves using a hammer drill. The required element is secured under the bathtub with a large cast-iron nut, which is simply not possible to unscrew in the usual way after many years of operation. But if you use a hammer drill, the task becomes simpler:

• The tool must be switched to impact mode and a flat chisel attachment must be secured in the chuck.
• Loosen the large nut connecting the siphon to the drain, acting on the edges of the nut with a hammer drill in impact mode, so that it gradually unscrews, that is, counterclockwise. After which you can dismantle the siphon by hand.

There is nothing complicated about this method; in addition, there is no need to use a grinder, which can easily damage the enamel or even accidentally make a deep cut, rendering the bowl unusable.

What to do if the bathtub is installed in a used room

The difficulty of this case is that there is no underground drainage system and water supply. Breaking flooring is difficult and expensive; not every owner wants to take drastic measures. There are two ways out.

1. Install engineering systems into the wall, and bring the bathtub as close to it as possible. Disadvantage - the number of options for installing a free-standing bathtub is significantly reduced. The advantage is that the list of construction works is reduced and the installation process is accelerated.
2. Cover the pipelines with a brick tunnel. Disadvantages - the bath room is divided. Advantages – the ability to remove the bathroom from the wall.

Let us consider in detail both options for solving the problem.

How to install pipelines into a wall

Step 1. Locate the central sewer riser, hot and cold water outlet. As a rule, they are installed in one of the corners of the room.

Mounted sewer riser

Step 2: Remove the bottom row of wall tiles. If the tiles were laid by professional and conscientious builders, then it is difficult to remove them. You will have to chop the tiles into small pieces; this is the only way to remove them from the glue. This is not a problem, the bottom row will then be covered with new tiles, it is recommended to take a different color. You will get a base pattern around the perimeter of the bathroom.

The process of dismantling tiles

Step 3. Turn off the water, think about how to insert it into existing pipelines. It all depends on the material of the pipes and their diameter, but in any case they will have to be cut and tees installed.

Step 4. Purchase pipes, fittings and shut-off valves for the pipelines to the bath. Assemble all the elements and check their tightness. Leave leads in the wall for connecting the drain and faucet.

Hidden plumbing

Step 5. Seal the holes in the wall, after the mortar has hardened, lay the bottom row of ceramic tiles.

Pipes are sealed with mortar

Now you can connect the bathtub to the drainage and water supply system. The work is complex from a technical point of view and requires practical skills and theoretical knowledge.

We suggest using a simpler option - laying pipes along the floor surface and covering it with a brick tunnel on top. In the future, the tunnel is covered with tiles; it can be used as a comfortable bench. Place a dressing table near it, and there will be a convenient place for cosmetic procedures.

How to make a tunnel over pipelines

It is recommended to do it at right angles to the wall, but this is not necessary. You can use foam blocks measuring 200×300×600 mm or 100×300×600 mm.

Foam block

From the wall to the location of the bathtub, the pipes lie directly on the floor, and are lined with foam blocks on the sides and top. Finishing with ceramic tiles. This method allows you to mount a free-standing bathtub anywhere and at the same time make a very comfortable bench or additional shelves. If you want, make a door and store various accessories in the tunnel. How to make a tunnel to a bathtub?

Step 1. Beat lines from the wall to the location where the bathtub will be installed. It is better to beat with a special rope with blue, such devices are sold in construction stores.

Chockline with blue

Step 2. If the tunnel is built from foam blocks 100 mm thick, then they should be fixed to the floor. To do this, every third person must sit on a vertical metal pin. The depth of the pin in the block and the floor is approximately ten centimeters. The holes are drilled using a drill with a hammer drill. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the pin.

Step 3. Prepare a cement-sand mortar or use ready-made tile adhesive. The second option is slightly more expensive, but better in all respects.

Mixing tile adhesive

Step 4. Place the blocks under the level, constantly monitor their position. First you need to make two vertical walls. The thickness of the mortar between blocks is no more than 1 cm.

Step 5. If the width of the tunnel is greater than the width of the block, then you need to use metal plates for jumpers. Place them at a distance of approximately 30 cm from each other. Horizontal blocks are placed on top of the plates. The end of the tunnel is sealed.

Once the structure has dried, you can lay tiles. This method is much easier than chiseling floors. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be dismantled without problems, and the bath can be moved to another location. The bath is ready, now it's time to think about connecting the mixer.

Design Features

Despite the wide range, variety of designs, designs and capabilities. The operating principle of each product is the same and consists of several points:

• Neck. The element is installed at the bottom. During installation, attention must be paid to sealing, since durability and reliability depend on it. The kit should contain special seals; if they are not present, then it is better not to buy such equipment. The neck has a grille that prevents large debris from entering and accumulating inside the system. Therefore, the chance of clogging is minimal.
• Siphon. The product is designed to form a water seal that prevents the penetration and spread of unpleasant odors into the room. Often the product is compact in size, since the space under the bathtub is limited, which does not allow the installation of large models. Another useful feature is the connection of all pipes to the sewer main. When choosing, attention is paid to volume, since its effectiveness depends on quantity. It is recommended to buy products where this value is at least 300 ml, more is possible.
• To connect to the sewerage pipes are used. The diameter of this element is universal – 50 mm. However, there are models with different designs. There is a cylindrical section at the end.
• An overflow neck is installed on the top of the bathtub. The product is equipped with an elbow, which is directed downward during installation. When the user buys a ready-made version, this element is connected to all the main parts at once, which greatly simplifies installation and operation.
• For the interaction between the drain neck and the overflow, a pipe is used, which is made of various materials. It can be rigid (made of metal or durable plastic) or flexible (for example, corrugated, often made of PVC). Differences in curvature and length are permitted.
• Closing device. The element allows you to control the filling of the bath.

Materials for the manufacture of drainage devices

The very first material from which drainage devices began to be made was an alloy of carbon and iron - cast iron. What are modern models made of?

Most often this is:

• Plastic. Devices made of plastic are characterized by a long service life and low cost. If you plan to cover the space under the bathroom with a protective screen, then a plastic siphon is what you need. Its simple appearance will not irritate you, and this inexpensive model will serve you faithfully and for a long time.
• Metal. In terms of their aesthetic properties, metal products have no competitors. Siphons are made from chrome steel, bronze, and brass. If you purchased an acrylic bathtub and plan to install it in the center of a spacious bathroom, then buy a metal siphon. This drainer looks luxurious and will serve as an additional decorative element to your bathroom. These models also have their drawbacks: dirt quickly accumulates on their internal surfaces, and cleaning can be difficult.
• Cast iron. Siphons made from cast iron can only be installed on cast iron bathtubs. Today they are difficult to find on sale, because this heavy and massive product requires jewelry precision during installation.

Who would have thought that all bathtub drains were like this? They were made of cast iron, were very heavy, and their installation could only be carried out by specialists

The general rule for choosing a siphon, based on the material it is made of, is this: if the siphon is visible, then preference should be given to an expensive metal model, and for hidden installation, cheap and practical plastic is better suited.

How to install a siphon on a bath How to install a drain in a bathroom.

The siphon is one of the most important plumbing devices. Without it, neither sinks, nor showers, nor toilets, nor bathtubs and bidets can be installed. But, like any other device, the siphon eventually becomes unusable, wears out and ceases to function normally. How to install a siphon on a bathtub? Replacing a drain is not such a complicated undertaking that you need to call a specialist about it. All necessary work can be done with your own hands if you follow certain rules.

Photo 1. Installing a drain is not as difficult as it seems.

Why do you need a siphon?

The siphon is a transition link connecting the plumbing drain hole to the sewer pipe. It has two functions: filtering and shutter. Due to the presence of a special elbow, a certain amount of water remains in the siphon when using sanitary appliances. This small amount of water acts as a plug that “locks” sewer odors in the pipe and prevents them from entering the room.

The filtration function is expressed in the fact that heavy particles contained in the drains settle at the bottom of the bend. Therefore, if a ring or earring suddenly falls into the drain, you can always get it out by removing the plug.

There are instructions on how to install a drain in a bathroom. This is possible taking into account the characteristics of the sanitary device. Some models require that the bathroom siphon be replaced using parts specially made for it. You can install a bathtub drain with your own hands, but this requires studying at least the standard model of a siphon drain.

Photo 2. Siphon drains do not allow various contaminants to create blockages in the pipes.

Replacing the bath siphon

Have you decided to replace your old device with a new one? This means that first we dismantle the structure. Prepare a small bucket or some container to drain the water from the device elbow. We will also remove the plug where accumulated dirt can flow out. Therefore, in order to protect the floor in the bathroom, we place dishes under the dismantled structure.

Photo 3. Before replacing the siphon, it is worth preparing vessels for possible dirt.

How to install a drain in a bathtub

• We disassemble the old device. The procedure is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge or effort. Only in exceptional cases are the nuts on the siphon tightened to the limit and can be unscrewed using additional tools.

We remove the old siphon with inlet and outlet pipes. If the structure is quite old, then, most likely, the pipes will seem to be attached to the siphon. Therefore, try to disassemble the structure very carefully so as not to damage the sewer pipe system.

We clean the installation sites from pieces of rubber gaskets, rust, dirt and any irregularities. You can use sandpaper and a mild knife.

Try to dismantle the bathtub siphon and prepare a place for a new system in the shortest possible time. After all, all this time the sewer hole remains open, through which your bathroom will be filled with poisonous sewer aromas.

How to replace a siphon in a bathroom yourself

After preparation, you can proceed to installing a new drainage device. It is carried out in the same way as when installing a bathtub. In the kit you should find:

• exhaust pipe with rubber gasket;

two plastic nuts;

overhead rubber stopper;

stainless steel clamping screw;

rubber cuff-cone;

gasket with drain cover;

and a curved pipe or flask.

The assembly of the siphon depends on its type. If it is a bottle, then put a rubber gasket on the flask and screw on the bottom. The tubular type of device does not require preparation or assembly; we immediately proceed to the second stage - connecting the overflow to the bathtub

We pay special attention to tightening all elements (but without excessive zeal). Don't forget about rubber gaskets! After installing the overflow system, we proceed to connecting the pipe to the main drain, also paying attention to the reliability of tightening the connecting elements

Photo 4. Replacing the bathtub drain will not be a problem if you follow the instructions exactly.

The next step is installing a siphon on the bathtub. To attach it, you do not need additional tools - installation is carried out only by hand. Tightening nuts with wrenches and other devices can create unnecessary stress in the system. And it is one of the main reasons for the appearance of leaks and cracks in the system.

Two main functions of a siphon

The plumbing device in question is designed to perform two main functions:

• drainage of water from the font to the sewer;
• preventing the penetration of rotting odors from sewer pipes into the bathtub room.

Each of the functions of the siphon is realized thanks to the design features of this device.

A bath siphon is installed not only so that water can be drained by gravity into the sewer. It has one more function: to prevent toxic gases from entering the bathtub from the sewer system.

The siphon consists of two blocks: drain and overflow. A drain pipe attached to the bottom of the bathtub serves to remove water. When we need to fill a bowl with water, for example, to swim, we plug the mouth of this particular pipe with a stopper.

If you do not control the process of filling the bath with water, there is a danger of liquid overflowing over the edge of the bath. An overflow pipe helps prevent this nuisance. It is attached to a special hole in the front of the bowl, located just below the rim. Before filling the bath with water, all that remains is to make sure that the passage of the overflow pipe is free. When buying a drain device, always give preference to a bathtub siphon with an overflow.

Using the drain and overflow pipe, the siphon function is provided to remove water from the bath: when there is a threat of overflow or when the need for it has ceased.

It is in the bend of the siphon pipe, which is called the “elbow,” that a water seal is formed that prevents unpleasant odors from entering the bathroom through the bathtub drain.

The siphon's design feature allows it to implement the function of protecting against unpleasant odors. The bend of the pipe of this plumbing device, the so-called “elbow”, is a place where there is always a small amount of water remaining after draining. The liquid in the “elbow” forms a kind of water plug - a water seal, which reliably resists gases escaping from the sewer.

Sometimes inexpensive models of siphons without an “elbow” are available for sale. If you don’t want to constantly fight putrid “odors” from the sewer, choose models that have a curved part.

What types are there?

There are not many varieties of this product based on the way it works. There are 3 types in total, which are completely different from each other:

• Mechanical systems;
• Semi-automatic;
• Automatic.

The name of each system is conditional. It reveals only the operating principle that occurs inside the equipment; automatic systems do not have any special features that allow control via a smartphone. To make it easier to navigate the store, it is important to know what the main differences between representatives are.

Mechanical option

Open overflow neck and drain hole, which is closed with a lid. Here are the main features of the equipment. The upper part can be covered with a decorative element. This does not make the throughput any worse. All functions work perfectly.

To close the bottom drain, the kit includes a special cover, which is made of plastic or metal, but has a rubberized part that ensures a tight fit. For greater convenience, some manufacturers equip the element with a chain; it allows you to quickly find the plug under water.

In many bathrooms, the mechanical product is in high demand. Because the bath itself has a long service life and is rarely changed. Of course, the product cannot provide any special features, and all actions are reduced to manual control, but its reliability has been proven over the years.

Advantages:

• Low price of equipment;
• Easy installation;
• Good durability indicator;
• Reliability.

There are disadvantages, not many of them, so most of them are conditional:

• An outdated option that is not suitable for lovers of modern solutions;
• Sometimes the plug can get lost, especially if there is a child in the apartment.

Semi-automatic devices

A modern option that features additional functionality and an affordable price. The equipment is equipped with special elements that increase operating comfort. The design of this device is much more complex, so installation work is recommended to be carried out by plumbers.

Advantages of execution:

• Convenient adjustment of the water level; a person does not need to come into contact with the water to find the plug; just turn the lever or press the button located on the overflow neck.
• Beautiful external design that stands out from the general background.

Flaws:

• If the user uses the drain hole control device several times a day, the cable will quickly become unusable and begin to work incorrectly.
• It is not recommended to install the structure in apartments where hard water flows through the water supply, because plaque will begin to form on the main elements. This will cause the equipment to break down after a couple of years of use.

Due to the fact that the system is equipped with a rotating element, this is its weak point. Therefore, the following problems occur:

• Cable breakage due to severe wear;
• Damage to the drain element;
• Flywheel failure.

There are many options for the formation of problems, so when choosing this product, attention is paid to the manufacturer and material. Everything must be manufactured at the highest level so that unexpected malfunctions do not occur. It is advisable to provide a long warranty. We also must not forget about proper operation; compliance with these rules often extends the service life by 2 times.

Automatic equipment

Of course, there is no complete automation in this product; all actions are performed using mechanical forces, as in the previous version. There are also differences, for example, to open or close, an intermediate element, for example, a cable, is not used, all actions are performed directly. This mechanism is located in the drain neck.

Advantages of the system:

• Ease of use;
• Beautiful appearance;
• There are practically no breakdowns, since there are no transmission mechanisms.

Despite the positive aspects, such equipment also has disadvantages:

• To descend from a bathtub where there is a large amount of water, you will have to dip your hand in the liquid and press the corresponding button;
• If the valve fails, a person will have to buy a new model, since the product cannot be repaired;
• Sometimes there are breakdowns of the latch where a spring is used. However, this element can be replaced, the main thing is to use the same model.
• Low bandwidth.

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Manufacturers of modern siphons

Regardless of the siphon design you like, it is important that it is of high quality. And for this it is necessary that it be manufactured using modern equipment and new technologies, and during its production all existing standards must be observed.

The siphon, produced by Geberit (Switzerland), is expensive, but just look how great it looks. The aesthetic pleasure that you will receive from watching such beauty every day is also worth something

There is only one way to find such a siphon on your own: choose a manufacturer whose products have already proven themselves on the market on the positive side. Companies producing plumbing fixtures well-known on the domestic market include:

• Geberit (Switzerland). The company, which has been producing plumbing fixtures since 1874, is today a market leader that many product manufacturers look up to. The reason for the popularity of its products is simple: the company’s employees never stop at the achieved milestones. The growth in the living standards of consumers requires the development and implementation of the newest and most convenient devices. The company produces expensive products, the quality of which fully corresponds to the price.
• Ani plast (Russia). This company is a leading Russian manufacturer of plumbing fixtures made of plastic. All of its products have appropriate certificates and high quality ratings. Another advantage of Ani Plast models is their price: it is quite affordable for ordinary consumers.
• Viega (Germany). This manufacturer is distinguished by truly German scrupulousness: the entire process of manufacturing plumbing fixtures, starting with the quality of raw materials, is under the vigilant control of the company’s services. It is not surprising that all the company's products are certified. The prices for these products are high, but their long service life allows them to pay for themselves.

In this video clip you will see a semi-automatic siphon produced by the German company Viega, and learn about what features it has.

Siphon assembly

Assembling the pipe siphon is not difficult. The elements are sequentially put on each other. Assembling a bottle structure is more difficult. You will have to perform several additional steps. In all cases, measure the distance between the floor and the bathtub.

The assembly process includes the following steps:

• Formation of the flask. The bottom is screwed to the cylinder. The connection is sealed with a rubber gasket. Both ends of the drain tube are equipped with fixing nuts. This also requires installation of a seal. One end of the tube is inserted into the upper hole of the flask, the second will be connected to the neck of the siphon. The joints are coated with sealant.
• Overflow installation. The height of the hose must correspond to the location of the bathtub overflow hole. The parameter must be measured before installation work begins. If the indicators match, the overflow hose is connected to the desired outlet of the flask. The height of the collection pipe is adjustable. The part extends according to the principle of a telescope. The required length is given to the corrugated hose by stretching. A bend is formed at the desired point. The outlet and overflow pipe are connected using a nut. It is wound by hand using moderate effort.

Assembling a siphon for a bath.

Before tightening the screws, you need to make sure that the hole in the tub matches the diameter of the hose. When securing the overflow, place the gasket supplied with the siphon between the surfaces.

Features of connecting floor mixers

There is no point in talking about ways to connect faucets to the sides. Firstly, they are very rarely found on freestanding bathrooms. Secondly, the technology is the simplest and does not present any difficulties even for inexperienced craftsmen. Let's talk in detail about floor-standing types of faucets. These are quite complex devices and require preparatory work.

Step 1 . Please read the installation instructions carefully. The mixer has many components, find out which one goes where and in what order.

Floor mixer

Position of the bathtub and faucet mounting plate

Important. The upper plate for fixing the vertical mixer riser must be exactly at the level of the floor tiles.

Marking

Drilling holes

Attaching the plate to the floor

The plate needs to be checked with a level

Step 2. Connect cold and hot water to the mixer body, pay attention to the tightness of the connections, this part is located under the floor, in case of leakage there will be big troubles. In order to check the tightness, the installation part is closed with a lid and water pressure is applied. If possible, it is recommended to increase the water pressure to approximately twice as much as usual.

Connecting pipelines

The hot water pipe must be located under the bathtub

Step 3. The lower part is fixed with metal dowels to the floor covering. Place it on the surface, mark the locations of the holes and drill them. Make sure that the supporting surface is strictly horizontal. If there is a slope or large unevenness, then they should first be removed by any available method. Check the position with a level in all directions.

Step 4. Check the pipe connections again for tightness. Special plugs are sold complete with mixers; insert them into the outlets of the pipelines, close them with a plate and turn on the water supply again.

Leak test

Step 5. Remove the plate, fill the recess under the faucet base with mortar and lay the floor tiles. Cut holes in the tile to fit the dimensions of the metal mounting pad. If it is a little larger, it doesn’t matter, the decorative cover will hide all the flaws.

Installing the plate, pouring concrete, laying tiles on top of the concrete

Step 6. Remove the metal plate, remove the rubber plugs from the pipelines. Place a decorative cover on the riser.

Step 7. Screw the installation plate from below to the vertical riser of the mixer; from above, the plate is fixed to the element concreted under the floor using other holes. Tighten the bolts with great effort, no wobbling is allowed. Before installation, check the integrity of the rubber seals on the inlet fittings.

Installation plate flush with tiles

Mixer assembly, diagram

Mixer mount

Screwing the mounting plate

Decorative overlay

At this point, the most labor-intensive work is completed; assemble the remaining elements of the mixer into a single structure. The spout, taps, shower head and hose are installed without problems.

All that remains is to screw on the spout and shower hose

Rating of the best mechanical drains and overflows

AlcaPlast A501

A high-quality system that will protect the premises from the penetration of water and unpleasant odors. Thanks to the optimal diameter, draining the water does not take time. The structure consists of stainless steel elements, and the pipes are made of plastic. A cork with a chain is included.

The average price is 780 rubles.

AlcaPlast A501

Advantages:

• Low price;
• Easy installation;
• High quality cork;
• Trouble-free operation for ten years.

Flaws:

• Not found.

viega 6387.35 311 537

A budget model that is suitable for many people who do not want to overpay for unnecessary features. The kit includes a stopper that allows you to fill the bath to a specific level. The neck of the overflow and drain hole is large, so water flows out at high speed.

Sold at a price of 590 rubles.

viega 6387.35 311 537

Advantages:

• Efficiency;
• Quick drain;
• Durability;
• Easy installation.

Flaws:

• Not found.

WIRQUIN 30718058

An excellent system that will not allow water to flow beyond the boundaries of the bath. Made of high-quality stainless steel and corrugated pipe with a universal diameter for connection to the sewer. The product has no parts that are subject to wear, so the service life is unlimited.

Sold at a price of 580 rubles.

WIRQUIN 30718058

Advantages:

• Reliability;
• Universal connection;
• Beautiful appearance;
• Simplicity.

Flaws:

• Not found.

Materials used for the manufacture of siphons

For the manufacture of siphons the following are used:

• plastic. Plastic devices are durable and low cost. It is optimal to install such equipment on a bathtub with a protective screen, since the appearance of the device is not aesthetic;
• metal: brass, bronze, chrome steel and so on. Metal siphons are suitable for acrylic bathtubs, especially those installed in the center of the bathroom. The devices, having an elegant and neat appearance, can serve as additional elements of room decor;

Siphon made of copper and brass

• cast iron. Siphons made of cast iron are intended exclusively for bathtubs made of the same material. Currently, they are practically not used, as they are large in weight and size, and also require high installation accuracy.

Device made of cast iron

If the siphon is not visible to users, then it is enough to install a plastic device.

Breaking down a cast iron bathtub for removal in parts ↑

If you need to dismantle an old bathtub and install a new one, then the easiest and fastest way to get rid of outdated plumbing fixtures is to simply break them apart with a sledgehammer. Cast iron is a strong metal, but it cannot withstand a series of strong blows from a heavy hammer and will definitely crack. After this, it will not be difficult for even one person to remove small pieces from the apartment.

The only significant drawback of this method is the extreme noise produced during the breaking process. To reduce the need for knocking, you can use a grinder. The procedure will be as follows:

• As in the previous case, disconnect the plumbing from the communications, cut or otherwise dismantle the drain pipe.
• Free the bathtub from cement mortar around the perimeter. If there is a decorative screen, then it is broken with a chisel and hammer.
• Move the bowl a little away from the edge of the wall. Using a grinder, make cuts on the curved edges in the middle on both sides. It is these edges that give the bowl the necessary rigidity, so you need to saw them completely.

Next, all that remains is to hit the bottom with a sledgehammer a couple of times, after which the bathtub will “fold” exactly in the middle. The only thing that should not be forgotten throughout the entire demolition of sanitary equipment is eye protection. Use special masks or goggles, otherwise chipped pieces of enamel or shavings can cause injury.

Video: How to break a cast iron bathtub ↑

The work of dismantling communications, demolishing and removing an old bathtub is not extremely difficult, although its labor intensity for one person is quite significant. The greatest difficulty is caused by dismantling a cast iron drain, the stuck nut of which is almost impossible to unscrew without the help of, for example, a hammer drill. Breaking will also require significant physical effort, so it is better to do the work with an assistant or immediately seek help from a specialist.

Video: Complete elimination of plumbing systems using an angle grinder ↑

Siphon care

To ensure the durability and high performance of this plumbing fixture, it must be properly cared for. The bathtub siphon should be inspected regularly for leaks or mechanical (physical) damage.

Recommendations for caring for the siphon:

1. To avoid the accumulation of scale and other deposits on the walls, you need to flush the siphon with hot water and citric acid at least once every few months. You can also use special chemical cleaners (suitable for the material of your device). It could be “Phlox”, “Ruff” and others;
2. On average, every 6 months, rubber gaskets lose elasticity and become thinner. If the siphon begins to drip, this is a sure sign that it is time to replace them;
3. To prevent the drain in the bathroom from becoming clogged, you need to periodically clean the water seal. This is the place where water and various contaminants (hair, for example) collect. To do this, the water is shut off, the siphon is disassembled “up to the knee” and cleaned. Afterwards, the joint must be treated with sealant and wait for it to dry;
4. If cracks or chips are found during the next inspection, then the siphon needs to be replaced. Such faults cannot be repaired and pose a real danger of flooding the apartment.

Rating of semi-automatic systems

Kaiser bathroom waste and overflow brass

A beautiful device that will give your bath a rich appearance. Suitable for connection to various structures and sewerage systems. Closing and opening of the valve is carried out using a special head. The body is made of brass, which distinguishes the product from many similar products. The controls are convenient, and the cable is made of high quality, which allows it to withstand frequent use.

The average cost is 2,810 rubles.

Kaiser bathroom waste and overflow brass

Advantages:

• Beautiful external design;
• Reliability;
• High service life;
• Efficiency.

Flaws:

• Not found.

GEBERIT 150.520.21.1

A reliable model with a water seal that is suitable for installation in various bathtubs. The approximate service life is 10 years, but with proper use the product can function for 15 years. Connection diameter – 50, 52 mm. The pipe is made of durable plastic, the rotation mechanism and the lid are made of stainless steel.

The average price is 2,200 rubles.

GEBERIT 150.520.21.1

Advantages:

• Efficiency;
• Durability;
• Drain speed;
• High quality plastic;
• The presence of a water seal;
• Good equipment;
• Price.

Flaws:

• Rigid construction.

McALPINE MRB2CB-PB

High-quality equipment with a pipe siphon, designed for connection in the bathroom. The pipe is made of plastic, and the metal elements are made of stainless steel, which are coated with silver paint. The throughput is 50 liters per minute, which is a good result. Like the previous model, the average service life is 10 years.

Sold at a price of 1,950 rubles.

McALPINE MRB2CB-PB

Advantages:

• High-quality organization of drainage;
• Easy connection;
• Durability;
• Bandwidth;
• Value for money.

Flaws:

• Not found.

Selection rules

Choosing a siphon is quite difficult, since it is presented in a huge number of types, differing in design, functions performed, material of creation and other parameters. In the selection process, the method of fastening the product must be taken into account, and this is especially true if you plan to do the installation work yourself.

The simplest installation is considered to be one that uses bolts to secure metal outlets. However, removing the pipes for cleaning will be difficult, and all metal parts are subject to corrosion. If you plan to create a room in a certain unique style, then you often choose a special frame for the overflow washbasin that matches the design.

During the selection process, it is important to check that the kit includes all the necessary elements for installation and operation of the product. It is advisable to take into account important factors when selecting a model:

• there must be a grate covering the drain and overflow, which will provide protection against various foreign objects entering the sewer;
• the kit must certainly include a plug that covers the drain hole, and it can be made of plastic or rubber, and is also fixed to the overflow with a chain;
• the manufacturer of the product is taken into account, since it must be reliable and proven;
• the material from which the structure is made must be ideally suited for the bathtub itself or other plumbing fixture, and must also be of high quality, durability and resistance to numerous exposure factors found in the bathroom;
• cost is also considered an important parameter for many buyers, and automatic designs are considered the most expensive, so they are usually installed in bathrooms designed in a luxurious and unique style;
• parameters of the bathtub or sink for which the product is selected, since installation can be simple and quick only if both elements match perfectly.

It is not recommended to purchase siphons equipped with components made of hard materials, as this significantly complicates the installation process, so flexible tubes are considered optimal.

Thus, the process of choosing a high-quality siphon for any plumbing fixture is an important point in increasing the comfort of water procedures. It is presented in several varieties, differing in design, material of creation and other parameters. In the selection process, it is recommended to take into account the advice of experts in order to get a truly high-quality and durable product that copes well with its main tasks.

Types and features of siphons

Depending on the material, plumbing siphons come in 2 types:

• plastic;
• metal.

The advantages of polymer drainage devices include:

• ease of installation;
• low cost;
• resistance to mold growth;
• resistance to corrosion.

Disadvantages of plastic siphons:

• Limited service life. Often, a metal cable is used to deal with a clog in the sink; if handled carelessly, it can destroy the fragile polymer material.
• Insufficient tightness. To solve the problem of loose fitting of the nuts during assembly, the fastening structures are supplemented with rubber seals.
• Increased likelihood of leaks caused by manufacturing defects. Small irregularities on the surface during operation lead to the appearance of cracks.

Copper, brass, cast iron, and stainless steel are used for the production of metal siphons. The reliability and durability of cast iron drains explain the high cost. The chrome plating adds an aesthetically pleasing appearance. The disadvantage is the complicated installation technology.

Based on design features, drainage devices are divided into 3 types:

• Tubular. Manufactured from a curved hose with an S- or U-shape configuration.
• Bottled. They are made in the form of a flask, which is filled with water during operation. To carry wastewater into the sump, a pipe of smaller diameter is connected to the tank. Having reached a given level, the liquid overflows and flows into the sewer. Siphons do not dry out during interruptions in water supply.
• Combined. The design consists of a corrugated hose connected to a flask. The systems are installed in bathrooms of multi-storey buildings.

According to the principle of operation, drainage devices are:

• Universal. Standard siphons are characterized by the absence of unnecessary elements. A plug is used to regulate the water level. A simplified installation technology is provided.
• Semi-automatic. They differ from the previous version by the presence of a special mechanism that remotely controls the drainage. The fragility of the semi-automatic device requires extreme caution during installation and gentle operation.
• Automatic. The systems lack most standard parts. Regulating the sewer connection area is the task of the built-in mechanism. According to the control principle, they are divided into 2 categories: with a manual lever and “click-clack”.

It is recommended to install a universal siphon. Drain repair is simple and can be done with your own hands.

Types of siphons depending on design

Depending on the design, there are the following types of these products.

Flat. The design of such a device allows for their installation in limited space. The main part of the device, in which a water seal is formed and debris accumulates, is located horizontally. In order to clean the flat bath siphon, it is necessary to partially dismantle it.

Flat siphon - ideal for installation in confined spaces

Pipe. Such devices are made from pipe sections of different lengths, joined in a certain sequence. Pipes in this design have sufficient rigidity. This bathroom siphon is more compact than the previous type, however, due to the lack of a compartment in which debris is concentrated, cleaning it is more difficult.

Bottled. This type is distinguished by the presence of a special compartment, which is shaped like a bottle (hence the name). Garbage is collected in this compartment, and there is also a water seal in it. Bottle siphons are quite large in size compared to other types, so their installation is only possible if there is enough free space under the bathtub. Such devices can be periodically cleaned without completely disassembling the structure, which is very convenient.

Corrugated. They are distinguished by the simplest design, which includes a “drain-overflow” type device and a soft pipe.
The pipe can be bent in any desired direction. A corrugated siphon for a bathtub has one drawback - the rapid formation of a blockage. This is due to the fact that the ribbed walls trap foreign particles. In addition, connecting the overflow element often causes difficulties.

Required materials and tools

To change the drain device, you will need a minimum set of tools consisting of a screwdriver, pliers and a wrench.

Before starting work, the completeness of the factory delivery of the sanitary siphon is checked, including:

• frame;
• drain pipe;
• decorative grille masking the drain;
• cuffs made of rubber and polymers;
• fastening hardware (bolts and nuts);
• elastic gaskets for sealing joints.

If one or more items are missing, the missing parts must be purchased separately.

In addition, high-quality installation work is impossible without additional materials:

• tow or rags;
• sealing composition based on silicone or rubber;
• FUM tapes.

When dismantling, you will need a container to drain the water. A large bucket or basin will do.

How to assemble a bath drain device

All models that come in boxes come with detailed assembly instructions.

Assemble the siphon in the bathroom in this order:

1. The part attached to the plug is secured to the overflow cover.
2. A rubber gasket is inserted into the pipe, after which it is brought from below to the outlet hole.
3. The seals should be directed toward the nut with the wide part and the neck with the narrow part.
4. A protective element equipped with a seal is inserted into the drain hole from the inside of the bath.
5. Both gaskets must be secured with a screw. In some models it is possible to find a threaded plug, then it is screwed directly into the pipe.

Classification of siphons according to drain design

The adapter design includes 2 units:

• A drain block that is attached under the bathtub and is designed to drain water.
• Overflow pipe. Its presence prevents liquid from draining through the top. The overflow hole is located at the end of the tank near the edges.

Depending on how the opening and closing of the drainage hole are regulated, there are 3 types of siphons: mechanical, semi-automatic and automatic.

Mechanical

The devices have the simplest design - the drain channel is blocked by a plug made of rubber or plastic. It is connected to the hole in the overflow pipe using a chain. Such adapters are easy to assemble, are reliable, durable and low in price.

Semi-automatic

In semi-automatic siphons, adjustment is carried out using a shut-off valve located on the overflow above the water level. It can take the form of a button, a rotary ring or a shaped valve. Control occurs using a cable or lever mechanism connected to the hole cover.

When purchasing, it is recommended to choose fittings from leading manufacturers, since the durability and uninterrupted operation of the mechanisms depend on this.

Automatic

In devices of this type, the process of filling the bath is regulated by built-in automation. When the liquid cools, it is drained and warm water is added to the required volume. Such systems require regular maintenance and no power interruptions. Automatic siphons are produced in 2 versions:

• With click-clack system. The plug is fixed on a pin, which is activated by simply pressing.
• With a handle located next to the overflow hole. The devices differ from semi-automatic devices in their built-in protection system.

Siphon with click-clack system.

They are made from brass and copper alloys, coated with a layer of chromium for protection.

Pros and cons of cast iron baths

Once upon a time, such baths were the only item in the assortment offered by Soviet industry. Then steel bathtubs appeared, and later acrylic ones. Now in the European plumbing market, approximately a quarter of the total number of bathtubs sold are cast iron. They have been surpassed in popularity by more modern acrylic ones.

Cast iron bathtubs, like other items, have their pros and cons. The first include:

1. heavy weight. This is very convenient to use - wherever you put it, it stays there. No backlash or “festivities”, you can safely cover it with tiles or bricks. At the same time, heavy weight is also a disadvantage, complicating the process of transportation and installation;
2. thermal insulation. Maintains water temperature very well. Perfect for those who like to splash around in a hot bath for a long time;
3. soundproofing. The process of filling the bathtub and draining the water is almost silent;
4. durability. Made of durable metal, the bathtubs faithfully serve several generations of consumers. But, of course, subject to good care;
5. practicality. Do not require any special cleaning methods. It is advisable not to use abrasive cleaners and not to drop anything hard, otherwise you are guaranteed to get chips on the enamel;

Cast iron bath

Considering the features of cast iron bathtubs, one cannot help but mention their disadvantages. There are not many disadvantages to this type of product. It has already been said about their large mass. They also have a limited variety of shapes due to the specific manufacturing process. But modern manufacturers are trying to diversify their products by equipping bathtubs with stylish and comfortable handles, and providing special anti-slip notches on the bottom. There are also cast iron whirlpool baths.

Diagnosis of a faulty siphon

In order to determine the causes of the leak, the siphon must be inspected and disassembled. This work does not require any tools, since connection and disassembly is carried out solely by hand force. Using different keys can only aggravate the situation, since under their pressure the plastic can burst. This also applies to metal siphons. When assembling them, steel bolts are used, which over years of operation become tightly attached to the nuts and body of the product.

• Pour strong detergent into the drain hole. After some time, rinse the sink drainage system with boiling water. This technique will allow you to remove dirt, plaque, food waste and all fat deposits from the pipes and siphon, which will greatly facilitate further work.
• Prepare a bucket and rags to collect liquid that will inevitably spill when disassembling the siphon. In order not to breathe sewer gases, you need to buy a plug that is the same size as the drain pipe. Modern plastic systems use pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. Prepare liquid soap to lubricate the rubber cuff.

Doesn't work well: what to do?

Over time, many users encounter poor performance of the siphon and the entire drainage system as a whole. The causes of such problems may lie in improper installation of all components of the structure or in clogged pipes.

Mechanical blockages

Mechanical blockage of pipes can be caused by sand and pebbles from shoes, animal hair, human hair and many other similar little things getting into their interior. All these components certainly lead to serious blockage of both the pipes and the siphon itself. Because of this, the water from the bathtub usually drains very poorly and slowly.

This problem can only be resolved by thoroughly cleaning the pipes. However, in order to avoid such events, it is worth installing a special fine mesh on the drain hole, which will prevent foreign particles from entering the pipes and siphon.

Operational

Such blockages usually result from simple improper use of the bathtub. In this case, clogging of the pipes and siphon may occur due to dirt and particles that should remain on the protective mesh, but, unfortunately, not everyone uses it. In addition, a combination of grease and cold water often leads to operational blockages.

Technogenic

Water may not drain well due to an inexperienced technician who made many mistakes while renovating the bathroom in your home. Or maybe the fact is that the installation or replacement of plumbing in the room was not carried out according to technology. For example, you could have chosen the wrong level for installing objects or made the wrong drainage slope as it should be.

To get rid of these problems, you need to either dismantle the plumbing (if it is installed incorrectly) or remove blockages that have accumulated in the pipes.

• Thoroughly clean the siphon and drain - these are the main and vulnerable places where garbage collects first. To do this, you need to remove the siphon and unscrew the protective mesh behind it. Please note that this must be done with both the bathtub and the sink in the room.

• Now shake out all the removed parts into the toilet.
• Then thoroughly rinse the siphon, completely free of contaminants, and with it all tubes, bowls, gaskets and protective mesh.
• Wash all parts with a brush and a high-quality cleaning agent that has a degreasing effect.
• Do the same with the mesh located on the sewer openings - these are the central areas where blockages accumulate.
• Clean the corrugations that lead directly to the sewer.

You can also clean pipes and corrugations mechanically. While the external elements of the drain are drying, mechanical devices should be used to clean the system. For this purpose, a cable with a handle is most often used. It should be screwed into the depth of the sewer, trying to lower it as low as possible. After this, you need to remove the cable and repeat the work done. It is advisable to do this several times to be sure of the ideal frequency of the pipes.

Next, you should move on to chemical sewer cleaning. To do this, it is necessary to pour chemical compounds into the sewer that are designed directly to break down fats and soften plaque. There are quite a lot of such funds. Some of the most popular are products such as “Mole”, “Tone”, “Tiret” and others. It is recommended to leave these products on for 15-20 minutes. Some wait a little longer than 40-50 minutes. After the required amount of time, you should turn on the water in the bath for 10-15 minutes to remove all aggressive chemicals.

Repair Tips

Before removing the installed product, place a basin or bucket under the tank so that the water accumulated in it does not fall on the floor.

Immediately after disassembling the siphon, you need to clean all parts of dirt and old sealant in order to assess their safety and degree of wear. After completing assembly of the product, reapply the sealant. After tightening all the elements, do not forget to remove excess sealant.

When assembling the elements, you do not need to exert much effort. This is especially true for plastic models, in which it is very easy to break the thread or cause a crack to appear. First you need to assemble the entire structure, and only then tighten the individual parts.

If rust has formed where the siphon is connected to the plumbing or sewer system, remove it before installing the device.

If you have a double-sided siphon model, then when replacing gaskets in one part of it, it is better to immediately replace them in the second half of the product, because the service life of identical gaskets usually differs little. The same applies to products with a hole inside the flask for connecting a washing machine or dishwasher.

In cases where the thread of the sump cover is partially damaged, you can not rush to change the part, but limit yourself to applying additional layers of silicone sealant on both sides of the gasket.

How to properly assemble a siphon for a sink with water overflow

Criteria for choosing a bath siphon

What should you pay attention to when buying a bathroom siphon? There are several rules, guided by which we can purchase the product you need.

• Not all bathtubs may be suitable for standard drainage devices. In particular, this rule applies to custom-made bowls. Before you go shopping, measure the distance from the overflow to the drain and the diameters of the drain holes. If the corrugation can be stretched a little, then the metal model must be selected, strictly taking into account the dimensions of a particular bathtub.
• The siphon design should not be pressed very tightly against the floor or the bottom of the bowl. If the space under the bathtub is too small, try to find a flat model that is horizontal.
• As a rule, a siphon in a bathroom is needed not only for a bath. If a bidet, washbasin and washing machine are also located here, then the drainage devices from all these plumbing fixtures can be replaced with a single model, which will have several inlets.
• The price of the product should not be the determining factor in your choice. It is important that the siphon is reliable and of high quality. Then it will protect your property from possible leaks.
• Check the product for completeness: all the elements that are necessary to connect the siphon to the bathtub bowl and to the sewer drain must be included in the kit. It is also worth inspecting the device to make sure that there is no damage on it that could significantly reduce its service life.

The completeness of the siphon must be checked before purchasing it: the kit must include all the elements necessary to assemble the device itself and carry out its installation

Make your choice based on all the rules listed above, without excluding any. Pay special attention to modern models, because this device should serve you for a long time.

Automatic drains and overflows

AlcaPlast A504KM

An excellent model that is distinguished by high-quality workmanship and a long service life. Drain diameter - 52 mm. The main components are made of brass and stainless steel. A special feature of the equipment is the ability to adjust the height, which greatly simplifies installation operations. The diameter of the metal plug is 70 mm. The grille is made of high-quality alloy, which shows high resistance to corrosion.

The average price is 2,850 rubles.

AlcaPlast A504KM

Advantages:

• Optimal price;
• Convenient control;
• Efficiency;
• Durability;
• Quick drain;
• Easy connection.

Flaws:

• Not found.

Timo 8004 Chrome

An automatic model, distinguished by its beautiful appearance and high price. The diameter of the hole for connecting to the sewer pipe is 4 cm. Thanks to this device, it will be easier to control the water level in the bathroom, and the original design will add attractiveness to the room. The body is made of chrome-plated brass, which shows high resistance to high temperatures and household chemicals.

The average price is 4,700 rubles.

Timo 8004 Chrome

Advantages:

• External execution;
• High service life;
• Made from wear-resistant materials;
• Universal connection sizes;
• Withstands aggressive substances;
• 5 years warranty.

Flaws:

• Not found.

Practical advice

Freestanding bathtubs come not only with legs; there are models installed on the bottom surface. Such bathtubs are made of artificial or natural stone or thick plastic. Advantages – the bath is more stable. Disadvantage: connecting engineering systems becomes more complicated. Pipelines must be pre-laid before working on floor coverings. There is no other option - it will not be possible to connect in a sewer pipe.

Another problem with this type of bathtub is that there is no way to clean the pipelines from accumulated dirt. Special detergents are not always effective and often fail to remove stains. Practitioners advise that for such bathtubs it is imperative to use mesh filters on the drain holes. They trap hair, which is what cleaners don't dissolve.

Sewage filter

The stone baths are massive and require very hot water to warm them to a comfortable temperature. If the house has one boiler for heating and heating hot water, then its power is often not enough to quickly heat a large volume of water to the desired temperature. Conclusion - before installing a massive bathtub, you need to find out the power of the boiler. If necessary, replace it with a more productive one.

Massive stone bath

Taking a bath is a long procedure; the water will have time to cool down in any bath. You have to constantly add warm water. This means that the excess will constantly go into overflow. Most siphons are designed for short-term overflow operation and are equipped with unreliable seals. Practitioners advise replacing them with new ones with improved sealing characteristics. It is advisable not to use ordinary rubber ones, but to purchase modern polyurethane ones. They are somewhat more expensive, but have improved physical characteristics. They are easily compressed and provide a tight fit over the entire plane to uneven surfaces. The main advantage is that polyurethane does not have the effect of residual deformation and retains plasticity for a long time. Due to these qualities, the tightness of the connection is guaranteed for many years.

Sink siphon dimensions

There are the following sizes of outlets for sink siphons:

• Stainless steel sink outlet 1.1/4″
  ;
• Stainless steel for sink 1.1/2″
  Unicorn;
• E150P Release 3.1/2″
  (stainless steel cup with a diameter of 112 mm) Unicorn;
• E157 Release 3.1/2″
  (stainless steel cup with a diameter of 112 mm, round and rectangular overflow) Unicorn;
• Washbasin outlet 1.1/4″
  , click-clack system with overflow hole (round);
• Washbasin outlet 1.1/4
  ", click-clack system with overflow hole (square).

Important: When choosing a siphon, carefully look at the name. If the siphon is for the washbasin, then it is for the bathroom, if for the sink, then it is for the kitchen!

But how to choose the right one? You may notice there are different hole sizes: 1 ½, 3 ½ and 1 ¼. The 1 ½ diameter size is most often found in small sinks, in the bathroom, in older models and in the additional bowl of one and a half sinks. The diameter of the hole in the sink or bathtub for this siphon should be about 42-48 mm. There is no single standard for the hole, but since the connection of the siphon to the sink hole is made by pressing the siphon through the gasket on both sides, the diameter of the hole can be different.

The modern standard for kitchen sink drain holes according to European standards is 3 ½ (approximate diameter 90-92mm). Sinks with this diameter are installed in the kitchen and, due to the size of the hole, they allow water to drain faster, and are also less likely to become clogged when leftover food gets in, compared to other sinks. The opening size is also increased in case you want to install the waste disposer in the sink.

Based on this, we can conclude: if you are looking for a siphon for a bathtub sink and the diameter of the hole for the drain is 42-48 mm, then a siphon of size 1 ½ will suit you. If you are installing a sink in the kitchen and your hole in the sink has a diameter of 90-92mm, then take a siphon with a diameter of 3 ½.

Siphons Unicorn

The MasterProf company, being an exclusive partner of the Unicorn plant, has in its assortment a wide range of items from this brand.

Siphons from the Unicorn company are a new generation of siphons on the Russian market.

Initially, when designing siphons, the main emphasis was on the convenience of the end user. Thus, siphons under the Unicorn brand have acquired a number of unique advantages:

1. The Unicorn plant was the first in Russia to begin production of siphons with integrated thermoplastic elastomer gaskets. This innovation allowed the end consumer to spend significantly less time assembling the siphon, and allowed stores selling these siphons to avoid a large number of defects associated with understaffing.
2. 3 ½ outlet siphons for kitchen sinks were originally made universal and are suitable for all sink manufacturers. The set includes overflows of both round and rectangular shapes.
3. The siphon is made of high-quality virgin polypropylene. Polypropylene is a more elastic material than plastic. For comparison, many manufacturers mix chalk and recycled plastic to reduce the cost.
4. All gaskets for Unicorn siphons are made of thermoplastic elastomer (this material is used for car panels, dental abrasions, etc.), this material is not subject to mechanical stress and does not change its characteristics when exposed to temperature. Due to reliable gaskets, the siphon can be disassembled up to 50 times, while other manufacturers use rubber or PVC gaskets. When disassembling such siphons, the gaskets quickly fail and the siphon begins to leak.
5. At the time of its appearance, the flat siphon for the Unicorn bath was the lowest siphon among Russian manufacturers. This siphon is suitable for bathtubs and shower trays installed at a height of at least 8.5 cm.
6. All siphons are equipped with a universal corrugated pipe that provides connection to sewer pipes with a diameter of 40 or 50 mm.
7. The factory provides a 12-year warranty on its products!

How to choose a siphon

Siphon manufacturers use several terms to refer to sinks:

• A washbasin is another name for a sink, a bowl-shaped device designed for washing hands;
• Tulip is the name given to a sink with a faience floor stand;
• The sink is the most common name for a kitchen sink. They are distinguished by an enlarged drain hole. This means that quite large food waste can go down the drain from the kitchen sink. Or the consumer may want to place the disposer waste in the sink.

For a general understanding, we will combine all these names into one - shell.

To make a decision on buying a siphon you need to know:

1. Diameter of the sink drain hole;
2. Is there an additional hole in the sink to prevent overflow?
3. Round or square overflow hole;
4. Do you need an additional hole to connect a washing machine or dishwasher?
5. What diameter of the sewer pipe is provided for connecting the siphon.

By answering these questions, you can easily select the necessary siphon for your sink. Let's go in order.

Drain hole diameter

You can compare the diameter of the drain hole with the siphon using the table:

Diameter of the drain hole in the sink, mm	Designation of the required siphon
90-94	3 1/2″
42-48 mm	1 1/2

An overflow is a hole in the top of the sink that protects the owner from flooding if, for example, he left the water on and closed the drain hole. It can be built into the sink. For example, in porcelain sinks, the overflow hole directly in the porcelain mass is connected to the drain hole by a special channel.

Figure 1. Sink with built-in overflow

Fig 2. Sink with overflow

Overflow hole shape

There are two types of holes: square and round. You just need to look at the shape of the hole on the sink and choose a siphon with the same overflow shape.

Some manufacturers (for example Unicorn) supply siphons with overflow of two types in a set (Fig. 3). Accordingly, one is installed, the second is sent to the trash.

Fig 3. Square and round overflow in one set

Hole for connecting a washing machine or dishwasher

This question is simple. Either the machine needs to be connected to a siphon, or it doesn’t. All manufacturers write what additional holes they have. If you need to connect both a washing machine and a dishwasher, then there are siphons with two hooks for connecting them.

If you bought a siphon with a hole for connecting a washing machine or dishwasher, but you didn’t need it, then you don’t need to worry. You can safely use a siphon without connecting these holes. The structure of the beak for connecting the machine is made specifically to avoid leaks. Some manufacturers include plugs for extra holes in the kit.

Sewage pipe diameter

Everything is simple here too. In Russia, pipes with a diameter of 40mm or 50mm are most often used to connect sinks. Accordingly, at the end of the siphon name there is a designation of the connection diameter. If you have a 40 mm pipe, you choose a siphon with the designation 40. Sometimes, from siphon manufacturers you can find the designation 40/50. This means that the kit includes a universal corrugation with a connection diameter of 40 or 50 mm. In case you need a 50mm connection, you simply insert the end of the corrugated pipe into the sewer pipe. If you have a sewer outlet with a diameter of 40 mm, you simply cut off the end of the corrugated pipe (50 mm in diameter) just below the step and get a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm.

In European countries and less often in Russia, you can also find pipes with a 32 mm connection. Most often, this connection diameter is for siphons with an outlet size of 1 ¼. These parameters are also indicated in the name of the siphon from any manufacturer.

It is worth writing separately about the location of the sewer pipe to which the siphon is connected. After all, it can come out both from their walls and from the floor. In the case of using flexible corrugated pipe, this does not matter much. You can connect from any location. If you are a supporter of rigid pipe connections, then it is important to focus on this when choosing a siphon and select it with the desired connection.

There is also a small nuance regarding the length of the screw used in the siphon. Some manufacturers write screw parameters, and some do not. The screw in the siphon connects (or rather tightens) the upper cup with a mesh located in the sink drain with the lower part of the siphon. There are two types of screws: plastic (economy option) and metal (normal option). Metal screws come in different lengths from 40 to 80mm. You should pay attention to the length of the screw if you have a very large distance between the sink drain and its lower part or, in other words, a large height of the sink drain hole.

Now you can easily understand what the designations mean in the names of siphons 1 1/2″ *40 (siphon with a 1 ½ outlet and with a 40mm sewer connection) or 1 1/4″ *32 with a flexible pipe 32*32/40 (siphon with 1 ¼ outlet with 32 or 40 mm connection)

To make it easier to select Unicorn siphons, we have made a sign for you:

View table

There is a misconception that the siphon bowl (or flask) is designed to stop dirt that can clog the drain. Actually this is not true. The flasks are designed so that dirt is removed from it as much as possible. Its only purpose is to prevent unpleasant odors and bacteria from entering the sewer system.

What is the difference between 1.1/2” and 1.1/4” siphons

First of all, it’s worth deciding what is meant when 1.1/2” or 1.1/4” is written in the designation of siphons.

The siphon is connected to the sink by means of a release bowl or simply a release. The outlet can be cast or detachable. In a cast outlet (Fig. 1), the outlet bowl and the pipe connecting the outlet bowl and the siphon form a single unit. In a detachable version (Fig. 2), the bowl and pipe are connected via a threaded connection, the size of which is indicated when labeling the product (most often it is 1.1/2”, less often 1.1/4”).

That is, the first difference is the thread diameter on the outlet bowl is 1.1/2”, less often 1.1/4”. The second difference is the diameter of the outlet pipe - on siphons marked 1.1/2” the diameter of the pipe connecting the outlet bowl and the siphon is 40mm, and in siphons marked 1.1/4” (Fig. 3 and 4) the diameter of the pipe is 32mm (the smaller size of the connecting pipe is noticeably reduces the capacity of the siphon as a whole, therefore siphons marked 1.1/4” are rarely installed and are recommended only for washbasins).

A regular siphon with a mesh is attached to the sink by pulling the mesh lying on top of the sink opening and releasing it under the sink. It is worth noting that if you have a chrome outlet with a click-clack system on your sink, most often it has a bottom connection diameter of 1 ¼. Such outlets are inserted entirely with all the threads into the sink from above, and screwed to the siphon from below. Then you will need a siphon with a 1 ¼ detachable outlet (Fig. 4).

Leak test

After installing the siphon, you must wait a day for everything to “sit” in place and for the sealant to completely harden. Leak tests are carried out as follows: a large amount of water is poured into the bath. The plug should cover the drain. Be sure to check for leaks at the very first stages. If everything is in order, continue drawing water. When the bath is half full, open the plug and watch the siphon. If leaks appear, mark the places so that you can cover everything with sealant in the future. To test the overflow, take a few scoops of water and pour it into the hole. Observe the presence or absence of leaks. This can also be done using a shower, directing it towards the overflow.

The absence of leaks is a sign that the replacement of the siphon in the bathroom was completed successfully. As a rule, if you follow the instructions, everything goes without any problems.

What is a siphon

A siphon is a special device consisting of one or more pipes and containers and is used to connect plumbing fixtures to wastewater disposal systems. Thanks to its design and bends, it creates a plug between the sewer and the room that is impenetrable for air exchange, preventing the penetration of odors and bacteria into the room.

Siphons are used in various rooms, including a kitchen, bathroom, shower stall. They differ from each other in structure, material and drainage overlap, and size. Despite the differences, all types have a similar structure of the main parts, including:

• Frame;
• Pipes;
• Drain;
• Bends;
• Connecting nuts and screws;
• Seals for sealing.

Siphons wholesale

offers to purchase siphons in bulk with the possibility of delivery throughout Russia and the CIS countries. We are a direct supplier to the manufacturer of siphons and are engaged in wholesale supplies of engineering plumbing to private construction and plumbing stores, as well as to DIY hypermarkets. Among our assortment there is a large range of siphon models to suit any need.

Over the years, we have established partnerships with many stores and suppliers. Examples of our work.

Our specialists will help you organize your own business and select the necessary products.

Still have questions? Call or write - we will answer. Phone E-mail Address: St. Petersburg, st. Zastavskaya, 5/1.

Rules for installation work

Having experience installing a mechanical drain in a bathroom, you won’t need a circuit for a semi-automatic one - it is almost identical. Even without the skills, you can master it with your own hands, but first, it is advisable to read the instructions and documents that come with the kit.

The manufacturer's recommendations regarding the installation of the bathtub trim should be followed exactly. Otherwise, the device may not work or function incorrectly. It is not recommended to take on automatic systems: after installation without the participation of a specialist, the warranty on the device ceases to apply.

At the first stage, the old siphon, if any, is removed, and the insides of the pipe and the junction areas are thoroughly cleaned. Then the lower overflow is installed. A sealing collar is put on the outlet, after which it is placed against the drain opening.

Before installing the drain and overflow, it does not hurt to make sure that the bathtub is positioned correctly, stable and level and that the gap from the drain hole to the floor is at least 15 centimeters

Another gasket is placed on the inside of the hole, the lid with the grill is screwed on and secured with a screw. Cone-type cuffs are placed with the thick edge towards the nut, and the narrow edge towards the neck.

After checking that the connection is correct, tighten the screw with a screwdriver. The top overflow is installed using a similar method.

Tying under the bathtub is quite difficult. Most likely, you will have to take an awkward position to get to the right places. To fasten the inner and outer parts of the drain structure, it is advisable to work with a partner

The next stage is attaching the overflow to the drain. To do this, it is more convenient to use a flexible corrugated hose that stretches to a size that will easily fit into the pipe. Each joint is crimped with a nut and spacers.

Next, a glass is installed to form a water seal. Places for gaskets are first cleaned of defects with a file. The valve is also connected with a union nut with a flat or cone seal.

At the end, the siphon outlet is connected to the sewer with a drain pipe. This is done through the sealing collar or directly into the socket. To avoid leaks that occur due to cuff wear, they are treated with silicone lubricant.

When performing installation, do not use excessive physical force. Because of this, the strapping elements may burst, and you will have to buy new parts.

When the installation work is completed, you need to check the quality of the assembly by covering the drain with a stopper and opening the water. The floor under the bathroom is covered with paper, the drain and connections are inspected. When leaks are detected, the nuts are tightened.

Design and principle of operation

Sewage equipment, consisting of 2 mains, is responsible for the continuous circulation of water. Through one pipe the liquid is supplied to the point of consumption, through the other it is drained and removed from the system.

A siphon is a special design that regulates the level of inflow and outflow of water.

The second function of the drainage device is to prevent the spread of unpleasant odors emanating from the sewer system by forming a special seal. It is created by liquid retained in the system after passing siphon bends. The operating principle is based on this.

In addition, the drainage device performs a filtration function. Dirt and mechanical impurities contained in the water supply line settle at the bottom.

Structurally, the siphon is made from a small flask-shaped container filled with water. Pipes are connected to the device on both sides. When the permissible level is filled or exceeded, an overflow occurs and excess liquid goes into the sewer.

Drain installation

Before fastening, you need to turn off the water and find out the density of the pipelines. If the sewer pipe is made of PVC, a threaded connection with a gasket is used. In the case of a metal pipe or a mismatch in diameter, it will be necessary to buy a rubber adapter. The siphon pipe must extend into it at least 5 cm, and sealant is also used. After assembling and tightening all connections, check the tightness. To do this, fill the bath until water passes through the outlet hole.

Installing a simple overflow system

Before changing the siphon, you need to install the bathtub and secure it firmly. In normal factory-made equipment, the height of the product allows you to insert a drain without difficulty. In a simple overflow system, the siphon can be solid or rotary with a nut fixing the position. There is a hole at the bottom of the bathtub to which the bathtub overflow is connected. There is an internal thread in the lower part, and a grille in the upper part that protects the siphon.

Installation and replacement of a bathroom drain is carried out as follows:

1. Start installation from the bottom.
2. The set contains 2 rubber gaskets. One needs to be placed on top and, together with the siphon, brought to the bottom of the bathtub into the drain hole.
3. Then you should screw the upper part with the gasket to the lower one and secure it with pliers.
4. It is necessary to connect the drain pipe to the sewer.

Installation of a semi-automatic siphon

The semi-automatic version is a bathroom drain device, complemented by a cable connecting the holes. When you turn the lid located on the overflow, the lower hole will open or close. In this way, the leading outlet from the bath can be kept under control.

The assembly of the semi-automatic drain must be performed in the following order:

• find out the compliance of outlet and sewer pipes;
• attach the equipment to the drain and overflow holes;
• connect the drainage part to the sewerage system;
• tighten the threaded connections;
• check for tightness and absence of leaks.

Installation of an automatic siphon

The process of installing such a drain in a bathroom and the order of work are somewhat different from installing a conventional system. Execution order:

1. The first step is to assemble the main part of the siphon.
2. Next comes the connection of the automatic system of this drain. The procedure is almost the same as for a conventional device.
3. After installing the siphon on the bath, check the water seal.