Heating a garage is the most economical way and popular heating systems


Insulation of a cellar in a garage Insulation of a cellar in a garage should be carried out without fail. Not only the safety of the products, but the climate in the room itself will depend on this. After all, dampness will penetrate there too. As a result, fungus may begin to appear. It is best to do all the work during the construction stage. But if this has not been done, the work can be done later. True, this will be a little more difficult to do. Today we will look at the question of how to insulate a basement in a garage in detail. You will have the opportunity to watch photos and videos on this topic and choose the desired insulation option. Instructions for performing this work will also be provided.

Self-made dehumidifier

Before starting work, you need to determine how exactly moisture will be extracted from the air.

Desiccant desiccant

They are cut into two parts, and holes are made in the bottom with a hot awl or knitting needle. The upper half is placed in one part of the bottle with the neck turned down, and the cork is also pierced in several places. Apply silicone gel, about 250 grams.

With the second bottle, they carry out other work - they cut off the bottom, put a cooler inside, which blows into the cut hole. A pressure unit is made at a distance of 7 or 10 centimeters from the bottom, after which the structure is placed on a bottle with gel.

All joints are sealed with tape. The cap of the second bottle is removed or replaced with gauze. This ensures free air flow.

The fan forces air masses into the desiccant, and then the air comes out through the gauze. If the gel loses its absorbent properties over time, simply dry it in the oven for about 3 hours. Thus, air dehumidification occurs without noise and is quite effective.

Condensing dryer

You will need an old refrigerator, screws and sealant, a simple heater, computer coolers, plexiglass and a rubber hose. Remove the door from the refrigerator, setting the plexiglass sheet to size, keeping the thickness to 3 mm.

Fans are mounted in such a panel, retreating from the edges by 30-40 centimeters. The fan grilles are treated with sealant and fixed with self-tapping screws. This will be the supply part of the system, pushing air inside the refrigerator.

The top of the plate is equipped with several small holes to allow cooled, dry air to escape. The area of ​​all openings must be equal to the size of the fan.

Alternatively, the air can be removed by a second fan, which is placed on top. This will dry the air by 8%, reducing the temperature by 5 degrees.

This model can be further improved by adding a heater. It is mounted at the top of the device or on plexiglass

It is important to make an intersection of the air flows entering through the fan inside and the dried air flowing out

Although outwardly such a dehumidifier for the basement does not look attractive, it significantly saves the cost of purchasing ready-made devices and effectively removes moisture from the basement.

Ready-made dehumidifiers

Basement dehumidification is based on increasing the dryness of the air and drawing moisture out of the walls. Typically these are fans that circulate raw air to the evaporator. There it cools and dehydrates. The flow passes through the condenser, which is accompanied by heating. And the output is dry and warm air, filling the room.

Air exchange

The most significant characteristic of the device, on which the efficiency of the equipment depends. Determines the number of cubic meters of surface to be drained per hour of operation. The air exchange in the room should exceed the size of the room several times. Only under this condition will an acceptable result be achieved.

Operating temperature

A condensation type dryer is used at 15 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is lower, about 10 degrees, then the device will spend too much energy on defrosting and heating the air. In this mode, it would be optimal to use an adsorbing type of device.

Energy costs

The operation of the device requires prolonged consumption of electricity, which will increase electricity bills and cause certain loads on the electrical wiring. Specifications for each unit may vary depending on the model of the device and its manufacturer.

Condensate collection container

The container for collecting moisture is designed for comfortable use of the device; the larger it is, the less often you will need to drain it. If there is a sewer drain nearby, then you can lower the drainage pipe directly into it, removing moisture from the tank directly.

In order to save money on purchasing ready-made equipment and, if you want to gain new experience in developing devices, you can make dehumidifiers yourself.

We recommend to buy

Creating a ventilation system in the cellar

The most popular scheme is considered to be natural ventilation of a cellar in a garage: to implement it, it is enough to install pipes that are used for air supply and exhaust. The design works due to the difference in atmospheric temperature conditions, however, when arranging it, you need to remember the difficulties:

  • In summer, the temperature difference practically disappears and the air flow stops.
  • In winter, the exhaust pipe can become clogged with ice and snow, so it needs to be warmed up.

A more effective option is a forced system: in it the movement of air is carried out using a fan and a pair of pipes. Before making ventilation in the cellar under the garage, you should calculate the power of the equipment that will need to be purchased: for this you need to determine the area of ​​the garage and the parameters of the basement.

Ventilation

In addition to insulation work, it is important to organize high-quality ventilation inside the garage basement. After all, a proper ventilation system is the key to long-term storage of food, the absence of mold, mildew, and an unpleasant musty smell. It can be of two types.

Type of ventilation systemWhat is needed for an organization?Installation features
NaturalMetal pipe sectionsThe exhaust pipe should be fixed at the ceiling and brought out at a distance of 50 cm just above the roof. The supply pipe will need to be fixed at a height of 10 cm from the floor, and then taken outside
ForcedElectric motor, supply and exhaust pipeThe principle of organization is similar to the natural type of ventilation, but an electric motor must be mounted in the exhaust pipe
CombinedElectric motor, supply and exhaust pipeIn the summer, you should use natural ventilation; in winter, use a forced ventilation system

Basement heating Library

There is a basement in almost every apartment and private building. It is used for different purposes: laying pipelines and heating equipment, storing agricultural products, and converting it into a living space. Shops and offices are often located on the ground floors: rent here is cheaper.

Basement of a private house

However, if we are talking about the basement of a country house, then fresh harvests and pickles, as well as unnecessary things, are usually stored in it. To prevent anything from spoiling or rotting, you need to take care of the heating system in the basement.

The choice of equipment largely depends on the location of the basement: for a summer house and a garage you need to select different options. It’s worth starting from how much thermal energy you need for heating. Along with the basement heating system, it is necessary to organize forced ventilation, since there are no windows in the underground for natural air exchange.

Storage of agricultural products

To organize the storage of potatoes, carrots, beets and other crops in the basements of a private house or garage, as a rule, additional heating of the basement is not required - usually the proximity to the living rooms above is sufficient. Low temperatures are not scary, but the main thing here is not to let it get below zero.

If the underground freezes, heating the basement of a private house is necessary, otherwise the products will freeze. It can be organized in several ways, the most justified is connecting heat guns (fan heaters) or infrared heaters.

Bath, sauna, swimming pool

To create an additional source of heat, you can lay a warm floor, preferably a strip floor, it is more unpretentious and lasts a long time.

An electric heated floor is expensive if you use it constantly, but for temporary heating this option will be the best, because it is easy to install.

Isolated room

If you organize additional living space in the basement of a private house, you can use a stove or boiler to heat it. It makes sense to install the boiler not in one basement, but in the whole house; simply lay an additional pipe in the underground with a coolant, for example, water, if water heating is used.

Calculation of basement heating: a 25 kW boiler is installed to heat 60-180 sq. m area, 25-35 kW – 200-300 sq. m. For rooms up to 200 sq. m. A long-burning stove is also suitable. Heated floors can be used as additional heating.

Conclusions and useful tips

From all of the above, as well as on the basis of practical observations, the following conclusions suggest themselves:

  1. Despite all the difficulties with burning solid fuels, firewood and other waste occupy a leading position among energy sources due to their reasonable price.
  2. For the same reason, most garages have air heating. It is simple to implement and allows you to quickly warm up the room.
  3. Air heating is made more effective by forced blowing of the heat source or pumping air through the heating chamber.
  4. Water heating is more appropriate in workshops and car services; for a private box the system is a bit expensive.
  5. Electric garage heating is an auxiliary or short-term option that is easy to implement, but difficult to pay for during operation.

Whatever method of garage heating you choose, the degree of insulation of the building will play a big role. An iron frame with slots in the gates does not retain heat at all and cannot be heated, so heating it is expensive and pointless. Another thing is that the walls are made of foam blocks or insulated on the outside with polystyrene foam; savings when heating such a garage are quite achievable.

Reasons for rising humidity

It is better to eliminate dampness in the basement immediately than to deal with its consequences later. The reasons may be the lack of proper air exchange, ventilation and window openings, moisture absorption by the walls of the room, poor or insufficient waterproofing protection, clogged drainage, abundant flood or groundwater.

Typically, spores of fungal infection and mold are present in all rooms, only they are inactive. But as soon as conditions for their reproduction appear (temperature above 20 degrees Celsius with a humidity of 80%), they begin to cover all accessible surfaces.

To successfully combat such infections, you need the right dehumidifier, which will change the air exchange parameters in the basement and prevent the development of pathogenic bacteria.

What you need to know to make a heated floor system in the basement, stages of work

Back

Any room has its own specifics, and the basement is no exception. Therefore, when you need to arrange heating in it, different ideas come to mind. One of these is heated floors in the basement. It’s worth figuring out how realistic it is to equip it.

Warmth in the basement - the house will be warm too

Basement Features

The floor in the basement of a house cannot be called warm, because it is closest to the soil, even if it is clay, which means it is a priori cool. There are no joists between which thick insulation could be laid

Therefore, it is important to ensure normal heating in the basement so that humidity and dampness do not penetrate the house

Here you can use different techniques. Many people prefer not to install heating in the basement at all, but to limit themselves to insulation and high-quality waterproofing. You should not think that by installing a heated floor in the basement, you can avoid humidity there: if there is no waterproofing, or it is made poorly, no heating will help in this case.

Important! To prevent excess cold and moisture from penetrating into the basement, you need to take care of this at the stage of building the house, otherwise it will be difficult to do anything later

On the ground

The basement may not have floor slabs or concrete screed; in this case, heating will be installed directly on the ground, and in some cases even on clay. This, of course, will require additional materials.

Warm floor in the basement? Why not

It is worth noting that installing a floor directly on the ground without a concrete screed is fraught with subsidence, although this does not always happen and not for everyone. But there is always such a risk, because the pie of such a heating system weighs a lot, which leads to shifts in even the most compacted foundation of earth and clay. Therefore, you need to think carefully before making such a floor.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=oOAgt8umeFI

Installation of a heated floor on the ground in the basement of a house:

  1. A layer of bulk 15 cm thick is laid on the natural soil and compacted well. Sand and clay are used for embankment.
  2. Next, crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
  3. Expanded polystyrene 7 cm thick is laid on top of the crushed stone.
  4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
  5. Next, pipes or underfloor heating mats are laid. The IR system is not used when arranging basement heating. A concrete screed is poured on top, which must be reinforced.
  6. Now it’s time for the flooring; the best option is tiles.

Installation of heated floors on the ground

If you decide to install a screed, it must be poured at the stage of laying crushed stone. It can be presented in the following forms:

  • Crushed stone is spilled with a liquid solution. Materials for it: sand - 2 parts, cement - 1 part. Mix with water until fluid.
  • Pouring the rough screed, the thickness of the concrete layer is up to 7 cm. It is advisable to reinforce the rough screed.

Base heating equipment process

To make a warm floor using slabs or joists on the ground floor of a house, you will need the same materials, only the layers of the cake will be slightly different.

The base can be concrete slabs, screed, or another base on logs. The convenience of installing a heated floor is that subsidence is impossible, and the materials used to install the system and the finish will not be damaged.

Any beginner in the construction business can do this type of arrangement, especially if you use mats with wire for the system. Necessary materials:

  1. Cement.
  2. Sand (not clay).
  3. Bends and fittings for taps, pipes for water heating.
  4. Electric floor mats, thermostats.
  5. Floor covering.
  6. If the base is a slab, then it may need to be sealed and leveled; this also requires materials.
  7. Materials for waterproofing and insulation.

Waterproofing is a must

The procedure for installing heating on slabs or concrete screed in the basement of a house:

  • Place a layer of waterproofing on the slab. Its canvases should overlap and overlap the walls by 10-15 cm.
  • Insulation, for example, polystyrene foam or mineral wool of maximum density. This insulation is also placed between the joists of interfloor ceilings, so it is worth purchasing it immediately to insulate the entire house.
  • Pipes or mats of the heating system.
  • Screed with reinforcement.
  • Flooring.

Fixing the heated floor system on the grid

Hatch equipment from the inside

The procedure for insulating a hatch is one of the most labor-intensive. We have to ensure that the lid is tightly connected to the shaft and carefully fill all the gaps. The main task is to prevent the entry of external air, which causes freezing, condensation and ice.

It is most convenient to work with hard materials, and the maximum effect is obtained from spraying liquid polyurethane foam. When installing the heat insulator, you should keep a can of polyurethane foam on hand to immediately seal any cracks found.

Many people prefer foamed polyethylene, which can be used to wrap the hatch shaft from the inside. This is convenient if the walls are made of wood - the material is secured with a stapler. Before work, you need to do thorough preparation - apply an antiseptic, abundant waterproofing.

DIY wooden door

Typically, wood is used to make the structure if the house has wooden flooring. When using this material, we make a so-called hidden hatch: visually the subfloor will be almost invisible.

IMPORTANT! Natural wood not only conceals the door in the floor, but also reduces its weight. Wood is often used for hatches under laminate flooring.

For the work to go quickly, you need to have all the necessary materials and tools at hand, namely:

  • flooring boards;
  • slats for sheathing;
  • support bars;
  • plywood sheet;
  • screws, nails;
  • drying oils;
  • thermal insulation film;
  • shock absorber, sash hinges;
  • handles for the cellar hatch;
  • chalk, pencil.


You can make the door yourself.
Consider making an entrance measuring 80 by 80 cm. With such measurements, the door should be smaller in size so that it fits well to the floor and leaves a gap of 5 mm. Next we follow the instructions:

  1. We make a “draft” of the flooring: you need to nail 4 beams for support.
  2. We cut out blanks measuring 79 cm from the floorboard.
  3. We take a plywood sheet and cut out a square 79 by 79 cm. A gap of 1 cm between the floor and the hatch is needed so that high humidity or sudden changes in temperature do not deform the door.
  4. To make the lathing for the inside, you need to cut the slats into 79 cm long sections.
  5. The last step is to coat each element with drying oil, which protects against moisture and fungus.

The design is made in several layers. The first layer is plywood with slatted sheathing. The second layer is thermal insulation to insulate the hatch. The third layer is the overlay of the board.

IMPORTANT! To make the basement door invisible, the top boards must be nailed parallel to the floor.

Metal door

Unlike wood, a metal hatch is more reliable and durable. This option is good to use when the basement is located in the garage. Again we stock up on everything we need:

  • sheet steel 1 and 3 mm thick;
  • corner 3-4 mm made of metal;
  • loops;
  • anchors;
  • gas closer;
  • foam or other insulating material;
  • primer;
  • rubber seals;
  • other tools: tape measure, knife, screwdriver, welding and angle grinder.

To make the design correctly, we again refer to the instructions:

  1. We take a metal sheet 80 by 80 cm.
  2. We turn the workpiece over and weld the metal corner.
  3. Next you need to insulate the door.
  4. We cover the insulating layer with a sheet of steel 1 mm thick. The edges must be secured with self-tapping screws.
  5. Now you need to mount and weld all the parts of the cellar hatch. We are installing a frame at the entrance. We weld the parts of the steel angle.
  6. We fix the frame to the concrete using anchors.
  7. To reduce heat loss and protect the structure from damage, it is recommended to seal the protruding edges of the metal lining with gaskets.
  8. The cellar door is attached to the frame using reinforced hinges. To make it convenient to open the door, you need to equip it with a gas closer.

A steel hatch can be made both in the garage and in the house, you just need to cover it with wood or the material from which the floor in the room is made.

Access to the cellar under the tiles

Materials such as tiles are most often used in the kitchen. Therefore, if your basement is located there, you can make this version of the hatch under the tiles. Manufacturing this design takes less time than the two previous options. We will need:

  • steel corner;
  • steel sheet 3 mm;
  • solution;
  • tile;
  • fittings

The work takes place in several stages:

  1. We cut out the bottom of the hatch from steel to the same dimensions as the entrance to the basement.
  2. We weld the corners, making sides. We attach reinforcement inside in the form of cells.
  3. We make the entrance frame of the basement from corners and fill it with concrete.
  4. We fasten the sash and support using reinforced hinges.
  5. Place the tiles on top of the previously mixed mortar.

Calculation of underground floor heating

Often homeowners do not think about heating basements and basements because they do not use their area as a living area. And in seasonal homes, heating issues are not particularly relevant. However, if you live in a private house in winter, the situation changes dramatically. To organize a heating system, you will need to make some preliminary calculations.

When choosing boiler heating, it is necessary to accurately calculate the area of ​​​​the room that needs to be heated (this can be either the whole house at once, or just the basement). If the area is large enough (from 500 sq. m.), then the boiler power should be more than 40 kW. When it is necessary to heat only the basement of a private house, then simple equipment with a power of about 25 kW will be sufficient.

When installing a stove, you must first decide on its type: a “potbelly stove”, a brick stove or, possibly, a long-burning stove

When choosing a potbelly stove, you need to take into account that this device can only heat a small cellar or basement of a country house, therefore, if you need to heat a large room, you should pay attention to other types of stoves

The long-burning stove is suitable for an area of ​​up to 200 square meters. m. The required power of such a stove is calculated in exactly the same way as in the case of boiler equipment. A good option would be to install a traditional brick stove, because in this case you don’t have to decide on power. The main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the chimney and arrange the firebox.

If a traditional brick stove was installed in the basement, it is important to remember that its damper should be closed when everything has already burned out and no flame appears on the coals. This will significantly save fuel by saving heat.

If this is not done, the heat emanating from the coals will simply go out into the chimney.

Final works

At the final stage, the walls are finished. In the cellar it does not have any decorative value. The main task is to provide the necessary microclimate for the preservation of food supplies.

Final lining of the cellar with clapboard

If the room is dry, you can line the walls with plywood or wood. In this case, it is imperative to treat the cladding material with an antifungal agent. For a basement with high humidity, lining is more suitable.

Wall insulation is not always required in a garage cellar. It happens that it is enough to insulate only the floor. In this case, conventional lime whitening or painting is used to finish wall surfaces.

Proper air exchange device

For the most competent ventilation device in the garage basement, the following points must be taken into account:

The most effective is the exhaust system, which ensures the circulation of air masses even in summer. When using a fan in a circuit, care should be taken to insulate it and protect the wiring from moisture that forms during the process. If the area of ​​the room is less than 40 square meters, and food is stored inside, it is necessary to install a hood. When choosing equipment, it is important to understand which fan to take: a device that is too powerful consumes more energy, and a model that is too weak does not allow all the moisture to be completely removed.

Why is it necessary?

It makes sense to insulate the garage basement only if the depth is insufficient and the outside temperatures are extremely low. If the basement is at least three meters deep, there is no need to protect the room from the inside from freezing.

Sometimes you just need to insulate the crossbar between the garage and the basement and adjust the ventilation. When setting up a warm cellar, experts advise thinking in advance about what products you plan to store there, and whether you should take care of additional moisture insulation.

What is insulated?

Depending on the average annual temperature and precipitation, on finances and the structure of the garage basement, the room needs to be insulated:

Important! Even if there is internal heating, and there is no need for thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling, it is recommended to insulate the floor of the garage basement. After all, the warm air from the artificial air conditioner will rise upward, leaving the floor cold

To insulate the lower surface of the subfloor, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam. This requires:

  • deepen the floor by 25-30 centimeters and level the surface;
  • lay 10 centimeters of crushed stone around the entire perimeter;
  • then cover the crushed stone with sand in half (this will help avoid moisture accumulation);
  • then apply a layer of insulation;
  • and finally make mesh reinforcement and concrete.

Walls

Regardless of the choice of insulation for basement walls, experts advise first treating them with antifungal solutions (quicklime or copper sulfate). Then carefully seal all seams and cracks.

Mineral or glass wool requires an additional frame so that it does not slide under its own weight. The insulation should be well secured around the entire perimeter of the wall.

Ceiling

It is recommended to insulate the garage ceiling with any suitable material

However, it is further important to hide the thermal insulation with sheets of plasterboard, plastic or plywood. Foam and reflective thermal insulation can be hidden under the cladding

Important! Before insulating the garage ceiling, you need to install all the electrical wiring for lighting, laying the wires in a heat-resistant corrugation

Choosing insulation

We decided to insulate the cellar, but we don’t know how to do it, and most importantly, what material to use.

Let's look at how to insulate a cellar in a garage using modern materials that experts use to insulate basements:

  • polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • “warm” plaster;
  • glass wool;
  • reflective thermal insulation.

Insulating a cellar in a garage with the materials described above allows you to achieve good thermal insulation properties and prevent the appearance of fungus in the room, but each material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Advantages:

  • simple installation;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • you can use extruded polystyrene foam for floor insulation;
  • service life up to 40 years or more;
  • excellent water resistance;
  • low cost;
  • perfectly tolerates sudden temperature changes.

Flaws:

  • is flammable;
  • does not allow air to pass through.

Helpful information! Extruded polystyrene foam differs from polystyrene foam in its increased density and strength. Thus, the thermal conductivity coefficient of extruded polystyrene foam will be higher than that of polystyrene foam with the same thickness of the material. In addition, only extruded polystyrene foam is used to insulate the floor covering.

Important! When using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, it will be necessary to treat all surfaces with a primer before starting work and, upon completion, additionally plaster the walls using reinforced plaster, and make a screed of cement and sand on the floor

Mineral wool

Advantages:

  • allows air to pass through, allowing the room to “breathe”;
  • excellent sound insulation;
  • excellent thermal insulation;
  • affordable price;
  • long service life of 30 years or more.

Flaws:

  • allows moisture to pass through;
  • work is performed in special clothing and gloves.

Important! If mineral wool is chosen as insulation, then it will be necessary to additionally make a vapor barrier in the basement to prevent moisture absorption by the wool itself and deterioration of its thermal insulation properties

"Warm" plaster

Advantages:

  • excellent thermal insulation;
  • affordable price;
  • excellent sound insulation.

Flaws:

  • it is necessary to apply a thick layer for good thermal insulation;
  • difficulty in installation.

Glass wool

Advantages:

  • low cost;
  • good thermal insulation properties;
  • good sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

  • work is performed in special clothing and gloves;
  • an additional frame for installation is required;
  • allows moisture to pass through;
  • If exposed to moisture, it may emit an unpleasant odor.

Important! If mineral wool is chosen as insulation, then it will be necessary to additionally make a vapor barrier in the basement to prevent moisture absorption by the wool itself and deterioration of its thermal insulation properties. In addition to the vapor barrier material, it is necessary to use film or foil to insulate glass wool

Reflective Thermal Insulation

Advantages:

  • high thermal insulation properties;
  • material thickness is only from 2 to 5 mm;
  • simple installation;
  • possibility to use facing material.

Flaws:

  • price;
  • possible heat loss

Important! Reflective thermal insulation is quite thin and, like a mirror, will reflect infrared heat when reflected. As a result, it is not efficient enough at convection or induction of reflected heat, which leads to heat loss

How to insulate a cellar, methods of insulation and heating

As a rule, a cellar is used at any time of the year to store food, so the main requirement for its design is to create conditions for maintaining a stable temperature all year round. It is necessary to ensure protection against freezing of the cellar in winter and excessive overheating in summer.

There are various ways to insulate a cellar, and their choice depends on the design of the building itself.

If the location of groundwater on the site does not allow the construction of an underground cellar, you will have to pay more attention to the aspects of cellar insulation, in particular vapor barrier, heat and waterproofing.

How to choose the right way to insulate a cellar with your own hands?

There are several of the most common and popular ways to insulate a cellar with your own hands.

  • Insulation with sawdust
  • Insulation using glass wool or mineral wool
  • Application of foam plastic
  • Use of modern insulation materials

Insulating the cellar with sawdust

Sawdust is an easily accessible and cost-effective insulation material that can be easily obtained at any woodworking plant.

The disadvantages of this method include some complexity of the process itself - before you start insulating the cellar with your own hands, you need to waterproof the walls and floor using tar, which must be applied in several layers.

Then the layer of sawdust is compacted so that the thickness of the layer is about 30 centimeters and covered with roofing felt. The resulting structure is covered with a concrete screed, which must also be waterproofed with another layer of roofing felt or bitumen.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool has excellent technical characteristics and provides a sustainable result, but it is quite expensive and requires careful attention to vapor and waterproofing.

Advantages of do-it-yourself cellar insulation with polystyrene foam

Insulating a cellar with your own hands using polystyrene foam has many advantages. This material is affordable, has excellent thermal insulation properties, is lightweight and resistant to mold.

The disadvantages include its easy flammability, which leads to an unstable fire situation, and the ability to emit an unpleasant odor when heated.

Therefore, it is still worth choosing a more environmentally friendly material for insulating residential premises.

How important is it to properly organize cellar heating?

A properly designed cellar should be heated using heat from the soil, which is accumulated by the surface layers of the soil during the warm season. How effective this process will be depends on many factors:

  • the presence or absence of a ventilation system;
  • groundwater level;
  • materials used to waterproof the cellar.

It is known that at a depth of 3–4 meters, fluctuations in the average annual temperature are insignificant and range from 5–10 degrees. Therefore, the depth at which the cellar is built is critical to ensure a stable temperature inside the cellar.

This is especially true for cellars that do not have any buildings above them. Heating a cellar located under a building where people constantly live is a simpler task, since alternative heating methods can be used and controlled.

Natural and electric method of heating the cellar

  • naturally;
  • using electricity.

The most preferable and safe heating method is natural, due to the accumulative effect of the soil.

Using electric heaters to maintain the desired temperature in the cellar without good insulation can require significant energy costs.

And in the case of cellars on personal plots and dachas, where in winter there is often no electricity, this heating method is completely impossible.

Electric cellar heating is optimal for use in urban environments, where there are usually no power outages. But it is worth remembering that without good insulation of the cellar, electricity costs will be significant.

Conducting communications

It is better to conduct pipelines, power cables, and other communications into the basement before insulation.

The cables must be pulled into a protective corrugated sleeve. Ventilation pipes are fixed to the walls or ceiling slab, ensuring the tightness of the passage areas.

After fixing the heat insulator, it is not recommended to lay communications.

Thermal insulation of the caisson

We are talking about separate storage facilities that are built on the territory of the plots for the subsequent storage of vegetables and preservation. To protect this building from frost, it is recommended to do the following:

  1. Carry out reliable work to insulate the room from the cold outside (this requires the use of dense soil).
  2. Create high-quality waterproofing, since moisture is often the main cause of freezing.
  3. Reliably protect internal structural elements from penetration of cold air through the walls.
  4. Also, if necessary, a special vestibule is created at the entrance, which contains a thermal insulating air cushion.

Previously, we looked at how to insulate a ceiling in a cellar, which is directly related to the heated building. It should also be clarified that when improving the caisson, it is necessary to do the same series of works, but choose denser materials for this.

Important. Gardeners and vegetable gardeners are often faced with the question of whether it is necessary to insulate cellar walls and other structural elements. Here an allowance should be made for the climatic conditions in the region, as well as the purpose of the storage facility. If it is necessary to maintain a comfortable temperature, thermal insulation is necessary. If low temperatures are required, then internal insulation is not always advisable.

Installation of heated floors in the basement

Having a heated floor in a living space will be an excellent solution for creating a comfortable environment. Often, heated floors are installed even when the house has stove heating, since cold air masses that arise during ventilation of the room pass through the floor.

It must be taken into account that when installing a warm one, special attention must be paid to thermal insulation and waterproofing of the foundation base. It is recommended to use a combined solution as insulation - mineral wool and expanded polystyrene

Installation of an additional waterproofing layer is necessary if the area has a high groundwater level or there is a possibility of seasonal flooding of the basement.

Installation options for heated floors. Click to enlarge.

Which heating method to choose

Heating a basement or cellar is a rather complicated issue. Here it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing the type of heating of the room as responsibly as possible, based on the wishes and requirements of the owner. For example, if you need to heat the basement in a seasonal home (that is, during the cold spring and autumn months), then installing a simple heater will be enough.

On the other hand, if you plan to turn the basement of a country house into a full-fledged living space, then it is necessary to arrange more efficient heating. The best option in this case seems to be installing a furnace or boiler. It is worth noting that for the installation of a gas boiler it is necessary to allocate a separate room, and its operation must be coordinated with the relevant services.

Basements in an apartment building have a variety of functions. It all depends on the quality of the structure and the location of the central communications, thanks to which water and heat are supplied to the apartments.

Most often, the basement is the property of the residents of this house, and can be equipped for organizing shops or cafes. Recently, it has become popular to organize gyms in basements, but for various types of events it is necessary to think carefully and qualitatively, since air masses naturally do not circulate very well.

It is characterized by high air humidity, which can negatively affect human health. For this reason, various fungal colonies and mold will begin to appear on the walls of the room, which are quite difficult to get rid of.

Advantages and disadvantages of a basement

The main advantage of a basement in an apartment building is the concentration of all necessary communications for functional work. From the basement it is carried out through ventilation ducts, which are located in each apartment.

There is also a central water supply pipe and heating pipes. As a rule, flow meters are installed on such pipes to monitor the total flow of the entire house and each resident individually. The basement also houses the central sewer system, to which all apartments in the building are connected.

The basement can be used as a storage room, but this is only if a certain space is provided there for such purposes. Previously, the basements were used as bomb shelters. Today there are still some basements that have benches or places to rest.

The downside of the basement is the dampness and mustiness of the air due to poor ventilation and lack of natural light.

Advice. To effectively use the basement, it is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation and waterproofing.

Installation of sheathing

If the insulation used is sheet or roll, it becomes necessary to manufacture sheathing for installation. It is made from metal profiles or wooden sheathing (antibacterial impregnation is required for use in the basement).

The spacing of the beams is most easily determined by the width of the material, especially since this will significantly save costs. Before installing the sheathing, it is also necessary to waterproof the cellar walls. Even an ordinary thick film is suitable for this, the joints of which are well taped. If the room is very humid, it is better to purchase special waterproofing materials. For high-quality protection, at least two layers are used, in the middle of which there is the insulation itself.

Main nuances of the work:

  • It is necessary to provide free space between the lining sheet and the insulation for the necessary ventilation of the room. This will ensure a long service life of the structure.
  • If you plan to install shelves or racks with wall mounting in the cellar, the frame must be strengthened at the installation sites. This is done using beams of larger cross-section. Be sure to measure the distance so as not to drill into the wall “blindly”.
  • For lathing, you can use special metal guide profiles. This will increase the cost of insulation, but this option is very resistant to corrosion (galvanized steel is used), and also gives proper strength to the structure with a relatively low weight.
  • Wooden sheathing is much cheaper, because you can use material that was not useful in construction, as well as all available wooden pieces. However, before installation they must be impregnated with special compounds. They “preserve” the wood from damage and also make it less flammable.

Installation of the sheathing can be done using different methods; the easiest way is to do it according to a pre-marked diagram. It must be completed in any case, because before purchasing materials this will have priority. It is necessary to calculate the material with a small margin, especially if you are performing such work for the first time.

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