Planting and caring for winter garlic in different regions of Russia

Author: Olena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=21 Published at Gorodny Roslin Published: 29 Spring 2015 Revised: 26 September 2021 Remaining edits: 26 September 2021

Zmist

• Koli sadhati chasnik before winter Planting lines for the chasnik in spring 2021
• Landing for the chasnik at the spring of
• Koli sajati chasnik in zhovtni 2021 fate
• Clock planting terms for winter leaf fall 2021
• Planting an hour for babies 2021 before winter
• If a watchmaker is better than sadjati

Chasnik (lat. Allium sativum) is a rich herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Tsibulya from the homeland of Amarylisova pidrodina Tsibulevi. This vegetable culture has been popular among rich peoples of the world for six thousand years - a source of demand both in cooking and in medicine. The real ones are not only the plant stem, but also the leaves, shoots and flower stalks of young plants. The Fatherland grew up in Central Asia, and the chasnik was introduced into culture in the Georgian regions of Afghanistan, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. For many years it was believed that the chasnik resembled a long-pointed tsibula, widened in the Girsky gorges of Turkmenistan and the Tien Shan, and further research confirmed this hypothesis - the chasnik is not genetically related It depends on what type of cybula it is, so with high probability it can be confirmed that the timekeeper is a variety tsybuli. Grow it both in the spring and in the winter way. This article will tell you how to properly plant winter varieties.

How does winter garlic differ from spring garlic?

Garlic is cultivated in two ways: planted either in the fall or in the spring. The productivity of winter crops is higher, but only spring crops are suitable for long-term storage - they can last for about a year.

Winter garlic is grown to produce an early harvest and edible shoots, but not all varieties produce flower stalks.

Spring garlic does not form shoots, with the exception of the Gulliver variety.

Bulbs grown in winter and spring can be distinguished by their appearance.

Winter garlic has a sharper taste, while spring garlic is sweeter. At the end of the arrow, an “air bulb” is formed, that is, a bag of seeds. This allows the crop to be propagated not only by slices.

How to distinguish a winter variety

In order to grow a crop for the winter period, you need to figure out how to distinguish winter varieties from spring varieties, which are usually planted in the spring. For convenience, we have summarized all the signs in a table:

Planting dates for winter garlic

Before frost arrives, cloves planted in the ground should have time to take root. But germination should not be allowed in the fall - if the children produce a lot of green mass, they will freeze in winter.

Therefore, do not plant garlic until the temperature drops to +10...+12°C. But it is important that after planting at least 25 days pass until stable subzero temperatures are established, and 30-40 days until the ground freezes.

Suitable conditions for planting cloves in central Russia occur no earlier than September 25, but no later than October 5.

In the southern regions of the country, garlic can be planted from October 25 to November 5, in the northern regions - in the second half of September.

Planting fruit tree seedlings in autumn

Although spring planting is most often practiced, autumn planting also has its advantages (Figure 4). For example, in the fall it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since there is an opportunity to see the fruits that a certain variety produces. In addition, seedlings planted in autumn do not require much trouble; watering in dry weather conditions will be sufficient. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.

Figure 4. Rules for planting fruit crops in autumn

Most often, autumn procedures are practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not at risk of hypothermia due to mild winters. However, you should remember the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Severe frosts and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only damage seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise not to plant fruit crops such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, sweet cherry, almond and cherry in the fall.

Deadlines

The optimal time for autumn planting is the end of September - October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should know that these terms are quite arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.

Therefore, it is still better to navigate by the condition of the seedlings. The best time for planting is the dormant period, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.

Planting dates for winter garlic according to the lunar calendar 2021

To be on the safe side, many gardeners try to time the work of planting and caring for plants to coincide with the phases of the earth’s satellite.

It is believed that during the waxing Moon, above-ground organs (leaves, stems, branches) actively develop, and during its waning, roots.

Accordingly, the period from the full moon to the new moon is more favorable for planting crops whose fruits ripen in the soil, which includes garlic.

Moreover, it is necessary for the teeth to quickly grow strong roots.

1. In the fall of 2021, the Moon will begin to wane on September 22. This period will last until October 5 inclusive.
2. The next time the satellite will be in its descending phase is from October 21 to November 4.
3. On the full moon (September 21, October 20) and especially on the new moon (October 6-8, November 5-7), planting any plants is not recommended.
4. On the days of the new moon, it is worth postponing all gardening work.

When choosing the timing of landing, the zodiac sign in which the Moon is located is also taken into account.

The most fertile are Pisces, Cancer, Libra, the barren are Aries, Leo, Sagittarius, Capricorn. At the average level - Gemini, Scorpio, Taurus, below average - Virgo and Aquarius.

The most favorable days (waning moon and fertile sign):

• September – 1, 2, 3, 29, 30;
• October – 26, 27;
• November – 2, 3, 29, 30.

Favorable dates (fertile sign, but waxing Moon):

• September – 19, 20;
• October – 16-18;
• November – 12-14, 22-24.

Neutral days (signs of average fertility, any phase):

• September – 10, 11, 24-28;
• October – 9, 21-25;
• November – 4, 17, 18, 20, 21.

Unfavorable dates (barren signs in any phase, days of full moons and new moons):

• September – 4-9, 12-18, 21-23;
• October – 1-8, 10-15, 19, 20, 28-31;
• November – 1, 5-11, 15, 16, 19, 25-28.

Planting a clock before winter 2021: how and when

Author: Natalya Published at Gorodny Rosliny Published: 01 March 2021 Updated: 30 January 2019

Chasnik (lat. Allium sativum) is a rich herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Tsibulya from the homeland of Amarylisova pidrodina Tsibulevi. This vegetable culture has been popular among rich peoples of the world for six thousand years - a source of demand both in cooking and in medicine. The real ones are not only the plant stem, but also the leaves, shoots and flower stalks of young plants. The Fatherland grew up in Central Asia, and the chasnik was introduced into culture in the Georgian regions of Afghanistan, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. For many years it was believed that the chasnik resembled a long-pointed tsibula, widened in the Girsky gorges of Turkmenistan and the Tien Shan, and further research confirmed this hypothesis - the chasnik is not genetically related It depends on what type of cybula it is, so with high probability it can be confirmed that the timekeeper is a variety tsybuli.

Grow it both in the spring and in the winter way. This article will tell you how to properly plant winter varieties.

Choosing a planting site and soil

When deciding on a site for winter garlic, keep in mind that the rooted cloves must remain viable, surviving autumn rains, frosts, thaws, and spring snow melting.

It is unacceptable to place the bed in lowlands where precipitation flows, or in wetlands where groundwater runs too high. In such conditions, the children will rot in the spring.

It is best to plant garlic at higher elevations. If the entire garden is in a lowland, an artificial embankment is made.

The culture develops normally only in areas that are well lit during the day. In the shade, the plant slowly forms bulbs and loses resistance to disease.

The likelihood of diseases is lower in a bed that is blown by the wind, but a fence, building or dense bush on the north side is necessary.

You can make a fence from scrap materials - plywood, boards, slate.

Soil requirements:

1. The soil should be loose, but not too light. Sandy soils are not suitable, nor are dense clay soils; the best option is light loams and chernozems.
2. Garlic does not like either acidic or alkaline soils. The optimal acidity level is pH 6.5-7.
3. The land should be fertile, but areas that were fertilized with fresh organic matter this season are not suitable for planting winter garlic. Young humus or compost contains a lot of nitrogen, which provokes an increase in green mass, which is unacceptable on the eve of winter.

How to plant a chapel before winter - for practical reasons

Chasnik is not a flexible crop that can grow on any kind of soil, but in order to get a bright, healthy harvest, it is recommended to create the most favorable conditions for planting. Yaki?

• Miscenahodzhennya. You don’t love a chasnik if you sit him too quickly on one and the same place. It is important to periodically change the location of growing crops, rather than planting them after such plants as cibula, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. These vegetables are infected with fusarium, which often infects the head of the plant. If you plant it after watermelon, cabbage or legumes, you will not only save it from unpleasant diseases, but also create a friendly mind for full growth.
• Dobrivo. Do you want to bring food for the winter season? Before planting, it is not recommended to fertilize the soil with mineral or organic fertilizers; sprouts react positively to neutral, non-acidic soil, and additional fertilization often oxidizes the soil. In the dobrova pit, you can vikorize peat, which is a trace of digging from the soil.
• Sleepy light. Immediately after planting, an important step is the rooting of the crop, which will reveal a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light. It’s not good for him to plant a chapel in the shade or under a sloping tree. Try to find out the place on the rise.

How to plant a clock before winter so that there is great growth? For whom is there a bunch of secrets? First, thoroughly soak the heads of the chasnik in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This protects the plant from infection and attacks by various infections. You can also use a strong dose of kitchen salt. A healthy culture means great fruits. Otherwise, it is necessary to remove the “maternal” baby, which most often inhibits growth.

After what crops can garlic be planted before winter?

Planting garlic twice in a row in the same bed is harmful - it will be possible to return the planting to its old place only after 3-4 years.

If crop rotation is not observed, the soil will quickly deplete and accumulate a mass of pest larvae and microorganisms that attack garlic.

Accordingly, areas in which plants susceptible to the same diseases were cultivated, as well as crops that severely deplete the soil, are also not suitable.

Onions, root vegetables and some herbs are not suitable as precursors:

• potato;
• onion;
• celery;
• carrot;
• turnip;
• radish;
• parsnip;
• parsley;
• basil;
• dill;
• arugula.

It is optimal to plant garlic after annuals with a short growing season, such as:

• white cabbage of early varieties;
• melons (zucchini, squash, cucumber, pumpkin);
• legumes (peas, beans, lentils, soybeans, alfalfa);
• some cereals (wheat, rye).

Mid-season and late-ripening cabbage greatly impoverishes the soil; planting garlic after them is possible if there are no other options, but it is not advisable.

The situation is similar with corn, tomatoes, eggplants, beets, and peppers. Of the cereal crops, oats and barley are not very suitable.

Good and bad neighbors

Diseases and pests move from one planting to another, so in adjacent beds it is worth placing plants that are resistant to each other’s pathogens.

Crops that are well compatible with garlic:

• tomatoes;
• carrot;
• horseradish;
• radish;
• turnip;
• beet;
• chicory;
• salads;
• calendula.

Should not be placed next to garlic:

• lentils;
• parsnip;
• beans;
• peas.

The culture itself is capable of suppressing the activity of rust fungi and late blight, as well as repelling some pests - spider mites, carrot flies, aphids, mole crickets, and whiteflies.

Rust mushroom

To protect other plants, garlic is planted around the perimeter of the bed and in several rows inside its area.

Neighborhood with it will bring the greatest benefit:

• tomatoes;
• cucumbers;
• carrots;
• beets;
• cabbage;
• strawberries;
• bulbous flowers (daffodils, hyacinths, gladioli, tulips, etc.).

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs when planting

Experienced gardeners have long noticed that some fruit trees and shrubs feel uncomfortable next to other plants or, on the contrary, successfully coexist with them. In the first case, the roots of the plants may be at the same depth and interfere with each other. A situation occurs when one of the plants releases substances into the soil that inhibit the development of others. Therefore, when planning to plant fruit and berry plants, do not be too lazy to look at the table of their compatibility (Figure 8).

For example, apple trees can get along with almost any garden crop, except rowan. Red and black currants do not tolerate proximity to each other and to raspberries, since their root system inhibits the neighboring plant. For this reason, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a separate area. Gooseberries cannot coexist with black currants, and they are not friendly with raspberries.

You will find more information about the compatibility of fruit and berry crops in the video.

Preparing the soil for planting garlic before winter

Before planting, it is necessary to clean the area and improve the soil. Try to carry out all the preparatory procedures a month and a half before placing the cloves in the soil - this is how long it takes for the earth to settle.

First, remove all plant debris from the garden bed and remove weed rhizomes.

If the soil in the garden is not suitable for cultivating garlic, adjust it to the required parameters:

1. Sandy soil needs to be made more nutritious. Add a bucket of peat and compost or humus to each square meter. Organic matter must be rotted, otherwise the plants will receive too much nitrogen.
2. If the soil is dense, clayey, its looseness needs to be increased. To do this, add a bucket of lowland peat and the same amount of sand to each square.
3. Acidify alkaline soil with high-moor peat (a bucket per 1 m2).
4. In case of high acidity, apply to each square. meter of 200 g of wood ash. Can be replaced with slaked lime, dolomite or bone meal.

Distribute the required component over the bed and dig the area to a depth of 25-30 cm. Now sprinkle the fertilizer evenly.

For rooting and good head growth in spring, winter garlic requires phosphorus. Potassium increases resistance to frost and other unfavorable factors.

If wood ash was used to reduce the acidity of the soil, it is enough to add potassium fertilizer - the ash contains phosphorus.

But it cannot be applied to slightly acidic soils; in this case, use mineral fertilizer.

Superphosphate is suitable as a source of phosphorus. Potassium is best given in the form of potassium sulfate: this substance also contains sulfur, an important nutrient for garlic. Apply 20 g per 1 m2 of both products.

Level the soil with a rake, incorporating the fertilizer shallowly. Form beds about 20-25 cm high, in lowlands make them higher.

The standard width for planting garlic is 1 meter. At the end of the procedure, water the prepared area.

If there is no rain, irrigate it a couple of times a week, otherwise the soil will not shrink.

For the last time before planting, water the bed with Fitosporin-M solution to prevent fungal diseases.

Preparing the beds

In order for the garlic to take root and for the harvest to be as rich as possible, preparatory work must be carried out before sowing.

The ground must be prepared

Soil preparation

Already at the end of summer you can begin to fertilize the soil. To do this you should enter:

• 10 kg of humus
• 200 g chalk
• 500 gzola
• Potassium sulfate – 3 tbsp.
• Superphosphate – 2 tbsp.

This amount of fertilizer will be needed for each square meter of beds intended for vegetables; fertilizers are laid to a depth of at least 15 cm.

Forming a bed

The optimal bed for winter garlic is an area about 100 cm wide and about 30 cm high. After the soil has been dug up, you need to let the soil rest, that is, let the soil settle. If there is little precipitation during this period, it is recommended to water the soil several times.

Do not rush too much and plant garlic in winter immediately after digging the beds. This will negatively affect how the plant will develop, it is likely that the cloves will be too deep, the germination period will increase, which will affect the yield.

How to choose winter garlic for planting

For reproduction, cloves are selected from large bulbs - heredity will allow them to form the same large head. The slices themselves should not be small or too bulky - approximately 4-6 g each. Ideally, 5-6 children are placed around the rod.

A small clove from a large onion has more potential than a large clove from a small head. If the onion has no arrow, only the cloves from the outer row are taken from it.

Garlic selected for planting should be free of stains, damage, mold, and areas of rotting. If at least one segment is affected, there is a high probability that the entire bulb is infected. Teeth with cracked scales should also be discarded.

Winter varieties of garlic

Personal farms often cultivate local species or store-bought garlic, especially since most varieties are not zoned and can be grown in any region.

But it’s worth understanding the varieties of this crop, especially if the garlic suffers from diseases or freezes from year to year.

For 2021, the Russian register included 73 varieties intended for planting before winter.

General characteristics and maturation times

Most varieties of winter garlic are highly productive and produce at least 900 g of fruit per square planted.

Varieties with lower productivity are compensated by resistance to diseases, cold, and long shelf life.

The keeping quality of winter garlic is not the best; on average, the bulbs do not spoil for about six months. But there are varieties whose fruits are stored for 7-8 months or longer.

Different varieties of garlic differ in the taste of the fruit - winter garlic can be sharp or semi-sharp, as well as the presence or absence of arrows.

The ripening period corresponds to the period of time that separates the emergence of seedlings from the harvesting of the crop.

Winter garlic is:

• early - the harvest is harvested in 80-90 days;
• average – after 90-120;
• late – more than 120.

The best winter varieties of garlic

When choosing a variety for planting before winter, the fertility of the site, the climatic zone of cultivation, whether the garlic is cultivated for sale or for the needs of the family, whether storage is intended, etc. matter.

The only advice that is suitable for all cases: choose high-yielding and unpretentious varieties that can grow in any climate. The best of them are described below.

Bogatyr

A medium-ripening variety that produces arrows. It tolerates winter well and produces a decent harvest that is stored for a long time.

Large bulbs are rounded and flattened; the scales of the clove are purple in color.

The main disadvantage is that the heads begin to crack as soon as they sit in the ground for a little while.

Komsomolets

Bolting garlic, mid-season. The head is dense, covered with white or light gray husk with a purple or brown tint. The size of the bulbs depends on the fertility of the soil.

The variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to diseases, in particular bacterial rot. The fruits are well stored.

Bogolepovsky

Mid-season garlic without arrows, productive. Forms large heads of rounded-flat shape. The bulbs contain many cloves in white scales.

The taste of the slices can be either spicy or semi-sharp; the weather has a big influence.

Reliable

A shooting variety with a medium ripening period. The heads are round, the scales of the babies are white with a purple tone.

The harvest is stored as long as possible for winter garlic; the bulbs do not spoil even in warm weather. High resistance to frost.

The main disadvantage is that this variety is not easy to find on sale.

Love

An early variety of winter garlic. The bulbs are very large, the slices are wrapped in cream-colored scales. The husk covering the top of the head becomes white as it dries.

The variety has recently appeared on the market, so its properties have not been fully studied.

Novosibirsk

The variety was created back in the USSR. It is distinguished by its earliest ripening period - 75-81 days. The bulbs are round-flat, cloves weigh 2.5 g each, and the scales are light pink.

This garlic is not susceptible to fusarium and tolerates winter well. The downside is that the bulb is not very dense; the slices can quickly dry out during storage.

In memory of Ershov

Mid-season garlic that does not shoot out shoots. Classic flattened bulb, scales and husk are white.

The variety is frost-resistant and productive, but the fruits do not last long, even for winter garlic.

Scorpion

Medium ripening garlic. The bulbs are large and round. The scales of the babies are brown, the upper husk is lilac in color.

A productive and winter-hardy variety, but it can be difficult to acquire.

Rusich

One of the best varieties of winter garlic - it is characterized by high yield, resistance to frost, and mild taste. Mid-season, forms arrows.

The flesh of the segments is cream-colored, they are simple in shape, and the bulb is rounded and flattened. The scales of the babies are brown, the upper husk is yellowish-white.

Caesar

Medium-season, universal variety. The heads are of a standard shape, dense, shoot, resistant to bottom rot. The husk is gray with purple stripes.

Garlic of this variety produces stable yields, but there is always a significant variation in size between bulbs of the same season.

Sagittarius

Another mid-season garlic that forms arrows. The bulb is round, flattened. The scales of the clove are brown, the husk is white.

The variety shows high resistance to frost and high yield. But the slices dry out a lot during storage.

Among the undemanding productive varieties of winter garlic it is also worth noting:

1. Alcor.
2. Hermann.
3. Gribovsky 80.
4. Gribovsky Yubileiny.
5. Sofievsky.
6. Saved.
7. Garkua.
8. Lyubasha.
9. Harpek.
10. Elenovsky.

Which GARLIC to choose for planting for the winter? Spring garlic, winter garlic, overview of varieties.

Varieties of winter chasnik

In order to achieve success in the growing winter season, it is important to choose adaptations to suit your variety. There are varieties of the clock with arrows and such that the arrows do not close. Those varieties that give shoots are more vibrant and winter-hardy. We present to you the characteristics of several popular winter varieties, among which you can find the one that suits you.

• Lyubasha is a variety of Ukrainian selection with winter hardiness and dryness, miraculously preserved for up to 10 months without loss of berry. The height of the stem is 90-120 cm, the number of cloves is up to 7 pieces, the average weight of one clove is 15-10 g. The cibulina is white with dark purple veins.
• Ukrainian white - grows in both spring and winter crops. The variety does not shoot, but is miraculously preserved, the yield of cibulin is from 50 to 140 g, the number of cloves of cibulin is from 4 to 12 pcs.
• Spas is also a Ukrainian variety, bred by Lviv breeders, with high yield and keeping quality. The number of cloves is 7 to 9, the average weight of cibulin is 60 to 100 g. Resistant to nematodes and fusarium.
• Jubilee Gribovsky is one of the finest old varieties with a very welcoming taste, high yield, keeping quality and resistance to illness and disease. Cibulin weighs about 40 g and consists of 5-8 cloves.
• Yuviley 07 is a productive variety, resistant to fusarium, and is well preserved. Cibulina white-buzkova with streaks, consists of 5-8 cloves, tastes delicious.
• Reliable – a fruitful variety with a full-bodied relish, preserved in a warm place, white cibulin with bubbly streaks, consists of 6-7 cloves.
• Violet Kharkovsky is a productive variety that produces shoots and is resistant to illness. Cibulina is violet, rounded and flattened, weighing from 30 to 60 g, number of cloves up to 6 pieces.
• Messidor is a productive variety developed in Holland. Cibulina has up to 10 denticles.

Preparing garlic cloves for planting before winter

The final sorting and culling of garlic cloves is carried out immediately before or shortly before planting.

The fact is that it is not recommended to divide the onion into slices in advance, since the bottoms of the children - the solid formation in the lower part from where the roots grow - may dry out.

If you do this more than 2-3 days before placing it in the ground, the planting material will take root poorly or will not take root in the garden bed at all.

The root growth zone must not be damaged mechanically, so separate the baby bulbs from the stem very carefully, trying not to injure their outer shell.

If the head does not separate well, place it in water for 2 minutes, then carefully disassemble it.

Now you can examine all the slices. Select the largest ones, with intact scales, without cracks or stains.

The beginnings of roots should be visible on the bottoms.

Before placing the cloves in the soil, soak them in a disinfectant solution. For this purpose, you can use both store-bought drugs and home remedies.

A simple way to plant winter garlic before winter. Preparing garlic for planting

Drug Maxim

Non-toxic fungicide. Protects for 48 days after treatment. Only unsprouted cloves with an intact shell can be soaked in the solution.

Prevents damage to garlic by bottom rot, gray rot, black rot, and penicillium rot.

To treat 1 kg of children you will need 1 liter of solution. Dilute 2 ml of the product in this volume of water and soak the garlic for a quarter of an hour.

Use the working fluid no later than 24 hours after preparation. If you store it longer, it will stop working.

Fitosporin-M

Effective biological fungicide. It is best to choose the drug in the form of a paste; the liquid product is less effective, and the powder is less soluble in water and cannot be stored.

First, the paste must be dissolved in a small volume of water (proportion 1:2), this concentrate can be stored for a long time. Immediately before treatment, the primary solution is diluted with water.

To treat garlic before planting, dilute 8 ml of this concentrate in 1 liter of clean water. Soak the slices in this solution for at least 30 minutes, but no longer than an hour. If Fitosporin is in powder form, dissolve half a teaspoon in 1 liter of water. In this case, soak the teeth for 15 minutes.

Fundazol

This product is toxic to humans, so take all precautions when using it.

The drug is usually available in powder form. Dissolve 20 g of the substance in 1 liter of water and soak the garlic for a day.

Home Remedies

You can prepare a disinfectant solution yourself. Tools that are usually available on the farm of even an amateur summer resident are suitable for this.

1. Copper sulfate. Dissolve 10 g of powder in 1 liter of water. Soak the teeth for 3-4 hours.
2. Potassium permanganate. Place a couple of crystals in 5 liters of water. The solution should turn out pink. Soak the garlic overnight or 3-4 hours.
3. Birch tar. Dilute 1 teaspoon of tar in 1 liter of water. Immerse the slices in this solution for half an hour.
4. Salt. Dissolve 2 tablespoons in 1 liter of water. Soak the garlic in salt water for 30 minutes.

The most effective of these remedies is copper sulfate, followed by tar. Potassium permanganate and salt do not provide complete protection.

Types of planting material

With proper planting and suitable soil, garlic successfully takes root and adapts to even the most severe frosts. Toward the beginning of March, the plant normally begins to produce green shoots. By summer, arrows appear at the planting site, which, as a rule, are removed if the gardener wants to improve the quality of the upcoming harvest. If you want to get planting material, you can leave the arrows from the largest bulbs.

The timing of harvesting depends on the type of planting material you choose.

As they grow, the arrows move from a spiral state to a straight one. At the moment when the arrows straighten completely, it makes sense to harvest the crop that will appear on the peduncle. To obtain a harvest, you need to follow the instructions step by step:

1. Carefully remove the plants from the soil and tie them into bunches;
2. Store the bunches in a dry, warm place for at least thirty days;
3. A month later, carefully examine the plant and roughly divide it into two parts: bulbs and heads with bulbs. It is the bulblets that are the most valuable planting material.

Bulbs are smaller in size than cloves, but are capable of producing excellent yields

Important! In no case should you delay collecting the bulbs, because if they fall into the ground before you get to them, small garlic bushes will grow from them.

Planting different types of material

The timing of its immersion in the soil will depend on the planting material you prefer.

Table 1. Types of planting material

Single-toothed bulbs can also be used as seed

When choosing a specific planting material, you should focus on the time frame. So, from the cloves you will get a ripe bulb within a year after planting. In order for the bulbs to produce a bulb, they need to go through two stages, which respectively take two years.

Features of planting bulbs

Although bulbs require more favorable planting conditions, they are considered the most effective way to achieve garlic growth. The fact is that one winter bulb contains up to twelve cloves, while one arrow contains up to a hundred miniature bulbs, each of which is capable of bearing fruit.

There are many times more bulbs in one arrow of garlic than in one head of cloves.

Important! Before planting, it is recommended to keep the bulbs in the refrigerator or cold cellar for several days to increase their yield.

As the bulb matures, we get a single-toothed bulb, the miniature clove of which reaches a size of no more than three millimeters. If desired, single-clove onions can already be used for cooking. However, if you want to finish the job, you should replant the one clove in the soil in the autumn season, after which it will develop into full-fledged large heads of garlic.

Despite the fact that bulblets are planted in the off-season, spring is more suitable for them

Methods for planting winter garlic cloves in open ground

Garlic can be planted in furrows or holes. The distance between rows, tines in one row and depth are determined by the planting pattern.

But, regardless of the chosen method, the sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First make the rows by digging grooves or holes. Place them parallel to each other.
2. If the soil is heavy or the soil has not been prepared, place a layer of sand or rotted compost at the bottom of the hole or furrow. In dense soil, the bulb may rise on the roots and be closer to the surface.
3. It is also advisable to sprinkle a handful of tobacco dust at the bottom. This will protect the garlic from nematodes and other soil pests.
4. Place the teeth in the holes, bottom down. Do not press them into the ground so as not to compact the soil underneath - it will be more difficult for roots to grow through it.
5. Fill holes or grooves with soil.
6. Water the garden bed. To do this, you can use a solution of Fitosporin - at the same time it will protect the plants from fungi. But if the planting material has been disinfected, you can water it with clean water.

There are three main schemes for planting garlic. One of them is classic - the first option is used everywhere. The other two methods began to be used relatively recently.

Option one

Regular row seating. Place large cloves in the furrow at a distance of 14 cm, the optimal distance for small ones is 8 cm. Leave 25 cm between rows.

Plant to a depth of 3-4 cm, the larger the slice, the deeper. Place the seeds at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other at a depth of 2-3 cm.

Option two

Two-tier planting, in which one child is placed at a depth of 6-7 cm, and the second at 13-14 cm. Maintain a distance of 15 cm between pairs of cloves. Leave the same distance between the rows.

This scheme allows you to use the garden bed space more productively. In addition, in the event of a winter with little snow and frost, the planting on the upper level may die, but the one under it will survive.

A two-tier planting scheme is preferable to the usual one when growing in the northern regions.

Option three

This scheme also involves two-tier planting, but in a checkerboard pattern. In one row, place the slices to a depth of 6-7 cm, and in the next row - to a depth of 13-14 cm.

Arrange them in a checkerboard pattern: the projection from each clove should fall in the middle of the space between the two nearest cloves from the adjacent row.

Leave 15 cm between the children and the same distance between rows of the same depth.

Autumn planting of garlic from “A” to “Z”. All the subtleties of autumn planting.

Awakening dried cloves

It also happens that the gardener was late and did not have time to immerse the cloves in the ground on time. If the delay is insignificant, then it makes sense to use a method through which the cloves can be brought back to life. The procedure is as follows:

1. Immerse the cloves in warm water and keep them in it for two or three hours;
2. Take moss or sawdust and moisten it. Place the soaked cloves in them;
3. Leave the cloves in a warm, dry room for several days. It is advisable if there is a battery nearby, which will speed up the drying process;

Warm temperatures and low humidity will speed up the germination of cloves

The cloves should be planted in soil disinfected with potassium permanganate.

In order for the harvested garlic crop to last longer, it is important not only to properly process the planting material, but also to select suitable conditions for subsequent storage. Below we talk about which storage options allow garlic to last as long as possible.

Garlic storage options

Timing and features of planting by regions of Russia

The agricultural technology of garlic in different climatic zones of the country is approximately the same, but there are differences in the optimal depth and preferred planting patterns, timing of the procedure, and covering of the beds.

It is worth paying attention to zoning and winter hardiness of the variety.

In outskirts of Moscow

Winter in this region is quite mild and snowy; garlic cloves remain viable until spring without any problems.

Plan to plant in mid-October.

But if the autumn is very warm, the procedure can be carried out within the time frame for the southern regions. Focus on the air temperature.

Garlic should not be planted after rainstorms. Ideally, when the soil is slightly moist, in such a substrate the plant actively grows its root system. You can plant the slice in dry soil and water it.

The most suitable varieties for the Moscow region are:

• Novosibirsk;
• Reliable;
• Podmoskovsky;
• Jagged tooth.

In the Urals

In autumn it gets cold quickly in the Urals, it is important not to miss the right time to plant winter garlic.

The optimal planting time in the Middle Urals is from September 20 to October 10, in the Southern Urals - from October 5 to 10. Winter garlic ripens in this climate zone at the end of July.

When planting garlic before winter in the Urals, make deep holes or furrows, otherwise the cloves will suffer from frost.

It is best to place the bulbs at a level of 13-18 cm underground. When planting in two tiers, place the top row at a depth of 10 cm, and the bottom - 20 cm.

Cover the bed with mulch made from dense materials - sawdust, peat, humus. If you planted garlic seeds rather than cloves, when frost comes, it is advisable to put a film on top of the mulch.

Fir branches are good for retaining snow. In spring, add fresh mulch without removing the old layer.

In Siberia

In this region, the second half of summer is usually cool and rainy, so you can plant garlic before winter earlier than in the Urals.

In October, only the first days are suitable for this. The optimal dates are from September 15 to October 5. The harvest ripens by August.

Place baby bulbs in the ground no closer than 6-8 cm to the surface of the earth. In Western Siberia, planting should be even deeper. Be sure to mulch the rows.

In winter, keep an eye on the snow cover; if the wind blows it away, scatter it with a shovel or cover the bed with spruce branches.

In the harsh climate of Siberia, only varieties zoned for this region can survive the winter safely.

A good option would be:

• Siberian;
• Gribovsky Yubileiny;
• Novosibirsk 1;
• Lyubasha;
• Sofievsky;
• Elenovsky;
• Scythian;
• Alcor;
• Saved.

Growing Tips

There are several tips and tricks regarding planting garlic for the winter that will help you reap a rich harvest of this vegetable.

• Place the cloves strictly bottom down, that is, strictly vertically, otherwise there is a risk that they simply will not germinate and it will be impossible to care for them. Don’t forget that you can’t deepen the seedlings too much.
• Do not skimp on water for irrigation; winter garlic loves moist soil. Watering should be done once every three to four days.
• Do not screw them into the soil; it may happen that the clove simply pushes out during rooting
• For insulation, it is best to use peat or sawdust; this material retains the temperature in the soil for a long time
• Many summer residents specially sprinkle their beds with snow in winter to improve the yield. This works as a natural shelter.
• Do not use soil for garlic before winter more than twice in a row, otherwise you risk being left without a harvest.

Planting a whole head of garlic

It is not necessary to disassemble the garlic bulb into cloves before planting - whole heads can be placed in the soil. This method allows you to get more yield from the plot and saves time.

When separating there is a risk of damaging the teeth, this will not happen in this case.

Heads with 4-5 cloves without stains, damage, or rot are suitable for planting. The bulb should be dense to the touch, and all the babies should be firm.

Having selected the material, carry out the planting procedure:

1. Peel the onion with your fingers, especially the top part where the leaves and flower stalks will grow.
2. Cut the arrow, retreating 4-6 cm from the head.
3. Cut off the hard bottom with the remnants of old roots.
4. Soak the onion in the disinfectant solution. The same products that are used to treat teeth are suitable for this.
5. Plant the head in a hole 10 cm deep. The distance to the others should be 25-30 cm.
6. Water the garden bed.

It is important to consider that with this method of planting, the volume of fertilizer applied to the garden bed should be higher. The head will “eat” 4-5 times more nutrients.

Considering the lower density of the holes, it is necessary to increase the amount of fertilizing per 1 m2 by 3-4 times. It is useful to put old compost at the bottom of the holes, and if the soil is very poor, fill them with compost as well.

It is recommended to pour a teaspoon of garden diatomaceous earth into each hole.

This substance reduces soil acidity, prevents the occurrence of rot and disease, and reduces the amount of nitrates and heavy metals in the soil.

NEW METHOD! PLANTING GARLIC IN WHOLE HEADS! I AM EXTREMELY DELIGHTED WITH THE RESULT!

Viroschuvannya to the watchmaker.

Leather in the market costs more and more - 7-9 times more expensive than potatoes! And three times more expensive than the sun in the middle of the season. The main reason for such road conditions is the frequent freezing of last winter and weather disasters.

But the proven mayor is obligated to give the gift of transfer in order to avoid such a situation. It is worthwhile to read the literature about the correct development of the clock, so that the future can avoid expenses. So, what do the city workers recommend?

Let's talk about the high frost resistance of the winter season. You can hear the songs of frost in good weather, but not the kind we had last winter. Another reason for the clock plant to freeze is early planting in warm soil, when it comes before frost to release the plants from the ground.

The third and third landing of the clock. Yes, and planting at a greater depth, in the spring there will be more growth, while still growing and yielding a harvest! The winter chapel grows sadly on the sunica plantation. Do not harvest before the leaves fall. First of all, pour the mixed ashes, selected egg peel, cybulin husk and humus onto the garden bed. Take teeth only from large, healthy, well-dried heads.

Propagation of winter garlic

If you practice planting with cloves constantly, over time the garlic begins to age. This is reflected in the size of the bulbs and is manifested by a decrease in immunity.

To renew the plant, it is recommended from time to time to sow the seeds that form in the bag at the top of the arrow. They are called bulbs.

If you sow in the fall, by next summer the bulbs will develop into single-toothed bulbs. And from them, like from ordinary teeth, heads with several lobes grow.

Usually the arrows are broken out at the beginning of summer, but to obtain seeds, leave a few flower stalks on the strongest and most developed bushes.

When the skin on the airy bulb bursts, break off the stem a few centimeters away from it. Tie all the arrows and bulbs into bunches and hang them from the ceiling.

Only when the entire stem has dried out can the bulbs be removed from it.

Sowing of seeds should be done in March. In July, they will form one-toothed plants, which can be planted in October to obtain a full harvest next year.

But often the bulbs have time to dry out by spring, so many gardeners prefer to plant them before winter. The timing of autumn sowing is the same as for planting cloves.

Leave the largest bulbs for the seed. A day before placing them in the soil, you can soak them in water, changing it 3-4 times during this time.

Those bulbs that have not ripened will float; they should not be planted. Make the grooves 3 cm deep at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. When placing seeds in them, leave a space of 3-5 cm between the bulbs.

Dry and sort the single-toothed bulbs dug up in the summer. Leave the healthiest and largest specimens for planting. They are planted in the same way as ordinary children.

How to properly plant a chapel so that you become great

Who doesn’t love such a fragrant and savory spice as chasnik? This vegetable is often harvested in our region for the preparation of various herbs. If you have a summer cottage, you can independently grow the winter season, which will grow to great proportions. Therefore, planting begins approximately a few days before the first frost, so that the plant does not freeze and produces a wonderful harvest in the coming season. How to plant a chapel before winter (video) and make it great? The evidence on this topic will be discussed in this article.

How to plant a chapel before winter?

Caring for winter garlic after planting

Basic care for a garlic bed begins in the spring. There are few autumn activities; the main task is to insulate the planting, protect it from pests, and stimulate root growth.

1. Immediately after planting the segments, mulch this area with peat, humus or compost. The layer height should be about 10 cm.
2. Cover the top of the planting with cut branches of shrubs or perennials. This shelter is needed to retain snow. Don't forget to remove it in the spring.
3. If there is no rain in the next two weeks after planting the garlic, give it a couple of waterings. This will help the babies settle down better.
4. 2 weeks after planting, it is useful to water the row spacing with a solution of birch tar. To do this, dissolve 1 tablespoon of tar and 30 g of soap shavings in 10 liters of water. Repeat watering after another half month.

Distance to the border when planting fruit trees

When planting fruit trees on your site, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the legislative acts of tree planting in order to maintain good neighborly relations. Thus, the standards stipulate that the distance from a perennial plant to the border of the site should be at least 3 meters for short trees.

The larger the diameter of the crown, the greater this distance becomes, because neighbors can rightfully remove tree branches and roots extending beyond the boundaries of your site without your consent. Bushes can be planted at a distance of 1 meter from the border, and plums, peaches, cherries - 2 meters.

How to care for winter garlic in spring

Gardening work in the spring usually begins with caring for a bed of garlic, since the bulbs sprout immediately after the snow cover melts.

If there is a shelter at the planting site, remove it to speed up the warming of the soil. As soon as the soil dries, loosen the rows. Repeat this procedure after each rain or watering.

7-10 days after the snow melts, feed the garlic. At this time, plants require a lot of nitrogen. Use to fertilize garlic:

• urea - 1 tablespoon per bucket of water;
• ammonium nitrate - 15 g per bucket;
• azofoska – 7 g per square meter.

Use a bucket of solution for 3 m2. Apply fertilizer only to moist soil. If spring is dry, water the bed the day before.

Further feeding scheme:

1. After 10-12 days, give the garlic nitrogen again.
2. After 7 days, spray the bushes with a solution of nitroammophoska (1 spoon of granules per bucket of water). This product contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur.
3. After 7 days, water the bushes with a solution of nitroammophoska (2 tablespoons of granules per bucket).
4. In the summer, in the second half of July, feed the garlic with superphosphate extract. Phosphorus nutrition at this stage is necessary for the growth of the bulbs. Pour 2 tablespoons of granules into a bucket of water and leave for 24-36 hours before watering. 10 liters of fertilizer is enough for 2 m2.

If the spring turns out to be dry, water the garlic every 1.5-2 weeks. If the weather is also hot, increase the frequency of irrigation to once every 6-7 days.

Pour 10-12 liters of water per square; the soil should be wet to a depth of 50 cm.

From the beginning of May (or when 3-5 leaves are formed), water with saline solution every 10 days. For the first use, dissolve 300 g of salt in a bucket of water, then add 400 g of salt per bucket.

You can water no more than 3-4 times per season. This is an effective way to combat soil pests, but it should not be abused, since sodium and chlorine slow down the development of the plant, destroy the soil structure, facilitating the leaching of nutrients from it.

A saline solution is also used for spraying if an onion fly is noticed on the planting. In this case, the salt concentration should be less - 250 g per 10 liters of water.

Spray the evening before the scheduled watering. In the morning, irrigate the garlic planting using the sprinkling method, trying to wash off the salt from the leaves.

Koli sajati chasnik before winter

Planting lines for spring 2019

Koli sajati winter hour? The winter season begins to grow in the fall. The first crop needs to be taken from the plot where you plan to sow the winter season, no later than the end of the lime tree. Planting of the plant on the ground begins 35-45 days before frost. Before winter sets in and the ground freezes, the plant grows to expand the root system of the plant by 10-12 cm, and the green foliage will no longer appear. The optimal landing time for the watchmaker is from 20 pm to the middle of the summer. However, if you wanted to grow the chasnik from the bulbs, and not from the teeth, then you can sit them in the kettle.

If a watchmaker is better than sadjati

If the plantings are too late, they will sprout, which cannot be allowed categorically, and if the plantings are too early, they will not take root and will freeze, so it is important to follow the correct guidelines for planting winter varieties.

Is it possible to plant winter garlic in the spring like spring garlic?

If the garlic froze over the winter, sprouted in the fall, or the gardener did not have time to plant it, it is possible to plant a winter variety in the spring.

In this case, a single-toothed head is formed from the baby, but a full-fledged bulb with several segments is not formed.

However, if you keep the planting material at low temperatures for some time, the garlic will develop as usual - that is, it will form a multi-toothed bulb.

Place the cloves in a damp cloth or container of moistened sand or sawdust and place on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

If there is no longer severe frost outside, you can send the slices to an unheated room (barn, veranda, glazed loggia, etc.).

In such an environment, garlic should lie for several weeks, at least a month. Remember to dampen the rag or sand from time to time.

The second option is to plant the cloves on the seedlings in individual glasses. The volume of the container for one slice must be at least 250 g.

Seedlings should be kept at a cool temperature of +10…+12°C. It should be planted in February, about a month and a half before planting.

Planting dates in spring:

• for southern regions – after March 15;
• in the middle zone - from the end of March, and in cold spring - no earlier than the end of April;
• in the north - in early May.

Spring planting of winter garlic. A very simple procedure for excellent results!

What varieties should be planted in the Moscow region?

Garlic is a vegetable familiar to any gardener. It has a characteristic taste and smell, sometimes it is even called the “king of spices.”

In addition to taste, garlic has a number of beneficial properties for the human body. Therefore, the gardener’s desire to grow vegetables on his plot is understandable.

Today there is the following classification of vegetables (by planting time):

1. Winter crops are characterized by frost resistance and good immunity, large and evenly distributed cloves;
2. Spring crops tolerate frosts less well than winter crops, but are better stored. They can be distinguished from winter crops by their unevenly distributed cloves of different sizes.

The Moscow region is located in the continental climate zone. This means that the frosts there are not as severe as in Siberia or the Urals, but they cannot be put on a par with the gentle southern winters.

From here we can draw one conclusion - winter varieties of garlic are suitable for planting in the fall before winter in the Moscow region. Typical examples: “Lyubasha”, “Bogatyr”, “Gribovsky 80”, etc.

IMPORTANT! Among winter varieties there are so-called “shooting” varieties. This means that winter garlic grows an above-ground herbaceous succulent part - the arrow. These arrows often grow aerial bulbs - the so-called bulbs (they can be used for propagation). It is advisable to remove the arrow in time, otherwise there is a risk of a reduction in the yield, and the bulbs will go to planting.

When to harvest winter garlic

If you keep the bulbs in the ground, the plants will enter the second growing season - the cloves will begin to divide and shoot out arrows. But you can’t remove them too early - unripe slices have a different pulp.

The fruits usually reach maturity in mid-July. In dry summers, the bulbs ripen later, and if there has been a lot of rain, earlier.

More accurately, the degree of maturity of garlic can be determined by the arrows: by this moment they are completely untwisted, becoming straight, and the bags with seeds begin to crack.

Usually the flower stalks are removed, but it is worth leaving a few just to determine the date of digging.

Another sign of ripeness is that the lower leaves turn yellow and begin to dry out.

Experienced gardeners advise harvesting when the first two leaves dry out. Dig up one plant for testing: if the teeth are easily separated from the stem, and the scales are easily separated from the pulp, then the bulb is ripe.

Harvesting rules:

1. Dig garlic on a dry, sunny day. If you select the heads after rain, when they are saturated with moisture, the harvest will be stored much less.
2. Use a shovel or fork to dig; do not pull the bulb out by the tops. Try not to cut the fruit, otherwise it will begin to rot.
3. Before storing the garlic, dry it for another 1-2 days in dry weather. Move indoors at night as dew can wet the bulbs.
4. Trim dry leaves and stems, leaving a tail 3-4 cm long. But for storage in a braid or wreath, the stem should be longer.
5. Sort through the garlic, get rid of diseased bulbs. The cut heads must be eaten soon, otherwise they will rot.

The harvest is ready for harvesting in storage.

☘ Garlic harvesting time: when to harvest winter garlic