Types and use of radiators with bottom connections

Thanks to the correctly selected connection scheme for heating radiators, water is supplied more efficiently with minimal losses in their power. For this reason, your own connection diagram must be selected for each specific situation. For example, the bottom connection of heating radiators provides for hidden pipe routing, and therefore such a system will harmoniously combine with the interior of the room.

Bottom connection of heating radiators

Bottom liner options

There are only two of these, let’s get acquainted with the features of each of them.
Table. Bottom pipe options.

Features of the diagonal connection scheme

If you also wondered why a diagonal connection is the most effective, then you should consider this option in more detail.

If we take into account the process where hot air or water is involved, then the action will occur according to one physical law, which involves the rise of warm masses upward, while the cold ones sink downwards

To ensure uniform heat distribution throughout the volume of the radiator, the coolant should be distributed throughout the battery. As mentioned above, lateral connection in city apartments acts as the main circuit. After all, forced circulation under high pressure is used there. The diameter of the incoming and outgoing pipes is only 20 mm. Through them, water enters the battery under high pressure, which allows the device to be filled evenly and quickly.

If we are talking about private housing construction, where the circulation is natural, the filling of radiators occurs under the influence of the above-mentioned physical law. That is why hot streams penetrate through the upper pipe, pushing cold water through the lower outlet on the opposite side. The two pipes are located diagonally when viewing the device. This is where the name of the connection comes from. The coolant fills the battery gradually, releasing heat to the entire volume. It is necessary to take into account not only the law of heat transfer, but also the physical law. That is why this scheme is the most effective.

Types of coolant circulation and connection options

The coolant, which in most cases is water, can circulate in the heating system in two ways - forced and natural. Forced circulation implies the presence of a special pump in the heating system, through which the coolant is moved. The pump can be an element of the heating boiler (that is, it is built inside) or it can be installed directly in front of the heating boiler - on the return pipe. When developing a connection diagram for heating batteries, the location for the pump must be correctly determined in advance.

In many ways, the types of connections for heating radiators depend not only on the type of coolant circulation. In addition, it is also necessary to take into account the duration of the system pipes and the peculiarities of their location.

One way connection

This type of radiator connection assumes that both the hot coolant supply pipe and the return pipe will be connected to one side of the battery. Using this connection principle is the most rational for one-story houses. It is especially suitable if you plan to connect fairly long radiators - up to 14-15 sections. However, if the number of sections is more than 15, the heating efficiency may decrease - that is, the last sections of the radiator will be colder than those closer to the pipes. Therefore, in this case, you should choose other options for connecting heating radiators.

One way connection

Saddle and bottom connection

This connection is suitable for those systems whose pipes are installed under the floor surface. In this case, there will be only a small section of pipe above the surface, which is connected to the lower pipe. In this case, the inlet pipe is mounted on one side of the radiator, and the outlet pipe on the other. The disadvantage of this connection method is significant (up to 15%) heat loss. In the upper part, the radiator may not warm up completely.

Bottom connection

Diagonal (cross) connection

Diagonal connection of heating radiators is best used for radiators with a large number of sections. The design of the radiator allows the coolant to be distributed within the sections as evenly as possible - this makes it possible to obtain maximum heat transfer. The essence of the connection is simple - the heated coolant supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe. And a return pipe is connected to the lower pipe on the other side of the radiator. The advantage of this type of connection is minimal heat loss - it is only 2%.

Diagonal (cross) connection

The quality of heating the room will depend on how correctly you determine how to connect radiators to your heating system. The proposed options for connecting heating batteries are extremely simple and of the highest quality.

What else do you need to know

Side connecting holes (also called inlets, pipes and manifolds) can have different diameters. The most common:

• G1” – one inch (2.54 cm);
• G3/4” - three quarters of an inch (1.91 cm);
• G1/2” – half an inch (1.27 cm).

This is important to know when choosing shut-off and control valves: you need to know whether it will be possible to connect the device to the radiator directly or whether adapters will be required. When connecting sectional radiators of any type, you cannot do without adapters (footers): here in some collectors the thread is left-handed, and in others - right-handed

Therefore, special installation kits are produced for sectional radiators with side connections. They are available for different diameters of collectors and supply pipes. Their configuration varies, but most often there are seven elements: four adapter fittings, a Mayevsky valve (air vent) with a key and a plug (for an unused manifold)

When connecting sectional radiators of any type, you cannot do without adapters (footers): here in some collectors the thread is left-handed, and in others - right-handed. Therefore, special installation kits are produced for sectional radiators with side connections. They are available for different diameters of collectors and supply pipes. Their configuration varies, but most often there are seven elements: four adapter fittings, a Mayevsky valve (air vent) with a key and a plug (for an unused manifold).

https://youtube.com/watch?v=nnQz2VA7C_M

With a bottom connection, all you need is a radiator connection unit, which is also called “multiflex”. Two shut-off ball valves are built inside it, which serve to cut off the coolant. If necessary, simply turn the miniature taps and the radiator is turned off: it can be removed.

He can be:

• straight - pipes are supplied from below;
• corner - pipes come out of the wall.

When choosing it, it is important to know the distance between the centers of the pipes (center distance). This value is indicated in the technical data and is usually 80 or 50 mm. There is a set of adapters for any type of pipes for the bottom connection of radiators

For more information about these fittings, watch the video.

There is a set of adapters for any type of pipes for the bottom connection of radiators. For more information about these fittings, watch the video.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=otVXrHAX2EE

Using radiators with bottom connections

This method is not only the most effective, but also the most aesthetically acceptable. The advantages of this connection include:

possibility of installing a flow direction adapter;

Flow direction adapter

• no need to purchase a suitable thermostat - it is already on the radiator;
• the fact that both pipes from the battery go into the wall or floor.

Piping in the wall

However, there are also disadvantages, including:

• the need to install an air vent on each radiator;
• the need for constant use of a circulation pump;
• less uniform heating, lower efficiency;
• impossibility of use for gravity heating systems.

You need to bleed the air from the battery

Piping to the room heater

Currently, the best piping options are polypropylene and cross-linked polyethylene pipes. They are reliable and have an attractive appearance. Experts do not recommend using steel pipelines for wiring the heating system.

Pipes connected to the battery from below are often laid under the floor covering or even along the ceiling of the floor below. For this installation method, steel pipelines are not the best option. The optimal solution, proven in practice, is tying heating radiators with polypropylene. A good solution is also to use copper and PEX piping for heating distribution.

Polypropylene pipe for heating system Source vyborexperta.ru

The use of insulation on pipes also has its own characteristics:

• the absence of thermal insulation protection will provide additional heating of the room;
• the presence of thermal insulation will reduce heat loss - this is an important nuance if the pipelines are laid in the suspended ceiling of the floor below;
• the thermal insulation layer replaces the damping material when heating is installed in the screed - the insulation compensates for the thermal expansion of the polymer, which allows the plastic to expand in any direction without negative consequences.

Thermally insulated heating pipes laid in a screed Source odstroy.ru
Before installing pipelines, be sure to determine the exact location of the heating devices. Their horizontal displacement is unacceptable, unlike height. The reason for this is the lack of a swivel fitting above the floor covering.

Usually only small straight sections of piping are above the surface. They are connected to the heater taps. The exception is batteries that are tied from below using knots that provide lower side connection to the pipes. This option assumes that the pipeline outlets are located at a distance of approximately 120 mm from the fittings.

Bimetallic radiators

The composition of bimetallic radiators contains 2 different metals - steel and aluminum. Aluminum serves to transfer heat into the room; this material is known for its good thermal conductivity. Steel performs the function of contact with the coolant. Convective fins are also made of aluminum; they are necessary to increase the heat transfer of the heating device.

Sectional bimetallic radiators are:

• collapsible;
• monolithic.

Rifar is a radiator with a non-separable design. The pipes are made of steel with aluminum fins, they are one piece with the steel manifold. This radiator can withstand pressure up to 150 atmospheres; this safety measure is recognized as the best, because even with a water hammer, the pressure is several times less.

Rifar is a durable and highly reliable heating radiator; it will last for many years thanks to its modern qualities

It is important that the water in the system is prepared; oxygen is not allowed in it. Tests have shown that if the rules are not followed, the heating device will last no more than 3 years. The wall thickness of the Rifar radiator is 2.5 mm, this guarantees long-term operation in any conditions

Hydraulic resistance is minimal as the correct diameter of the collectors has been achieved

The wall thickness of the Rifar radiator is 2.5 mm, this guarantees long-term operation in any conditions. The hydraulic resistance is minimal since the correct diameter of the collectors has been achieved.

Reinforcement elements and consumables

Installation of batteries, to which the pipelines are connected from below, is not difficult. However, the process is carried out using special fittings. Its type is selected for the installed radiators.

Bottom connection of the heating battery with polypropylene or other pipelines involves the use of a set of adapters. They are selected according to the material of the connected pipes. Typically solder sleeves and press fittings are used. If polypropylene pipes are connected, it is recommended to use “American” threads.

Completed lower piping of the heating device using a set of fittings and adapters Source remontnik.ru

On a note! Adjustment fittings are rarely installed under heating equipment. It is usually located on the manifold.

If a lateral pipe supply is made from below, a control and thermostatic valve is installed on the heater. Installation of fittings is carried out using threads.

On a note! When installing any room heating device, 2 shut-off valves are installed. They allow you to turn off and remove heating equipment without stopping the operation of the heating circuit of the house.

When installing the battery, radiator plugs and air vents are also used, which are often Mayevsky taps. To seal threaded connections, tow is usually used together with a special paste.

Manual air vent - Mayevsky tap Source eurobion.info

Types of lower pipe connections

1. One-sided. With a one-way connection, two pipes of the heating device exit from one side. In this case, hot water passes through the upper radiator plug, and cold water is discharged through the lower one, which is located next to the upper plug.
2. Versatile. In the case of a versatile connection, a pipe with hot water enters on one side, and cold water is discharged from the opposite side. This type of liner is ideal for individual heating systems. The big advantage here is that water flows to the heating devices in any direction: bottom-up, top-down, bottom-down. A versatile liner has a shorter length of supply and return lines. The choice depends on the level of heat transfer that is most appropriate to obtain for the room.

Types of piping, or how to properly connect a heating battery

Providing heat to a house or apartment is task number one during the cold season. Therefore, every average person strives first to create an efficiently operating system that would be economically justified. And since most heating systems are of the radiator type, the question of how to properly connect heating batteries is one of the most pressing.

For many, this means nothing, especially for those who are faced with the problem of piping the heating system for the first time. But anyone who has already dealt with the creation of such schemes understands perfectly what we are talking about.

There are not so many classifications of types of piping and routing of a pipe system, especially when it comes to radiator piping. Therefore, it will not be very difficult to understand this issue. Most often, it is the pipe layout that influences the nature of the connection of battery radiators. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the classification of various heating systems and determine which of them is best suited for a particular connection.

Useful tips

For long-term operation, it is not enough to connect the device correctly. By providing proper care, you can significantly extend the life of the radiator.

At the end of the heating season, water from the central heating is drained for the entire summer period. This is necessary for pipe maintenance and repair. However, this process cannot be called useful for radiators - most devices undergo internal corrosion during this period.

Creating favorable conditions for the summer period is quite simple.

To do this, it is necessary to carry out the following activities:

• after the radiators have completely cooled down, all valves on the direct and return water supply should be closed;
• After this, all air vents must be opened.

Thus, the remaining water in the radiator will be released into the air vent due to thermal expansion, which occurs due to the chemical reaction of the metal with water.

At the beginning of the heating season, it is necessary to close the air vent before filling the batteries with hot water. Don't forget to flush your radiators at least once every two years.

This happens as follows:

• the lower and upper valves are closed;
• open air vents;
• drain the water through a plug or drain valve;
• unscrew the detachable fasteners;
• remove the radiator from the bracket;
• After all the above manipulations, you can rinse the device with water through a hose that can be easily attached to the water tap.

When washing, the use of abrasive products is strictly prohibited.

Don't forget about external cleaning. Dust clogging into the battery fins reduces the heat transfer of the device, so regular washing of the case will not harm the device.

Cast iron radiators require painting. For this purpose, special paint is used for batteries and heating structures, which can withstand high temperatures. Such paints do not turn yellow, do not crack, and do not wash off.

Types of fittings for the assembly

Types of fittings that are used to connect pipes and radiators in a heating system.
You can connect communications using the bottom method using three types of fittings:

• Direct. They are used to connect radiator modules to pipes emerging from the floor in a vertical position. The direct fitting scheme involves the presence of fittings with an “American” (flare nut) or compression adapter coupling.
• Angular. The pipes come out of the wall at a minimum height from the floor surface. The corner fitting is connected by an American connector located at the ends of the pipes.
• Taps for closing the system and adjusting the temperature. The fitting is built into the battery housing and provides quick connection to the two-pipe wiring. Using ball or valve valves with recessed tips, you can adjust the return, flow, and turn off radiators.

Parts of the steel pipeline are fixed with a metal-plastic union nut with a Eurocone type connector.

Radiators with bottom connection: select the type

No one can call old-style radiators beautiful, most likely the opposite. Designers are trying to remove such radiators from view or soften the gloomy impression of them. In this case, radiators with bottom connections are a solution to the problem with the interior. Since such a connection can be hidden under the floor. With this option, your home will be provided with a comfortable condition and aesthetic design.

There are 3 types sold in the markets, namely:

• The first type is profiled steel panels;
• The second is smooth panels;
• And hygiene panels.

Hygienic and smooth panels are made for heating, schools, hospitals, and kindergartens. The leaders in sales of such panels are the companies Kenny and Purmo. Profile radiators made of steel. They are powder coated on the outside. Powder coating makes it possible to serve such radiators for a long time. The color of such radiators may vary. Tubular steel radiators are superior to panel radiators in many respects. The first advantage of such radiators is the ability to turn them in any direction, but when purchasing panel radiators, you will need to know the side from which the connection will be made. The coolant in the tubular radiator is supplied directly to the last section. This supply plays a big role when replacing an old radiator with a new one. The standard arrangement of pipes for radiators in an apartment may not always fit such radiators, but with tubular radiators such confusion will not arise. But the problem with old pipes can also be solved by re-lining them, but this will be expensive.

Classification of panel devices

Panel radiators come in three types:

1. profile;
2. smooth;
3. hygienic.

In the manufacture of profile devices, sheet steel is used, all external surfaces are coated with a protective powder coating. Moreover, the neutral anti-corrosion varnish, which is also used in manufacturing, significantly extends the service life. The color can be any - there are no restrictions here.

The second and third types of radiators are used in educational institutions, hospitals and kindergartens. Vivid examples are the products of brands such as, say, Purmo or Kermi.

Important! The advantage of tubular batteries over panel batteries is that the former can be turned in any direction, while the latter should be purchased with a predetermined connection. And in old buildings, pipes do not always fit new batteries. Although this problem can be solved - this requires relocating the pipeline.

Manufacturers

Among the many brands, the following brands have proven themselves well:

Lideya (Russia). This manufacturer has received many positive reviews, as all of its products are of high quality finish. The radiator panels are coated with a unique two-layer varnish, and the devices can operate in one-pipe or two-pipe heating systems.

• Biasi S.p. A. (Italy). The radiators of this company are created using the latest technologies, so their heat transfer is high and the rooms are heated instantly. The devices can also operate at low temperatures; their operating pressure limit is 9 bar.
• Korado (Czech Republic). Batteries have either one, two or three panels. The main features of the products are their wide range of colors, small volume of coolant, and convenient brackets. The pressure limit reaches 8.7 bar, and the water heats up to +110 C.

Coolant flow diagram

To begin with, we note that the bottom connection in centralized heating systems of city apartments is practically not used due to a number of reasons, among which a significant role is played by the impossibility of promptly carrying out repair work with hidden wiring inside the floors. Therefore, we will be interested in the features of the distribution of coolant in batteries that are installed in private homes. Most often these are steel or aluminum radiators.

Coolant movement when the battery is connected to the bottom

Convection and radiation

As you know, heat from a battery can be transferred mainly in two ways (we will not take into account simple thermal conductivity here):

1. Convection. This is the directional movement of heated air from bottom to top, determined by the laws of physics. The fact is that cold air is denser and heavier than warm air, so it is always at the bottom. When it comes into contact with a heat source, it heats up, becomes lighter and rushes higher, and the vacated space is occupied by new layers of cold air masses;
2. Radiation. Heat is transferred from the heated surface to the surrounding space using electromagnetic waves. For example, a stone stove or an oil radiator heats.

Almost all modern radiators, both steel and bimetallic and aluminum, distribute heat in both ways, and the relative proportions of convection and radiation are different for each battery.

Heat Spread

In radiators with a bottom connection, the heated coolant enters and is discharged through the lower inlets. Therefore, the bottom surface of the housing is well heated due to the passage of hot liquid. What happens at the top of the battery?

Another possible bottom connection option

You can often come across the statement that uneven heating of the surface (warm below, cold above) is an inevitable price to pay when using this connection scheme for the opportunity to hide communications and save on the length of pipes.

In fact, modern radiators have a high degree of convective heating:

• Aluminum - 50-60% (depending on the degree of ribbing of the inner surface);
• Steel – 60%;

By comparison, cast iron radiators provide only 20% of their heat transfer through convection.

Thus, high-quality modern batteries with a bottom connection can provide the most uniform heating of the surface due to convective heat exchange. Let us remember that convection is the directed movement of warm air from bottom to top. If the radiator has good convective properties, then due to intensive heating of the lower part at a good coolant flow rate, the rising air will actively heat the upper half, ensuring effective heat transfer to the entire surface.

Let's summarize. Radiators with bottom connections will be the optimal solution for heating your own home under the following conditions:

1. Good convective properties (aluminum batteries must have additional ribs inside the sections, and steel batteries must have the maximum number of U-shaped plates between the panels);
2. The maximum possible coolant flow rate;
3. Possibility of access to pipes if necessary for repairs or system maintenance.

You can see the features of various types of connecting radiators to the heating system in the video below:

Specifics of a one-pipe system

In single pipe systems, the heating elements are connected and interconnected by pipes. All the heat from the heating element moves with water through one pipe, gradually heating all radiators.

The speed and quality of heating of the entire furnace system will depend on the size of the pipe. Proper connection of heating radiators will provide you with heat throughout the year.

A single-pipe scheme will save your finances if you are building a multi-story building. Thanks to the falling vertical riser which will help save materials.

This piping system is recommended where the length of the piping systems does not exceed 25 meters.

What kind of harness can be

The main stage of installing a heating system in a house is tying the heating radiator with polypropylene. During this process, you need to install parts that allow you to regulate heat transfer.

Shut-off valves

There are several types of shut-off valves that are suitable for piping heating radiators:

1. Chokes with thermal control capability. To adjust heat transfer, you need to set the parameters. After this, the mechanism will work automatically. Regardless of what temperature changes occur outside, the same temperature regime will be maintained in the room. Throttle is a valve designed for manual adjustment of heat transfer. The temperature begins to change two hours after changing the valve position.
2. Valves are a part that is installed in front of the battery. Designed to shut off the coolant supply.

Fitting

To connect the battery to the pipeline, you need to use the following fittings:

1. American couplings with which shut-off valves are connected. If there is a union nut, you can quickly dismantle the heat exchanger.
2. Triple couplings - suitable for connecting pipes for supplying coolant simultaneously with control valves.
3. Tees that have vias.

The choice of connecting part depends on the complexity of the water supply system.

Tools

To assemble a polypropylene heating system you will need a set of tools:

• special soldering iron for welding plastic;
• a tool for removing the reinforcing layer from tubes - a shaver;
• key with hooks for installing shut-off valves;
• scissors for cutting polypropylene.

Additionally, you will need measuring and marking tools.

Stages of connecting heating radiators

Installation of radiators with polypropylene pipes is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking the laying of tubes and battery installation locations.
2. Fastening heat exchangers to the wall. For small models, two brackets are enough, for large ones - one per section.
3. Installation of shut-off valves.
4. Pipe connection.
5. Installation of jumpers, compensators.

The last stage is connecting the pipeline to the battery. To make the joints more airtight, you can use sealants that are resistant to prolonged exposure to high temperatures.

To heat rooms in an apartment or private house, it is necessary to install radiators in each room. For them to work, you need to correctly connect the heat exchangers to the heating pipeline.

Functions

Winding and unaesthetic pipes of the heating system are not the best decoration in interiors. Design experts come up with ingenious ways to hide standard cast iron radiators. It should be noted that this does not always work out. This problem is solved more effectively if you use heating devices with a lower coolant connection. Then all the pipes will not be located in plain sight, but under the finishing floor covering.

In aluminum as well as cast iron batteries, there is no possibility of creating a bottom connection. But steel panel or tubular radiators are quite suitable for organizing the connection in this way. Next we will look at installation methods.

Classification of heating systems

The main criterion for dividing heating systems is the number of circuits. Based on this criterion, all heating systems are divided into two groups:

The first option is the simplest and cheapest. This is essentially a ring from boiler to boiler, with heating radiators installed in between. If it comes to a one-story building, then this is a justified option in which you can use the natural circulation of the coolant. But in order for the temperature to be uniform in all rooms of the house, it is necessary to take some measures. For example, build up sections on the outermost radiators in the chain.

The best option for such a pipe circuit is to connect the battery using the Leningrad method. In fact, it turns out that an ordinary pipe runs through all the rooms near the floor, and radiator radiators crash into it. In this case, the so-called bottom cut is used. That is, the radiator is connected to the pipe through two lower pipes - the coolant enters one and exits from the other.

Attention! Heat loss with this type of battery connection is 12–13%. This is the highest level of heat loss

So before making such a decision, weigh the pros and cons. Initial savings can turn into large expenses during operation.

In general, this is a good connection scheme that justifies itself in small buildings. And in order to evenly distribute the coolant over all radiators, you can install a circulation pump in it. The investment is inexpensive, and the device works perfectly and requires little power consumption. But it ensures uniform heat distribution throughout all rooms.

By the way, a single-pipe piping scheme is very often used in city apartments. True, the bottom battery connection cannot be used here. The same should be said about the two-pipe system.

Options for connecting heating radiators in a private house

We talked about methods of laying pipes throughout the premises and found out that two-pipe systems are most effective, as they provide more uniform heating of the entire building. If the building is small, you can limit yourself to a single-pipe system - it will be cheaper. Now we will talk about how to connect heating radiators in a private house. The following schemes exist:

• Side diagram;
• Bottom diagram;
• Lower for two-pipe systems;
• Diagonal.

Let's look at ways to connect heating radiators in a private house in more detail.

Side diagram

The side connection scheme is often used in apartment buildings, when the coolant descends from top to bottom, passing through radiators in apartments. In order to partially compensate for the cooling of the coolant, a connection is made with a jumper. Radiators are also connected laterally in private houses, using a two-pipe scheme - the coolant is supplied from above, after which it passes through the radiator and goes down into the return pipe.

Sometimes the side scheme is called one-sided - in fact, they are the same scheme. It is recommended for use when installing large radiators for heating large areas.

Bottom diagram

When considering the diagrams for connecting heating batteries in a private house, one cannot fail to mention the lower diagram. In it, the coolant is supplied in the lower part from one side and exits from the other side. The circuit is quite effective, but it is aimed at single-pipe systems with radiators connected in series. In two-pipe systems such a connection is practically not used. This radiator connection scheme is often called a saddle connection.

Lower for two-pipe systems

Some radiators are designed so that their inputs and outputs are located nearby (usually in the lower part). Such batteries are intended for use in two-pipe heating systems. The circuit is not without certain disadvantages associated with uneven heating. That is, the furthest part of the battery will be cooler than the rest of the surface. Therefore, the use of such radiators is not justified.

Diagonal pattern

The diagonal connection diagram is one of the most common. Its main advantage is the uniform distribution of the heated coolant throughout the battery. The coolant itself is supplied from the upper right part and removed through the lower left part (or vice versa). Due to the fact that it flows diagonally (and always from top to bottom), uniform heating of the entire battery is ensured.

This scheme is intended for use in two-pipe systems. In single-pipe systems, the presence of excess bends will cause an increase in hydraulic resistance.

Single-pipe scheme (apartment version)

This connection scheme is very common in apartment buildings (from 9 floors and above).

One pipe (riser) descends from the technical floor, passes through all floors and enters the basement, where it enters the return pipe. In such a connection system, there will be heat in the upper apartments, since, having passed through all the floors and given off the heat to the bottom, the water in the pipe will cool down.

And if there is no technical floor (5-story buildings and below), then such a system is “ringed”. One pipe (riser) rises from the basement, passes through all floors, goes through the apartment on the top floor to the next room and descends, also through all floors, to the basement. In this case, it is not known who is lucky. On the ground floor, in one room, it may be warm where the pipe rises, but in the next room it is cold, where the same pipe descends, giving off heat to all apartments.

Installation of radiators with bottom connection

In order to mount radiators with bottom connections, you will need the following components:

• heating pipes laid in the walls;
• radiators of the selected model;
• connection points for radiators with bottom connections (if necessary).

Batteries connected to pipes hidden in the floor look best.

The nodes are selected based on the location of the pipes. If they pass through floors, ordinary nodes are selected (they are somewhat similar to small binoculars). If pipes pass through walls, L-shaped units are used. Are you planning to install a one-pipe system? Don't forget to make sure that the connection nodes you choose have bypasses with built-in control valves.

Next, the radiators are installed. They are fixed on plastered walls, including finished ones. It is necessary to mark the installation locations of the fasteners, taking into account the location of the inlet and outlet pipes, the dimensions of the batteries themselves and the dimensions of the connection nodes. The correct installation is controlled using a building level - the radiators must hang strictly horizontally. It is also necessary to make sure that the distances to the window sills, walls and floors are maintained (all this is calculated at the stage of designing the house).

The importance of a competent approach to choosing a connection diagram

First of all, always pay attention to the radiator installation diagram. As a rule, it affects the functionality of the heating device and its efficiency. In addition, if the installation is performed incorrectly, thermoregulation will be disrupted and the pressure in the battery will increase, which will inevitably lead to operational problems. If you do the installation yourself, without the appropriate skills, you will encounter many problems and, most likely, ruin the interior of the room.

Radiator bottom connection unit

By giving preference to the lower connection, prepare for a slight decrease in the efficiency of the entire heating system. Although this is a small thing when compared with convenience and hiding the pipes. If you connect radiators correctly, they will save heating costs in the future and will serve you for many years!

Types of lower pipe connections

1. One-sided. With a one-way connection, two pipes of the heating device exit from one side. In this case, hot water passes through the upper radiator plug, and cold water is discharged through the lower one, which is located next to the upper plug.
2. Versatile. In the case of a versatile connection, a pipe with hot water enters on one side, and cold water is discharged from the opposite side. This type of liner is ideal for individual heating systems. The big advantage here is that water flows to the heating devices in any direction: bottom-up, top-down, bottom-down. A versatile liner has a shorter length of supply and return lines. The choice depends on the level of heat transfer that is most appropriate to obtain for the room.

What you need for efficient battery operation

An efficient heating system can save money on fuel costs. Therefore, when designing it, you should make informed decisions. After all, sometimes the advice of a neighbor in the country or a friend who recommends a system like his is not at all suitable.

It happens that there is no time to deal with these issues yourself. In this case, it is better to turn to professionals who have been working in this field for at least 5 years and have grateful reviews.

Correct connection is guaranteed to ensure comfortable living in the house for all family members. After all, when choosing a scheme, you need to take into account a number of features of your home

Having decided to independently connect heating radiators, you need to take into account that their efficiency is directly affected by the following indicators:

• size and thermal power of heating devices;
• their location in the room;
• connection method.

The choice of heating devices amazes the imagination of the inexperienced consumer. Among the offers are wall-mounted radiators made of various materials, floor and baseboard convectors. They all have different shapes, sizes, heat transfer levels, and connection types. These characteristics must be taken into account when installing heating devices into the system.

Among the models of heating devices on the market, it is better to choose based on the material and thermal power specified by the manufacturer

For each room, the number of radiators and their size will be different. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, the level of insulation of the external walls of the building, the connection diagram, the thermal power indicated by the manufacturer in the product passport.

The location of the batteries is under the window, between windows located at a fairly long distance from each other, along a blank wall or in the corner of the room, in the hallway, pantry, bathroom, in the entrances of apartment buildings.

Depending on the location and method of installation of the heating device, there will be different heat losses. The worst option is a radiator completely covered with a screen

It is recommended to install a heat-reflecting screen between the wall and the heating device. You can make it yourself using one of the heat-reflecting materials - penofol, isospan or another foil analogue. Also, you should adhere to the following basic rules for installing a battery under a window:

• all radiators in one room are located on the same level;
• convector fins in a vertical position;
• the center of the heating equipment coincides with the center of the window or is 2 cm to the right (to the left);
• the length of the battery is at least 75% of the length of the window itself;
• the distance to the window sill is at least 5 cm, to the floor - no less than 6 cm. The optimal distance is 10-12 cm.

The level of heat transfer from devices and heat loss depends on the correct connection of radiators to the heating system in the house.

By following the basic standards for the placement of radiators, you can maximally prevent the penetration of cold into the room through the window

It happens that the owner of a home is guided by the advice of a friend, but the result is not at all as expected. Everything is done like his, but the batteries don’t want to heat up. This means that the selected connection diagram was not suitable specifically for this house, the area of ​​​​the premises, the thermal power of the heating devices were not taken into account, or annoying mistakes were made during installation.

Connection methods

Radiators can be connected to pipes in different ways, depending on the installation location and the route of pipes in the room and, of course, the heating scheme:

When the connection method is selected (see diagram), you must:

1. Wipe all joints and pipes with sandpaper and degrease them.
2. Secure the radiator. This can be a temporary fixation or an installation one, depending on the complexity of the arrangement of the heating system pipes according to your scheme.
3. We screw in the adapters, which, by turning, can be adjusted to the direction of the pipes to which the elements are connected. If, for example, they are located on the floor, then the adapter is screwed down with a thread; if the pipes go deep into the room, then the direction of the adapter changes. So the main thing is to look carefully at the layout of a single-pipe heating system.
4. Adapters for pipes, preferably made of domestically produced polypropylene, as experts advise, are attached to the main pipe using a soldering iron.
5. We install the tap on top and the plug on the bottom, as shown in the diagram, or vice versa.

Battery Location Requirements

Regardless of which connection method is chosen, the radiator should be located:

• 5 cm from the wall;
• 10 cm from the window sill (a distance of at least 5 cm can be allowed);
• 10 cm from the floor surface (a slight deviation is possible - maximum 2 cm).

How to install heating radiators correctly

On a note! When purchasing fasteners, consider the thickness of the foil thermal insulation (if provided). In this case, the length of the locking hooks should be slightly longer.

Radiator location standards are observed

Installation rules

Before connecting the radiator to the system, it is assembled in a lying state with the installation of all fittings. Ultimately, only two straight press fittings or union nut connections should remain: on the supply and return lines.

The lower connection valve replaces the radiator liner. Its sealing occurs in the standard way for this unit - using an o-ring seal. It is advisable to mark the position of the through hole on the shank on the valve nut so that after tightening it is positioned strictly vertically. To adjust the position, you can use seals of different thicknesses and adjust the degree of tightening.

The injection unit is connected in a similar way, but quite often it does not have a nut that replaces the fitting. With a one-way bottom connection, the outlet on the reverse side is plugged with a plug, like one of the top ones, and a Mayevsky tap is installed in the remaining one. The further assembly scheme is simple: all the necessary shut-off and control equipment is packed onto the threaded fittings of the valve, injection unit or lower outlets onto tow with sealing paste. Ultimately, the radiator is installed in place as an assembly and fixed using a wall or floor mounting method, then it is connected to the system.

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Master Class. We connect the radiator from the floor using L-shaped tubes

L-shaped tube
Step 1. Installation begins with the installation of the nipple.

Nipple installation

Step 2. Then the block of ball valves is installed.

Installation of ball valve block

Step 3. Place the threaded clamp onto the L-shaped tube.

Threaded clamp connection is put on

Step 4: Now the L-shaped tube is flared using a tool.

The L-shaped tube is flared using a tool

As a result, the rubber seal no longer slips off the tube into the Eurocone.

Now the seal does not slip off the tube

Step 5. The tubes are installed in the fixing angle.

Installation of tubes in the fixing angle

Step 6. Next, the tubes are inserted into the block of ball valves and baited.

Baiting tubes

Step 7. A hole is marked for attaching the fixing angle, after which the tubes are dismantled.

The future hole is marked

Removing tubes

Step 8. A hole is drilled in the floor according to the markings.

A hole is drilled in the floor

The kit with a fixing angle includes a dowel and a self-tapping screw. The dowel is driven into the hole made.

Dowel and screw The dowel is driven into the hole

Step 9. The L-shaped connecting tubes are installed back and fixed to the ceiling.

Fixing L-shaped tubes

Step 10. Take the pipe and connect it to the L-shaped connecting tubes. The thermal insulation on the pipe is moved back at least 2 lengths of the sliding sleeve. Then the sleeve is fixed.

Pipe for heating system Thermal insulation is pushed back by 2 sleeve lengths

Fixing the sleeve

Step 11: The connection is made. The end of the pipe is flared.

Note! In this example, a metal-polymer pipe is used, which is why the nozzle on the tool is green.

A green nozzle is used. Pipe flaring

The pipes are connected
Step 12. The pipes are attached to the ceiling using dowel hooks in increments of 50 cm. Thanks to this, the pipes will not float up when pouring the screed.

The pipes are attached to the floor with dowel hooks

Features of the bottom connection

Bottom connection open type
Three connection methods:

1. Connecting ordinary radiators through the lower holes.
2. Using a set of components from below, steel or bimetallic radiators.
3. Purchase batteries that are designed for this connection.

Now let's look at the methods, pros and cons of various methods of lower connection.

Connection with side outlets

Double-sided bottom connection

The connection itself is not very difficult. The pipes are located below - above the floor or hidden in the floor. A radiator is mounted on the wall, and a pipeline is connected to the lower holes. So that the battery can be removed without stopping the heating process, shut-off valves must be installed on both sides. An air vent is installed in the top hole (no matter which side).

Connection using an adapter

Connection diagram

Sometimes it is not possible to connect an ordinary radiator by connecting a pipeline to it from both sides. In this case, you can use an adapter. It is screwed into the lower hole, and a stainless steel tube is connected to the upper hole. The heating pipes are connected to the adapter itself from below.

Bottom connection with flow extension

Flow extender

The bottom connection can be made using a flow extender. The device screws into the bottom hole and does not have any outlets to the top. The circulation of the coolant occurs due to the fact that water, passing through the tube in the middle of the radiator, comes out of it at the end of the heating device, rises, squeezing cold water through the outlet located in the device.

Connecting batteries with bottom connections

Piping in the wall

Now let us dwell on the more effective and most aesthetically acceptable method of lower connection - from below, simultaneously describing its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

Flow direction adapter

• It is possible to install a flow direction adapter.
• Both pipes go directly from the battery into the floor or wall (or into pipes located above the floor).
• When buying radiators with bottom connections, you do not need to worry about purchasing a suitable thermostat, since it is already installed there.

Flaws

You need to bleed the air from the battery

• An air vent must be installed on each battery.
• Warming is less uniform and not as effective.
• Cannot be used for gravity heating systems.
• You need to constantly use the circulation pump.

Advantages of this connection scheme

This type of connection allows for easy concealment of pipes, and the loss of efficiency will be insignificant. The radiator will heat up faster and stronger from below than from above, which is explained by the rapid flow of coolant through it.

Bottom connection

Sometimes efficiency may be reduced due to air accumulation or blockages. Warming up with the lower connection, as noted earlier, is uneven, but it is still no worse than the upper one.

Note! When installing batteries - regardless of the circuit used - you must comply with all installation requirements. First of all, this refers to the proportions between the width of the battery and the window.

Video - What are the benefits of batteries with bottom connections?

Main pros and cons

By installing such heating equipment in rooms, you can achieve harmony and symmetry in the lines

A pipeline hidden under the floor covering will not attract attention and will not spoil the design

At the same time, heating radiators with bottom connections have disadvantages. As noted above, for aesthetic reasons, the pipeline is installed in the floor or hidden from view under the baseboard. If even the most minor accident occurs, repairs are fraught with serious difficulties.

Experts also claim that heating radiators with bottom connections do not have a high level of heat transfer. If we talk about the latter, then in the first place are traditional radiators with a side connection method. They are most often chosen for installation in private households and old apartment buildings. Due to the fact that the supply pipe and outflow are located on one side, the radiator warms up as much as possible. The lower method of supplying coolant is ineffective when using multi-section batteries. These devices may not always warm up completely. This problem is solved with the help of special duct extensions. Most often, steel heating radiators with bottom connections are chosen by homeowners in the private sector where autonomous heating systems are installed.

Master Class. We connect the radiator from the floor using T-shaped tubes

Also, T-shaped connecting tubes can be used to connect the battery from the floor. They are necessary if the line goes under the heating device. Let's look at this process step by step.

T-tube

Step 1. A threaded clamp connection is put on the tube.

Threaded clamp connection is put on

Step 2. After this, the tube is flared.

T-Tube Flaring

Step 3. Next, you can proceed directly to installing the tubes.

Installation of tubes

On a note! In the photo you see that the connecting tubes are installed in different directions.

The tubes are installed in different directions
Step 4. A connection is made using a sliding sleeve. The radiator is connected using T-tubes, and the line goes further to the next heating device.

The heating device is connected using T-tubes

Step 5. The exit of the pipes from the floor can be decorated using overlays in accordance with the finishing floor covering. Overlays can be made for different coatings.

Decorative overlay

Example of using decorative overlays

If there are no high aesthetic requirements for the interior of the room, then you can use a budget connection option using a connecting set. This set is used for cross-linked polyethylene pipes without an aluminum layer.

Connection set

Inside this set there are guides and rings for fixing the pipe. This set is necessary to prevent threaded connections from loosening and to compensate for thermal expansion.

Guides

Ring for fixing the pipe

First, the ring is put on the pipe. Then the clamp is removed from the guide, the pipe is inserted into it and secured with a ring. The latch is inserted.

The ring is put on the pipe The pipe is fixed with a ring

The latch is inserted

The pipe is cut to the required length, after which a connection is put on it and installation is carried out to the heating device.

Pipe cutting

Threaded clamp connection is put on

Installation to a heating radiator

Decorative overlays are installed, pre-cut to size.

Mark the cut location Installation of decorative overlays

Using this element, the two parts are connected to each other.

This element is necessary to connect two parts

Connection of two parts

The connection kit is attached to the ceiling. That's it, the installation can be considered complete.

The kit is attached to the ceiling

Installation work completed

Criterias of choice

A radiator valve is, as a rule, a ball-type device that regulates water flow and connects pipes to the radiator. Installed on the bypass, risers, at the top of the battery, in places where air accumulates to bleed it.

Choosing a suitable faucet is not difficult, just know a few nuances:

• the diameter of the pipes to which it will be connected (DN, in millimeters or inches);
• working pressure (PN, in the range of 15–40 and above);
• type of connection, presence of thread inside or outside, American.

The choice should take into account the purpose of the reinforcement, its location, and the properties of the environment

The ratio of the input and output of the valve in the radiator, their relative position is also important

When choosing, you should consider the characteristics of the cranes:

• Ball valves, although the most common and affordable, are not very effective. It has only two modes: closing/opening;
• a cone valve is a more acceptable option due to the possibility of an intermediate position. Disadvantage: the tap must be returned to its original position and constantly monitored;
• An automatic thermostat is the most efficient, reliable, but also much more expensive than others. When installing it on a one-pipe system, a bypass must be present.

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Correct installation of heating radiators

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

One type of brackets

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of lightweight concrete or covered with plasterboard, floor installation is required. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Legs for installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators on the floor

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, and the lower collector is secured with an arc to the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Dual-circuit battery wiring

A two-pipe heating system differs from a single-pipe heating system by dividing it into two pipes - supply and return of coolant. It ensures uniform heating of all rooms. This type of wiring is used in most new houses.

Principle of operation

In a two-pipe scheme, water from the boiler flows to the radiators through the supply pipe (main).

Near each radiator, the supply line has a connecting inlet pipe through which the coolant enters the battery. The supply line ends near the last radiator.

In addition to the inlet pipe, each radiator has an outlet pipe. He connects it to the return pipe. The return line starts from the first battery and ends at the entrance to the boiler.

Thus, heated water enters the radiators evenly and at the same temperature. From each radiator, water is discharged into the return pipe, where it is collected and supplied to the boiler for subsequent heating. Thanks to this movement of the coolant, all rooms in the room are heated equally.

What is the difference

A two-pipe heating system includes elements of a single-pipe system and additional devices. In addition to the boiler, radiators, supply and return water collection pipes (the so-called return), the two-pipe circuit also includes a circulation pump.

The large length of the lines, the presence of corners and turns in the supply pipes complicate the movement of the coolant. Therefore, its forced circulation by an electric pump is necessary.

Photo 1. Circulation pump model 32-40, voltage 220 Volts, China.

Also, in a two-pipe scheme there are more taps that regulate the water supply and its quantity. Such a tap is installed in front of each radiator - at the inlet and outlet.

Classification by location

In a horizontal two-pipe system, pipes connect the radiators horizontally. This scheme works for heating a one-story house or one floor of a multi-story cottage.

In a vertical two-pipe system, pipes connect radiators located one above the other in one “riser”. However, there are differences from the single-pipe vertical scheme. Here, thanks to the presence of a supply and return pipe, vertical heating can use batteries of any width - multi-section ones (since the supply and return risers can be removed from each other). Therefore, the efficiency of two-pipe vertical heating is higher.

Reference! It is desirable that batteries of rooms located one above the other have the same number of sections. This makes it easier to lay a vertical return pipe.

Bottom and top harness: which is more effective?

The term “lower” and “upper” piping refers to the method of connecting batteries to the heating system. With the lower piping, the incoming water enters the battery through the lower pipe.

If it also comes out of the radiator at the bottom, then the efficiency of the radiator will be reduced by 20-22%.

If the outlet pipe is located at the top, the efficiency of the radiator will be reduced by 10-15%. In any case, with lower water supply to the batteries, the heating efficiency decreases.

With the top piping (supply), the incoming pipe is connected to the radiator in the upper part. In this case, the movement of the coolant is organized more efficiently, the battery will work at 97-100% (97% - if the inlet and outlet pipes are located on one side of the radiator, and 100% - if the inlet pipe is on one side from above, and the outlet pipe is on the other side from below ).

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages:

• Suitable for organizing heating of large private houses, in which case a circulation pump must be installed into the system.
• Heats all rooms on the floor or in the riser evenly.

Flaws:

• It is more expensive than a single-pipe system, since it requires twice as many materials - pipes between the boiler and radiators, as well as connecting devices, taps, and valves.
• The electric circulation pump makes the operation of the system dependent on the availability of electricity.

Important! An increase in the number of pipes and the amount of coolant in the system leads to an increase in hydrodynamic resistance and does not allow water to move by gravity. Forced circulation and a running circulation pump are required

How to determine?

The density can be found out upon purchase by examining the sheet markings. The manufacturer always indicates this characteristic of polycarbonate in the labeling. To correctly select the material of the required density, you can ask the seller to calculate not only the number of sheets, but also this characteristic for a particular design.

High-quality and durable cellular polycarbonate, designed for a long service life, belongs to the middle and luxury price segment. Sheets with a maximum density of 0.82 g/m³, the thickness of which is measured in millimeters, cannot cost less than 1000 rubles.

It is very difficult for an inexperienced person to visually distinguish between sheets of different densities. Therefore, you should always turn to the services of trusted manufacturers who sell their products in a wide range. Such companies will help you choose the right optimal density of cellular or monolithic polycarbonate, which is measured in standard indicators (grams per cubic millimeter).

Recommendations for assembly and installation

The ease of operation of radiators largely depends on the correct installation. Let's consider the main aspects of installing these products.

When choosing a place to install the structure, make sure that there is the required space (7-10 cm) between the structure, the floor and the wall. In addition, free space around the battery will ensure proper air circulation in the room. But the connection points between the battery and the bottom connection should also be freely accessible.

Particular attention should be paid to the correct distribution of the heat flow of the product so that the entire room is heated, and not the space above it

The location of the fastening points also depends on the choice of installation location. When starting installation, the battery, regardless of its type, is left in the packaging from the manufacturer. This will minimize the possibility of scratching the device. Subsequently, the film is easily removed without leaving any traces.

After the installation location has been selected, we begin to develop a connection diagram. Many people do not take this stage of installation seriously. However, an incorrectly designed circuit can negatively affect the battery power.

There are only two types of pipe routing: single-pipe and double-pipe. Bottom connection is possible in both cases. The main task is to choose a method so that heating the temperature in the room is optimal for living.

The coolant with a bottom connection is equipped with a thermostat, thanks to which the temperature heating level in the room is adjusted. It is worth noting that this is not a cheap device - the cost of the battery will increase by about 10%.

One of the important steps in connecting a radiator is connecting the structure with the supply and outlet pipes. It is better to mark the supply and discharge pipes - this will make it easier to repair the structure in the future.

With a lower connection, heat transfer itself is considered ineffective. Therefore, incorrect connection may result in a decrease in the productivity of the device.

Connection steps:

• the radiator is installed on a stand, leveled and the mounting locations are determined according to the number of sections;
• radiators usually come complete with brackets, so the next step is to install the bracket in the prepared holes;
• after installing the device, the upper outlets are closed with a Mayevsky tap and a shut-off cap, while for a more airtight joint they use plumbing flax, winding it clockwise for the right-hand thread, in the opposite direction for the left-hand thread;
• screw on the ball valves and connect the pipes.