Do-it-yourself construction trestles: how to make carpentry folding wooden scaffolding (drawings + photos)

In this article I will tell you and show in detail in photographs how to make reliable wooden scaffolding (or, as they are also called, goats) with your own hands. It took us 100 minutes to assemble them. Their height is 1100mm (from the top platform to the floor). The scaffolding is designed for an apartment ceiling height of 3 meters.

If it is high for you, simply cut the legs to the desired height; if it is low, during manufacturing, cut the legs to the appropriate length.

First, let's look at the building materials and tools that you will need to make wooden construction scaffolds.

Nothing extra: mobile trash can

Forgive me for such a natural comparison, but do you know why the horses that drove chaises around the city had a bag tied under their tails?
Yes, precisely for this reason, to keep the pavement clean. So my working goat got such a device. I cut the rim off the paint bucket and cut off the lid. You can attach a garbage bag between the rim and the lid. And the rim itself was fixed with a movable holder. I hope you liked my construction beast. I will be glad if my experience helps someone with repairs

Thank you, Olga! A charming master class from a real craftswoman! It's nice to look at your work. We don't even have anything to add. The only thing you can do is to suggest complicating the task, as in this short video on creating a multifunctional carpentry table:

Watch this video on YouTube

We are waiting for your impressions and comments, as well as new materials in the section “This is not a woman’s business!”

PHOTO: Olga Yarovaya

Using old polyethylene

In addition, you can cover anything with old film... the same piles of sand for construction, stacks of bricks or decorative tiles for arranging a summer house, bulk materials, feed. You just have to fold it several times, and even old and worn plastic film will become a good protection against moisture.

It will also find excellent use in major construction projects. The film can be used to cover foundations and only poured areas so that the concrete does not dry out and crack in the sun.

In the issue of film, we moved a little away from the main topic of crafts and leftover building materials, but now we are returning to it.

Drawing of construction trestles. DIY installation

When carrying out any work related to repairs or maintenance of the house, it is required to rise to a certain height. If you can screw in a light bulb with a chair, and cover a small crack with a stepladder, then extensive work requires greater mobility.

To move at height, construction trestles, otherwise called scaffolds, are created. Ready-made structures are available in construction stores, but prices run into thousands of rubles. It’s easier to make them yourself, and it costs several times less.

Construction trestle structure

Before you start making construction trestles with your own hands, we select materials for production. There are three main materials from which goats are made:

metal;
tree;
wood-metal combination.

Since metal ones are difficult to create and quite expensive in terms of materials, let’s consider wooden trestles.

After choosing a material, it is worth understanding the conditions of their use. If these are stationary or rarely moved scaffolds, then it is worth creating a disposable scaffold. If you plan to move the trestles frequently, we choose folding trestles.

Before starting carpentry work, we create a drawing and calculate the required height. The standard height for comfortable work for an adult man is 80–90 cm.

For a finished product with a height of 85 cm, legs 95 cm long are needed.

The length must be chosen such that when a construction site board is placed on top, the beam protrudes at least 5–7 cm on each side, but it is better to take it with a margin.

The design is extremely simple, when open it resembles the letter “A”, and can be used both at a low height and with the help of two trestles at full height.

Preparation

After creating the drawing, you need to decide how long the platform will be, and how many trestles will have to be made for it. Goats are always created from two or more - if the board being applied is long and can break in the middle.

Collapsible wooden construction trestles

The advantage of collapsible trestles over a conventional platform is their reusability and the ability to quickly remove them from storage and use. In conventional scaffold construction, only boards fastened with nails are used.

After completion of work, it is difficult to leave them for storage unassembled. To ensure that such scaffolds do not take up much space, they have to be dismantled, which is difficult if they are made with high quality.

Collapsible trestles do not take up much space; they can be transported and used for various needs other than their intended purpose. To create a sawhorse, you need two supports.

To make one support you will need:

four boards for legs - 0.95 m;
board 0.9 m for the top;
three crossbars of 0.85, 0.77, 0.7 m each.

Carpentry work

The goats are assembled in accordance with the recommended instructions.

Make markings on the legs, cut off excess wood on both sides at an angle of 800. The cuts should be parallel.
Use the finished leg as an example and make the rest.
Check that the ends of the top board, which will support the platform, are at an angle of 900.
On the boards of future spacers, measure an angle of 800 at one end and 1000 at the other. Cut.
The blanks are ready, now the space for the top board is cut. To do this, fold the two finished legs into the position that they will take when open, draw an angle of 900, and cut. All the others cut through this leg.
The legs are connected like scissors, a rotation axis is drilled into them, in which the bolts are not fully tightened, allowing the legs to open and close.
All that remains is to make spacers between the finished legs, two on the wide side and one on the narrow side. Then fasten the tension belt to the lower spacers.
One support of the future construction site is ready, the second one is being assembled according to the same scheme.

Collapsible trestles are an easy and inexpensive way to create a construction site that is durable, mobile, and able to support the weight of an adult man, as well as building materials.

Images from www.forumhouse.ru were used for this material.

How to do it yourself?

The most practical and inexpensive option for a construction trestle, which can be made with your own hands, is a folding wooden one. It takes up minimal space and can also be used when working in a country house or apartment. The first thing you should decide on is the height of the legs, it is equal to the height of a person minus 10-12 cm. You can arbitrarily determine the number of spacers and the beam section.

The upper ends of the frame can be connected using door-type hinges. To fix the legs, you should think about a limiter. A couple of pieces of rafter tape are taken and then fixed to the spacers below. The distance should be such as to maintain the stability of the structure. To fix the elements to each other, you can take nails and then bend them on the back side. But in order for the device to be practical and reliable, it is worth using self-tapping screws.

The next step is to prepare the site, the dimensions of which should be selected according to your preferences. It should be able to withstand from 150 to 170 kilograms, and its dimensions should be selected in such a way that the device easily fits into the doorway. The approximate width of the site should be 0.7 meters. To acquire a high-quality construction sawhorse, you will need to prepare no more than 150 centimeters of edged board.

Detailed assembly instructions.

Markings are made on the legs, and excess wood is cut at an angle on both sides. At the same time, do not forget about the parallelism of the cuts.
Using one leg as an example, it’s worth making the rest.
A check is made to ensure that the upper ends are at an angle of 90 degrees.
Future spacers are marked with angles of 80 degrees at one end and 100 degrees at the other.
After preparing the blanks, it is worth cutting a place on them for the top board.
The legs must be connected in the form of scissors, after which the rotation axes must be drilled into them. In the latter case, it is worth not tightening the bolts completely so that the legs can open and close.
Spacers are made between the prepared legs. You should get two spacers on the wide side, one on the narrow side. A tie belt must be attached to them on the bottom side.
Once one support is ready, you can begin assembling the second.

Many construction and renovation jobs involve heights, as the worker constantly has to reach. A ladder and a stepladder limit your freedom of action, but a construction sawhorse is a completely different matter.

You can see how to make construction trestles with your own hands in the following video.

sawhorses for hand sawing

It would seem that this simple device can be improved, and what parameters can be changed, except for the height, to make working on it more comfortable? In the old days, wooden logs were usually sawed by 2 people using a two-handed saw with large teeth.

They were in complete control of the process and with their free hand they held the ends of the log on both sides, and if necessary, they could press on it so that the cut did not pinch the saw blade. And often, when cutting thick logs, they were sawed a little more than halfway and turned 180°. True, the cut was not very even, which created difficulties for installation during subsequent cutting.

The distance between the cross-shaped posts of the goat was usually made slightly less than twice the length of the furnace firebox for which firewood was prepared.

And now such designs have not gone into oblivion, although they have still been improved by adding a third crosspiece for the convenience of working with a one-handed bow saw and reducing the distances between them for less risk of jamming the saw blade.

kozly-dlya-raspilovki-18

kozly-dlya-raspilovki-1

kozly-dlya-raspilovki-3

Some metal trestle structures have been equipped with teeth to better secure logs, and more traditional types have been improved by adding sharp screw-type adjustable stops for the same purpose.

Working has become much more convenient. And, if you have a need to regularly harvest not a very large amount of firewood, then this option for a device for sawing it may be quite suitable for you.

The more convenient it is to carry logs

Carrying logs in your hands is uncomfortable. Especially if they are wet, dirty or covered in ice and snow. The “third” and “fourth” steel hand comes to the rescue - a pincer (grab) grip.

152247User FORUMHOUSE

I was wondering if anyone has used a manual log gripper? Is it worth paying 3,000 rubles for a branded one? I want to order some for myself so I can load the logs. Is it convenient to use?

Russlanych FORUMHOUSE user

I've been using a pincer gripper for 5 years. I have never regretted buying it. I took them for 1500 rubles. My friends told me that he threw away the money, but now I don’t go to the forest for firewood without it.

When purchasing grab pliers, keep in mind that there are models with different grip widths. For example, under logs with a diameter of 20 and 30 cm. With pliers with a large grip, you can grab both large and small logs.

By the way, there is a cheaper option - single-jointed log pliers. Is it worth taking them?

wind1windSuper-Moderator FORUMHOUSE

With a single-joint grip, to prevent the log from slipping out, you will have to squeeze the handles, i.e. make additional physical efforts. On soft wood the force is less, on hard or frozen wood more. In double-jointed grips, compression occurs automatically due to the weight of the lifted log.

Well, for all home-made people, a user with the nickname 152247 offers to make a hand made version of branded pliers with a grip width for a log with a diameter of 30 cm.

In the background is a piece of paper with a 5x5 mm square.

Varieties

Thanks to modern capabilities and technologies, you can buy various types of scaffolding in stores. These structures can have different sizes, assembly methods, production materials, and can also be equipped with various additions. The first type is considered to be ordinary construction scaffolding. They are produced similar to stools, but using more advanced technology. This type of structure is classified as foldable, as it can be disassembled into individual elements. In this case, the largest part is considered to be the working flooring.

Modern versions of construction trestles have decking that can be installed at different heights. This became possible thanks to the features of the sidewalls, which look like stairs. Typically, these devices weigh a lot, since they are designed for the work of several people at the same time. The dimensions of this design are considerable. A professional construction trestle has the following dimensions: 150 (200) cm – width and 180 cm – height. This design option is ideal for working on large objects, but for an apartment it is considered quite cumbersome. Often the construction trestle package includes a ladder, a limiter, and wheels with stoppers.

The second type is a transformer. This is an ideal tool for indoor work and is quite compact when assembled. The main characteristics of this type of construction trestle include light weight, practicality, ease of use and transportation. Due to the design features, this option can be used not only on a perfectly flat surface, but also when inclined and even on steps. Such scaffolding is often used as an alternative to stairs.

The transforming scaffolds have a height of no more than 100 cm, a width of 50 cm. When unfolded, the dimensions are no more than 160 cm, and when folded, the goat can easily fit into a car trunk. Based on the material used, construction trestles are divided into aluminum, wooden and combined. You can also find painting scaffolds with dimensions of 50 by 100 cm on sale.

Start of work: preparation of material

It is more convenient to cut the plywood on a circular saw. If you don’t have one at hand, you can use a hand saw, but in this case the work will be very labor-intensive and time-consuming. A regular electric jigsaw with a suitable blade can also help here.

PHOTO: YouTube.com Plywood scraps are unraveled to the specified size

Dissolving scraps to the desired width

After the plywood scraps are cut to the required length, you need to cut them to width. After all, too wide elements are completely useless here. It's just extra weight. As for strength, when the trestles are assembled, they will be able to withstand more than 100 kg each.

Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions when working with a circular saw. Do not bring your hands too close to the rotating disk

If you need to push the part, it is best to use any piece of board or stick.

PHOTO: YouTube.com When the parts are adjusted to the desired width, you can begin assembly

Assemble the frames

1. To make half-wood joints, install a 19 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine and make test joints on scraps with a cross-section of 19 × 114 mm, setting the sawing depth equal to half the thickness of the workpiece. Cut cutouts in legs A and crossbars B for half-tree joints (Fig. 1 and 2).

2. Glue the A/B leg frames together and secure them with clamps. When installing clamps at half-wood joints, in order to evenly distribute the pressure over the entire gluing area, place wooden scraps under the jaws of the clamps. Check the squareness of the assembled frames.

3. Create a 15° bevel on the top edge of each A/B frame (Photo A).

Set up a circular saw to cut the bevels at 15°, attach a flat board to the A/B leg frame, and cut a bevel on the top edge of the frame.

Features of manufacturing wooden scaffolding

If you decide to make trestles from wood, then the step between the racks can be equal to the limit of 2 to 2.5 meters. As for the width of the flooring, it should be equivalent to one meter. You should not make the structure too high; the maximum height limit is 6 meters. To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 millimeters thick. As for their width, this figure should not appear less than 100 millimeters. You can replace such blanks with a square beam of 10 cm. The racks and stops can be based on round timber. Spacers and barriers are typically made from boards that are 30 millimeters or more thick.

Lower tension strap

The support bar prevents the legs from folding inward. However, a home craftsman can accidentally move them outward, causing the structure to “corrode” and lose its rigidity. To do this, a belt tie is used to secure the opposite lower struts. It is installed using the following technology:

trestles fold out
the middle of the lower strut is marked
a through hole is drilled with a 10 mm drill (for an M10 bolt)
a hole is punched 40 cm from the belt carabiner into which the bolt is inserted

After that, it is enough to secure the bolt with the belt in one spacer with a nut, tighten the belt around the opposite spacer, and cut off the excess length. The same strap secures the support bar to the legs during transportation or storage when folded.

Thus, universal folding trestles can be made on your own with a minimum set of tools within a couple of hours. All parts are ready-made templates, which facilitates the further assembly of the required number of these transformable devices.

Carrying out the assembly

When making scaffolding from metal, the next step will be assembly. To do this, the master is recommended to enlist the help of another person. One of them will have to hold two posts, while the other will have to insert jumpers into them. With the help of short elements you will be able to assemble two sidewalls. Each of the craftsmen, holding one side, begins to insert long jumpers. Once these blanks are in place, you can level everything by laying ladders on them. Before making construction trestles, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. At the next stage, it assumes the possibility of installing subsequent tiers, and you need to use the method described above.

Simple folding do-it-yourself carpentry sawhorses made of plywood

Carpentry trestles are indispensable in the workshop and when building your own home. You can buy them in hardware stores, but they are quite expensive, bulky, heavy and inconvenient to transport.

In order not to spend a lot of money and time, this device can be made from plywood. This design will be lightweight, and thanks to the absence of complex connections and the folding mechanism, it will not take up much space and will allow it to be easily transported in a car.

Materials and tools for work

deck 18-21 mm plywood;
door hinges;
self-tapping screws;
polypropylene rope;
circular saw.

Goats must be selected according to convenience and depending on the height of the master who will use them. Usually, on average, it is 80 cm, the width is about a meter, the width of the leg is 10 cm.

Cutting parts and preparing for assembly

On a sheet of plywood measuring 80 by 200 mm, mark the necessary parts for subsequent cutting.
Cut the parts according to the markings. You will get 9 parts: 4 legs, 2 upper crossbars for the legs, 2 lower crossbars for the legs and an upper support platform.
Drill the places for fastening the screws with a drill of a smaller diameter, countersink the holes in order to subsequently hide the heads of the screws.
If you plan to use the sawhorse outdoors, it is recommended that you coat it with varnish, paint or antiseptic to protect it from moisture and extend its life.

Assembling the trestle

Constructing the support legs. Connect the legs using the upper and lower crossbars. For greater strength, you can use PVA wood glue. Apply a little glue to the joints of the boards, attach the blanks and tighten them with self-tapping screws.
Side connection. Fasten the legs together with furniture hinges to create a folding mechanism.
Attach the top crossbar to the legs. Screw it in with self-tapping screws on only one side so that the trestles can fold and unfold.

Making an opening limiter

To make working with sawhorses safe, you need to ensure that they do not open too much. Installing a limiter will help with this. To do this, you need to drill holes at the bottom of each leg and thread a polypropylene rope through them, tie them and melt them with a lighter.

The result is excellent compact equipment that is necessary for carpentry work. All that remains is to test it for strength and put it into operation.

Using this simple method, you can inexpensively and in just a couple of hours assemble sawhorses with your own hands using a minimal set of materials and tools that can be found at any construction site or workshop.

Having a pair of folding trestles and auxiliary boards, you can saw material up to 6 meters long and carry out carpentry work of varying complexity.

How to do it yourself

To make a bed from timber, you need to familiarize yourself with the stages of the process, develop detailed drawings of the future product, purchase material and accessories. To work, you will need a standard set of tools and consumables.

Before making a bed, the dimensions of the location are taken, the dimensions of the bed are calculated according to the size of the mattress and the number of people who will use it, their height.

Materials and tools

First you need to purchase solid wood. At the same time, you need to monitor the quality of raw materials. The boards must be completely dry and free of bends and cracks. Boards needed:

for making a frame 25x200x2400 mm - 4 pcs.;
for support beams 50x100x2400 mm – 3 pcs.;
for decorative finishing 25x50x2400 mm – 3 pcs.;

For the legs, it is recommended to purchase timber 100 by 100 and 2400 mm.

To create a slatted base you need to buy 19 planks 25x75x2400 mm.

In addition to lumber, you will need 3, 5 and 6 cm screws and metal corners. If solid oak is used, it is better to use ordinary nails for fastening.

To implement the plan you will need the following tool:

tape measure, ruler, building level, square;
circular or hand saw, electric jigsaw;
drill or screwdriver;
grinding machine, sandpaper;
clamps;
glue and putty for wood;
varnish, stain, brushes and rollers.

Frame making

If the bed is planned to be made with legs, the production of a piece of furniture begins with their blanks. To do this, pieces of the required length are cut from 10x10 cm timber. At a height that corresponds to the size of the bed, metal corners are screwed on.

Then 2 pieces are cut from the 5x10 cm beams, the length of which is equal to the dimensions of the mattress. To calculate two more frame boards, subtract 10 cm from the width of the mattress. Then the blanks are placed in the right place and tightly secured to the corners, which are already screwed to the future legs.

The final stage of creating the frame is the installation of transverse boards, which will serve as a shock-absorbing base for the mattress, in increments of 5 cm.

Slats and back

Instead of a slatted base, you can make a base from lamellas, which are more flexible and can withstand heavy weight.

First, special supporting beams with a thickness of at least 4x4 cm are attached to the inside of the side boards of the frame using self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm. The grooves in which the lamellas will be placed are first cut out in the timber, but this step can be dispensed with. Then all that remains is to screw the elements - and the frame is completely ready.

To simplify the manufacture of the headboard and footboard, a chipboard or MDF board is used, from which the header of the required shapes and sizes is cut out with a jigsaw, the edges are sanded and covered with veneer. If possible, it is advisable to make the backrest from wood, using various processing and finishing methods.

Finishing

Giving the finished product an aesthetic appearance is done by treating its surfaces, painting (staining) and opening with varnish. Even if the wood has undergone primary processing in advance, this is not enough to make the bed look beautiful and well-groomed.

Immediately after the frame and its components are ready, all elements are carefully polished with an electric machine and discs. First with a large coating, then with the finest. Finally, polishing is done with a felt disc.

Further finishing depends entirely on the choice of the owners: color, texture, matte or glossy surface, the presence of additional decorative details. All this is used in accordance with the original design.

Collapsible wooden construction trestles

Collapsible trestles do not take up much space; they can be transported and used for various needs other than their intended purpose. To create a sawhorse, you need two supports.

To make one support you will need:

four boards for legs - 0.95 m; board 0.9 m for the top; three crossbars of 0.85, 0.77, 0.7 m each.

Construction trestles - what are they?

If previously scaffolding products were made only by hand, today they can be bought ready-made in the store. Shop sawhorses are typically made of aluminum, making them both lightweight and durable. You can find both folding trestles and monolithic structures. But all such goats have one huge drawback - they are quite expensive. That is why the topic of making construction trestles with your own hands always remains relevant.

As we have already noted, construction trestles or scaffolding come in two types:

1. Foldable. Their advantage is high mobility, compactness for storage after completion of work.

But such scaffolding means should be handled with extreme caution. Before working on them, you need to make sure that they are very stable.2

Not foldable. They are more reliable, since when finished they represent a single structure.

In order to assemble wooden scaffolding, you will need the following materials:

We recommend: Stages of building a private house - where to start correctly

drawing; tape measure; hacksaw or jigsaw; carpenter's corner; simple pencil; screwdriver; self-tapping screws; boards; bolts, washers and nuts (for collapsible trestles).

You need to choose lumber that is dry and smooth, without cracks, chips or knots. If they do not meet these characteristics, then they are only suitable for firewood.

We recommend

Do-it-yourself sawhorses for sawing firewood - a device for sawing with a chainsaw Do-it-yourself scaffolding - how to make it from pipes and wood? Do-it-yourself scaffolding - how to make it from pipes and wood?

Briefly about the main thing

The main advantage of homemade trestles is their low cost and the ability to assemble a structure of exactly the height that the builder needs. If desired, the trestles can be modified at any time - for example, reducing the height, slightly filing the legs, or even adding a second tier. To reduce the cost, instead of wood, in some cases you can use plastic or remnants from profile pipes. To work, you will need a beam of the required size, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, a jigsaw or saw. The work takes 2-3 hours.

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Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners of wooden houses still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult. The principle of connecting pin scaffolds Clamps. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together using specially designed clamps. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters). Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling Frame scaffolding. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter welded to the frame posts on one side

With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash. Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening the crossbars and wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection

On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes. Wedge scaffolding racks and crossbars are connected using wedges and specially shaped locks

Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes. Wedge scaffolding racks and crossbars are connected using wedges and specially shaped locks

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Goat legs and shelf

My goat must have stable legs, because I am going to not only move him around the apartment, but also, if necessary, climb astride him.

I made the legs from a board. I accurately calculated the height of my tool and cut 4 parts

A little about height. Since the device will also be required for working with ceilings, this means its height should be as follows: the distance from the floor to the ceiling, minus 10 cm, minus the height of the builder. This is just the optimal size that will allow you to work comfortably at height.

For greater stability, I trimmed the legs a little, about 1 cm from one end

I fastened the legs with self-tapping screws to the frame all the way through. To prevent the board from bursting, I first made holes using a drill.

Construction trestles are not just a table, they are also a means for moving tools and a ladder, so you will need to make a lower shelf.

The shelf is located approximately in the middle of the height of the leg

At one end, where it will be used as a ladder, I attached a crossbar made of timber

At the other end, where you just need to support the shelf, you can get by with a couple of pieces of timber. Although, in order not to endlessly look under the table to determine which end you can stand at, it is better to place a full beam at both ends

You need to cut a shelf from the same sheet of plywood and carefully sand the edges so as not to collect splinters on your feet

The shelf needs to be secured to the crossbars; the holes for the screws should also be countersunk

To prevent the tools from moving when moving the goat, you will need to make jib bars. I used metal beacons for this

Other goat options

The most widely used for sawing single thick logs with chain saws are various sawhorse designs with fixation of the rear part of the log.

These are the ones that are produced most industrially, besides the cruciform ones.

Their designs are so simple that they do not need detailed descriptions; everything can be seen in the photo. Such sawhorses for sawing firewood can be made by any home craftsman who is more or less able to hold a tool in his hands. The main thing here is the ability to balance the dimensions of the support platform with the size and weight of the logs being cut. It may not have a rectangular shape, or even be completely replaced by stops. I liked this goat design for its simplicity and minimalism.

Or this option, designed for very thick, but not long logs:

And finally, we will present a wooden structure that is very successful for home production, which is also guaranteed to ensure that the saw does not jam due to the small width between the saw stops at the cutting site.

In such sawhorses, the log is laid with equal overhang on the sides for stability, and is sawn in the middle. Next, do the same with the resulting pieces.

In all cases, when making a trestle yourself, you choose the height individually, so that, first of all, it is convenient for you.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Do-it-yourself sawhorses for cutting wood? Easily! Good owners make sure in advance that they have enough firewood in stock for the winter. To prepare them, you must have an indispensable tool for all owners of private houses - a sawhorse for sawing firewood.

This is a fairly simple design that everyone should have in their dacha to make it convenient to process, prepare firewood and saw metal strips or wooden boards with millimeter precision.

Making goats with your own hands is quite simple, and even someone who does not have any special skills can handle it.

Kinds

To make a classic version of such cutting equipment, you will need any of the following materials:

Despite the fact that the design itself is simple, sawing sawhorses can be classified as machines. For this reason, during production, certain conventions must be observed, one of which is the presence of a drawing or plan according to which the assembly will be carried out. When planning, it is worth signing all the dimensions; this also applies to even the smallest details.

Criterias of choice

The main thing to pay attention to when assembling is the dimensions. This will be affected by:. All the time spent on work will depend on what sizes are chosen.

The best option is to make the machine with a height of 0.9 to 1.1 m. Thus, the person who will work will not bend his back too much, and his arms will be positioned horizontally. It will be easy to work and the load on your back will be reduced

All the time spent on work will depend on what sizes are chosen. The best option is to make the machine with a height of 0.9 to 1.1 m. Thus, the person who will work will not bend his back too much, and his arms will be positioned horizontally. It will be easy to work and the strain on your back will be reduced.

Features of using tools when working on sawhorses

If you plan to process wood with a regular two-handed saw, then you will definitely need a reliable support for the second one. For this reason, when planning, take care of the presence of such elements. An affordable option is to create a support from timber, which will give you the advantage of installing a support anywhere. When using a power tool like a chainsaw, make sure there is a sturdy surface on the sawhorse.

Goats for sawing firewood with a chainsaw have their own characteristics, since there are differences in operating rules that affect the safety of the worker. In this case, you will need to take care in advance of a place for free hanging of the material that will be sawn. This way you can avoid the tool getting caught in the sawn blade.

Interesting kitchen utensils

You don't have to turn the boards into plates or even spoons - ultimately, it's still too much recycling and too difficult for many people. But it’s quite possible to limit yourself to an elegant tray or cutting board: in the end it turns out no worse. Among the breeds it is recommended to use:

linden;
birch;
aspen;
pear.

In some cases, juniper wood is also used. All this is used without fear, because high strength is definitely not required.

The design can be stenciled to make your life easier. An almost win-win option is to decorate it with Khokhloma or Palekh.

Assembling the gantry structure

First I decided to make two pairs of “legs” - supports. To do this, I sawed off four bars to size (2 meters each) and to make it easier to cut the grooves (not to get confused with the corners of the cuts) for the steps, I nailed the supports of the future trestles to the floor joists of the barn. I nailed it, of course, I said this strongly, you just need to fix them with nails driven in not to the very top, so that later these nails can be easily pulled out. I nailed the bars, observing the size between them: at the top (0.7 meters) and the size at the bottom (it turned out to be 1.02 meters), after which I marked and made cuts for the steps. I tried to make the size between the steps as large as possible (to reduce the number of steps and the weight, respectively), but so as not to pull my knee to my chin while climbing there, I ended up with a step of 30 cm. I made shallow cuts, about 1 cm. There is no need to weaken the structure too much! I picked out the excess wood with a chisel. Of course, you don’t have to make cuts, but I like it when everything looks aesthetically pleasing.

Try to make the size of the cut a couple of millimeters narrower than the width of the step block, so that they fit tightly into the grooves and do not dangle.

Be sure to round off the sharp corner of the block, where the foot will be placed, with a plane. You can see it in the photo below.

After all the steps are screwed on, we remove this “pair of legs” from the holding nails and install a fixing cross-beam-brace from inside this ladder for reliability. I simply measured it in place, sawed it off and screwed it on with self-tapping screws.

With the second pair of supports, everything is much simpler - I installed two transverse steps and secured them with the same fixing slope as the first pair of legs, only in the opposite direction.

On the outer sides of the “legs” at the top, where the platform will be attached, we make cuts for the side bars of the platform.

We make a working platform

To do this, we will need two bars (1.65 m) and inch boards sawn to fit the width of the platform (70 cm each). We assemble the platform shield by fixing the boards to the bars with self-tapping screws.

Important! Leave a small gap of 5-10 mm between the boards so that there is somewhere for rainwater to flow

Putting the construction sawhorses together

Now all that remains is to put the three parts together. It will be more convenient to carry out these works “on the side”. We insert the upper ends of the “ladder legs” into the cuts of the platform bars and fix them for now with one self-tapping screw on each side so that they can “dangle”, as it were, changing the angle.

We carry out the same operation with the second pair of “legs”.

Well, now you can put the still unfinished sawhorses into working position. By spreading or bringing together the support bars, we change the degree of their inclination and achieve a stable position of the goats on the ground.

To consolidate the result, you should immediately install a spacer-limiter between the support with steps and the second pair of “legs” so that they do not move apart.

Now you can tighten one more screw in the places where the working platform is attached to the supports, and also install another side brace-clamp. We saw off the excess protruding ends of the brace bar.

Now the construction trestles should be placed on their sides and the ends of the bars that rest on the ground should be cut off at the desired angle to the ground. You can also attach small railings, this is optional. It’s somehow more comfortable for me to feel support, albeit weak!

So they passed the test with an “excellent” rating, although they were, of course, a bit heavy - it’s not easy to move them alone, even though the wood has dried out over time. To move on loose soil or sand, you can place pieces of linoleum under the legs, as in the photo below.

Any repair and construction work must be carried out at height. In a figurative sense, this is the default, but it also happens that you have to literally rise above your capabilities. Physically. To the heights. And the first thing the hand reaches for is the stepladder. Everything would be fine, but the stepladder limits freedom of action so much that not every job becomes possible. But construction scaffolding, or trestles, is a completely different matter. You can fit on them and with an assistant and attach the necessary equipment or material that should be at hand. The goat-building industry is not yet at a sufficient level of development, so you have to make the scaffolding yourself.

How to make construction trestles with your own hands: Review of options + Video and Photo

Construction trestles are a practical solution that allows you to be on a hill and move freely.

General information

Nothing can compete with goats in this. They can be made from:

Trees,
metal,
Mixed (wood and metal).

What types of goats are there?

If a little earlier such supports for work could only be made independently, now they are freely available in any hardware store. Most often, sawhorses from the store are made of aluminum, thanks to this they are very durable and stable, and also have very little weight.

There are two types of construction scaffolds:

Foldable. Very comfortable, compact trestles when folded are very convenient to store. But you should also be careful with them; they should always be checked for stability.
Not foldable. They are extremely convenient to work on and stable, as they represent a single support. But in this case it will not be very convenient to store them.

Aluminum trestles are quite difficult and cost-effective to install at home. Therefore, wooden goats are a good option. After all, wood is very practical and convenient.

Installation

For installation you will need:

Scheme,
Tape measure (for measuring wooden panels before starting work),
Saw (used to cut boards),
Pencil (for marking),
Drill (for fastening boards with screws; when working with electric tools, you must know and follow safety precautions),
Screws,
Bolts, nuts, etc.
Carpenter's Corner,
Wooden material.

Note! It is necessary to choose a material without cracks and knots. If they do not correspond, then it is under no circumstances recommended to use such material

Assembly diagram

It is necessary to place on a flat surface five wooden bases with dimensions of 1500x100x30, and three with dimensions of 500x100x30 mm. Place boards with smaller dimensions on the edge side so that the distance between them does not exceed 1.5 m.

The third must be placed exactly between them. Place two larger boards on top of the smaller ones in the shape of a rectangle. The board in the middle, the length of which is 0.5 meters, must be leveled using a tape measure.

Next, be sure to check whether the structure is even and connect everything using self-tapping screws.

Place two more boards in the shape of a rectangle on the inverted structure and connect them. It turns out to be flooring or an area for work.
Take four more wooden panels with dimensions 1100x100x30 and attach them at the ends. The result is a structure somewhat reminiscent of a table.
The next step is to strengthen the structure with boards 1700x100x30mm and 1500x50x30mm. They must be attached so that the opposite reinforcements are in different diagonals.
And the last point is attaching the ladder. For more convenient operation, the steps at the bottom can be made with a small protrusion. You select the length of the stairs based on individual preferences.
That's it, your goats are ready. But for safe construction and repair work they need to be checked. To do this, we place any objects with a large weight on the surface; if the trestles can withstand it, then you can not be afraid and safely use them in installation.

Features of metal goats

If you do not have the opportunity or desire to install wooden trestles yourself, you can purchase metal ones. They are more stable for any type of work.

Types of metal scaffolding:

Pin,
Khomutovy,
Frame,
Wedge (have one of the most complex connections, in the form of disks welded to straight posts and pipes. The lock is located on the disk, the wedge fits into the hole. The advantage of such scaffolding is that they are very easy to assemble and disassemble, and move to another place.)

It is necessary to choose construction trestles very carefully, taking into account the complexity of the future work, the degree of load and cost.

You can also purchase materials for self-assembly, or already manufactured parts that just need to be fastened together.

Choosing a place to build

When choosing a place to build a goat house, give preference to a small hill or plain. In the lowlands, the barn will be damp, which means the animals will constantly get sick and waste away.

Before construction, the area for construction must be cleared of vegetation: remove trees and shrubs with maximum uprooting of the root system. After preparatory work, level the area.

Keep in mind that each adult goat needs about 1 square meter. m. area, and for kids - 0.6-0.8 square meters. m. Place the building on site so that the façade and walking pen are located on the south side.