Attaching the tank to the toilet: a detailed description of the installation process

Attaching the tank to the toilet is a simple process, but it is important to carefully follow the installation instructions. The installation procedure differs depending on the type of waste container. Compact models are the easiest to install; even a beginner in construction work can do it.

Before starting installation, you need to prepare equipment and tools, then prepare the location. If necessary, you must first remove the old tank and clean the surface.

What is necessary?

Of course, you can’t do without the necessary tools and equipment, so first of all you need to prepare them. What exactly is useful is determined by the type of design and certain characteristics.

You need to pay attention to some nuances.

• How is the tank attached to the toilet? This can be a monolithic installation together with a toilet, or a wall-hung structure, or a model where the tank is mounted in a hidden niche.
• How is water supply connected to the tank? It can come from below or from the side. In the first case, the typical reason for the lower supply will be the need to line the pipes. This installation is not very simple. But summing up from the outside is both simpler and more familiar.
• What kind of reinforcement structure is used. That is, it comes with a lever or a drain button.

For installation you need:

• shut-off valve (it is placed on the water supply system, allowing you to shut off the water flowing from the water supply system to the tank);
• rubber, copper and steel liners mounted to the inlet pipe;
• drain fittings responsible for collecting/discharging water;
• silicone sealant or tape sealant used for auxiliary sealing;
• agent against corrosive deformation of metal elements of the installation.

In most cases, fastening involves using bolts and nuts that are included in the plumbing kit itself (i.e., you do not need to buy anything additional).

The following tools need to be selected: a drill, drills for metal and tiles, a marking marker, a hammer (for dowels), a wrench, a level, a core, a rubber spatula that will remove excess sealant. To attach the tank to the compact toilet, you need an open-end and socket-type wrench. To connect the bypass pipe, you should find an adjustable wrench with a diameter corresponding to the cross-section of the coupling.

Remove the old toilet

If you are installing a new toilet and not replacing it, move on to the next point.

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Turn off the tap at the entrance to the tank or (if there is none) the tap at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible line and then press the drain button. Fill a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet to flush any remaining waste inside the siphon down the drain. Use a sponge to remove water from the bowl.

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Unscrew the toilet mounting screws that secure it to the floor. Using a sharp knife, trim the caulk around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the siphon outlet and move the toilet. Cover the sewer pipe with a bag or rag so that the smell does not penetrate the room.

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If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First, unscrew the mounting bolts, spraying them with WD‑40 if necessary. Then, using a screwdriver, crumble the cement caulking around the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, having previously heated it with a torch or a hair dryer, and remove the toilet.

Sometimes it's easier to split ancient plumbing fixtures with a hammer or hammer drill, and then remove the fragments from the sewer pipe. If you decide to take drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Use a hammer to knock out the wooden stand and remove all debris. Using repair compound or tile adhesive, fill the resulting depression and wait 6-12 hours until it hardens completely.

How to assemble a tank with a button?

The fittings of the compact model are inlet and outlet valves. The inlet is called a float; this part, which is connected to the water supply, is designed to collect liquid and adjust its level.

Installation takes place in several steps.

1. Before installation, a cleaning filter must first be installed in the internal cavity of the mechanism at the external outlet. Even before installation, it is important to record its presence in the kit.
2. The device is attached to the bottom wall of the tank; do not forget to put a gasket on the inside for sealing (this is mandatory!). Fixation from the outside is carried out using the nut from the kit.
3. The outer set has a thread; after attaching the tank itself, a flexible water supply hose is connected to it.

The outlet valve (or drain siphon) can be single-level or two-level. In the case of a single-level design, all the water from the tank is released into the toilet. And with a design with two levels, the owner himself decides whether to drain all the liquid or only part of it.

The installation is similar to the intake system. The lower part is made in the form of a bowl, which must be placed in the drain hole of the tank. And here, too, you need to remember about the silicone gasket and the locking nut. Once the bottom piece is secured, a simple twist and click adds the main piston system. After installing the cover, the push-button assembly is mounted.

Once again, it is worth noting: before installation, you need to make sure that the manufacturer has completed all the parts. But it happens that the owner is not satisfied with the quality of the parts from the kit, then he makes a replacement himself. Instead of rubber gaskets, for example, you can use high-quality silicone ones. Bolts can also be replaced with stainless steel parts. But such measures, of course, are carried out even before installation. New parts must be checked against the main components of the mechanism.

Connect to the sewer

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Remove the bag or rag from the sewer outlet. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or detergent and insert the pipe into it, and then the toilet flush into it. Install the corrugation or eccentric collar in the same way.

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On an old cast-iron sewer, first insert a special adapter collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the socket that has been cleaned and lubricated with sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.

Installation procedure

The specific instructions for attaching the tank to the toilet depend on what type of device you purchased.

The following types of drain containers are available on the modern plumbing equipment market:

• mounted separately from the toilet bowl,
• mounted on a bowl, for which the latter is equipped with a special shelf,
• built into the wall.

Let's consider any option in more detail.

Method 1. Mounted cistern

This method of placement is seen quite rarely and is even less used in private buildings. However, be aware of it.

The toilet tank is fastened as follows:

1. A special flush pipe, the diameter of which is 32 mm, is connected to the bottom of the drain tank. There is a special hole for this purpose.

2. Then marking is done. The tank is placed against the wall at such a height that the lower end of the pipe is opposite the inlet pipe of the toilet bowl located on the floor. After this, markings are applied to the surface of the wall using a marker or pencil.

3. The holes for the brackets are drilled. If the walls of the toilet are cement or tiled, you need to use a hammer drill with a special drill. This will make your work easier and speed up the process, and the resulting hole will be neater.

4. Select the correct tool diameter. It must exactly match the dimensions of the dowels or anchor bolts used.

5. Then the brackets are screwed to the wall, and a water storage tank is attached to them.

Method 2. Built-in tank

This refers to a structure installed on the shelf of the toilet bowl.

In this case, the flush cistern is attached to the toilet in the following sequence:

1. A rubber gasket is installed on the bowl. In most cases, it is already coated with a special adhesive that holds it in place. If this is not true, it is necessary to additionally use a special sealing sanitary gel.

Advice! Coat the gasket on both sides, since one is attached to the toilet shelf, and the other is adjacent to the flush tank. In addition, it is possible to additionally use a special rubber ring that seals the drain hole at the bottom of the container.

2. To secure the tank to the toilet bowl, special bolts with cone-shaped rubber gaskets are used. They are inserted into the holes provided for this purpose and screwed in well with nuts from below. Do not use too much force to tighten the nuts. This can lead to breakage of the tank or bowl, since ceramics do not withstand strong external influences well.

Upon completion of installation, the rubber parts provide the most airtight connection, which will not allow leaks after filling the container with water.

3. In order to prevent water from flowing out of other holes (for example, for the water supply pipe), it is necessary to use special rubber plugs. Before installation, it is also recommended to lubricate them with gel to obtain the tightest possible connection.

4. The next stage is the installation of drain fittings and connection of the water supply. During these operations, it is necessary to ensure that all gaskets, membranes and seals are in place.

It is recommended to wrap polymer tape on the external thread of the inlet pipe to protect against leaks.

5. The last stage is testing. It is necessary to unscrew the shut-off valve that cuts off the water supply to the tank and fill the container with water. To adjust the liquid level, a float mounted on a rocker arm or screw is used.

Advice! Plumbing gel takes some time to polymerize. Based on this, it is recommended to carry out testing 1-2 hours after the completion of the installation procedure.

Method 3. Hidden tank

A drainage container hidden in the wall is quite an expensive, but very aesthetic and popular option for arranging a toilet room. In addition to everything else, the hidden placement of the tank allows you to save space in the restroom and protect the structure from accidental damage.

On the outside, the built-in cistern differs from classic models:

• it is made from durable polymers and has fairly thick walls,
• the shape of the hidden tank is more extended upward and to the sides, so that it takes up less space in the wall,
• the shutter button is located not on the cover, but on the front surface of the device,
• For fastening, a special installation is used, which is included in the delivery set.

The work order is as follows:

1. A steel frame is installed in a place pre-designated for installation, which will serve to secure both the flush cistern and the toilet itself. When installing it, it is necessary to perfectly maintain the horizontal and vertical, otherwise troubles will arise when you begin to attach additional fittings.
2. A tank is installed on the frame and water is supplied to it. For this, it is better to use solid tubes, which provide great reliability. Since after tiling the hidden tank is finished, repairs will be problematic.
3. As in previous cases, it is better to connect the supply pipe through a shut-off valve.
4. Upon completion of the installation of the tank, the sewage system is installed, the steel frame is sheathed with pages of waterproof plasterboard, which is lined with the selected decorative material.
5. The last stage is the installation of a button for the toilet, which controls the flush fittings. It is better to use a separate drain, which allows you to save water from the tap.

Attach the toilet to the floor

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Move the bowl to the intended place and mark the mounting holes on the floor with a marker. If the toilet has hidden brackets, trace the bottom around the perimeter, and then measure the required distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.

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Drill holes in the floor. First the tiles using a special drill for ceramics, and then the concrete using a suitable drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.

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Apply the silicone in a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching 2-3 cm from the edge, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens a little.

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Then install the plumbing fixtures in place and, putting plastic washers on the fastening bolts, tighten them with a wrench. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst; it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Place decorative caps on the bolt heads.

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Fill the joint between the bowl and the tile using sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, since the white one turns yellow and gets dirty over time.

If there are heated floor pipes under the tiles or you cannot drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet bowl to silicone.

To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you must wait at least a day until the sealant has completely hardened.

Construction and adjustment of the compact

When the toilet tank can no longer be repaired, it is replaced. A step-by-step replacement of the toilet tank can be performed by following the following algorithm:

1. shut off the flow of cold water;
2. disconnect the old tank from the water pipe;
3. using an adjustable wrench or wrench, remove the mounting bolts to dismantle the tank;
4. clean the container mounting area from traces of rust, dirt and lime;
5. install a new tank in accordance with the above recommendations;
6. connect the equipment to the water supply;
7. adjust the water level;
8. install the lid and drain button;
9. carry out a test set and drain the water.

• cistern container with lid;
• system for filling water into a container;
• shut-off device or water drainage system;
• control button or lever;
• toilet.

The tank in the compact is installed on a special shelf, which is located behind the bowl. Typically, adjustment of the fittings of such a toilet is carried out after the cistern bowl is installed, but before its lid is installed. Before starting work, it is recommended to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. Usually there is detailed information about the procedure for performing the work.

Compact toilets are popular because they are convenient and take up little space. The tank of such a device is installed on a shelf directly behind the bowl

The overflow pipe of the device usually indicates the water level that is considered normal for that particular model. You need to find this designation, which is often made in the form of a strip or bead. Usually, if, when filling the tank, the maximum water level is below this mark, poor-quality flushing of sewage is observed.

Read more: How to work with press fittings for metal-plastic pipes

To change the situation, you need to move the “glass” on the intake valve to a higher position. To do this, loosen the clamps holding this element located under the float. After the required level has been set, you need to check the result of the work, i.e. fill the tank and drain the water.

On the top of the toilet tank inlet valve overflow pipe there is a mark in the form of a dash or collar for adjusting the water level

When installing tank fittings, it should be remembered that all moving parts of the valves must be separated by a distance, at least small. If the valves come into contact during operation, this can disrupt the normal operation of the system, leading to its imbalance and breakdown. It is also unacceptable for the moving elements of the fittings to come into contact with the walls of the tank.

We open the previously shut off water, fill it into the tank and see if the water splashes during the fill. If this does not happen, close the tank with a lid.

An important stage in installing the tank is installing the lid with a push-button regulator. Before screwing it in, there should be a distance of no more than seven millimeters and no less than three between the cover and this unit. If these conditions are met, the cover will be fastened securely enough.

Before you start screwing the flush button, the instructions recommend making a couple of turns in the opposite direction, i.e. counterclock-wise.

To save water, modern tanks have a double flush button, which allows you to empty only part of the tank if desired.

This will center the thread position. After this, screwing the button assembly is carried out clockwise. You need to rotate it by hand until it stops; additional tools are usually not needed. Upon completion of installation, you should drain the water again to make sure that the button and all fittings are configured correctly and installed correctly.

Compacts are produced with both bottom and side water supply. With fittings designed for bottom water supply, a problem such as clogging of the filter installed at the water supply to the container may arise. After flushing, i.e. During the process of filling the tank, a characteristic, rather loud and unpleasant whistle is heard.

This situation most often indicates that the filter is clogged and needs to be washed. The debris accumulated inside reduces the clearance for water, which enters the tank with high pressure and accompanied by sound effects. In addition, due to this malfunction, the tank fills much more slowly than usual.

There is a filter located under the inlet valve float, a clogged filter that can cause the tank to malfunction. To wash the filter you need to remove it

To correct this plumbing problem, you need to flush this filter. To do this, turn off the water supply to the tank and press the flush button/lever. After this, remove the hose through which water flows to free access to the device. Now the filter just needs to be removed from the intake valve body, washed and installed back. The system is then reassembled in reverse order.

It looks simple in theory, but in reality there can be some complications. For example, you need to unscrew the plastic nut that secures the inlet valve. If this element does not have edges, the task may seem difficult.

You should not use an adjustable wrench in this situation, as excessive force may damage the fastener. It’s not always possible to just do it with your hands, especially if the plastic has become “burnt” as a result of prolonged use.

To ensure that the sediment that forms when low-quality tap water is supplied to the device does not cause a leak due to loose seals and failure of fittings, the tank and devices must be periodically cleaned

Experts recommend using other means; pliers with a large space between the “lips” may be a suitable option. Pliers can also be useful when removing the filter from the housing, since it usually fits tightly and will require additional effort for removal.

Where the quality of tap water remains consistently low (that is, almost everywhere), not only the filter, but also other elements can become clogged. The membrane bushing is at risk, as well as all the holes through which water enters.

If washing only the filter was not effective enough, it makes sense to rinse the entire device and clean all the channels. In this case, you will have to completely dismantle the inlet valve to provide access to the holes.

Unfortunately, washing the filter, and even the entire valve and ducts, does not always help. Low quality intake valves can completely fail within one and a half to two years after the start of operation. In this case, you will have to completely replace the valve with a new model. In such a situation, it is recommended to choose a higher quality filter.

The shut-off and inlet valves of modern toilets are usually provided with detailed instructions, with the help of which these mechanisms are not difficult to assemble, install and adjust

The additional costs will pay off, since there will be several times fewer problems with setup, flushing and repairs. Another way to prolong the operation of the tank fittings and prevent problems: install an additional mechanical filter on the water pipe in front of the toilet or even at the entrance of the system to the apartment.

If the compact has problems with the shut-off valve, i.e. Since water constantly leaks into the toilet, the easiest way to fix the problem is to completely replace the device with a new one, exactly the same. To do this, you need to turn off the water and simply remove the valve from the tank.

The new one is installed in its place, fixing it in the holders of the receiving part. It is recommended to adjust the length of the valve in advance so that there are no problems with installing the flush button.

If it is necessary to replace the old storage tank with a new one, you need to:

• shut off the flow of water into the container by setting the valve to the “closed” position;
• Next, you need to drain the liquid from the bowl;
• if you want to use the old fittings in a new bowl, carefully remove the filling device;
• then you need to unscrew the fastening bolts connecting the container to the toilet seat and remove it;
• remove the drain device by unscrewing the connections attaching the bulb seat to the bowl;
• Before installing a new tank, you need to clean the surface of the toilet seat from rust and mineral/bacteriological deposits.

As can be seen from the above, there is nothing particularly difficult about installing a toilet tank yourself, attaching and adjusting the fittings. These operations are within the power of any person.

Some difficulties may arise only when servicing installed containers, since many operations have to be carried out through a small technological opening in the absence of visual contact.

Preliminary work before installation

Before proceeding directly to the installation work, it is necessary to prepare both the site of action and the object of application of forces, in this case, the drain tank with all the auxiliary elements.

Moreover, preliminary work is carried out in several stages (although not all of them are mandatory - it all depends on the type of equipment chosen).

Step #1 - dismantling the drain tank before replacing

Before installing a new cistern, you must first dismantle the old one. And if your toilet is from the times of the Soviet Union, it is better to enlist the help of an assistant - it will not be easy to move the cast-iron tank alone and knock off the rusted bolts.

When unscrewing the flexible water supply hose from the inlet valve, use a container (such as a bucket) to prevent any remaining liquid in the pipe from spilling onto the floor.

The disassembly itself occurs according to the following scheme:

1. Turn off the water supply to the tank (close the central valve).
2. We remove the remaining liquid from it, that is, we simply drain the water.
3. We disconnect the container from the pipes - the water supply and the bypass, if there is one (it is at this stage that an assistant will be very useful).
4. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the old structure. We carry out these operations with care so as not to drop the heavy tank and damage the tiled floor or toilet bowl.
5. We clear the free space for a new installation. We try to completely remove rust and cement residues, leaving only a smooth, defect-free surface.

After carefully completing all of the above steps, you can begin preparatory work.

Step #2 - preparing the place and materials

Before installing a new tank, check the condition of the remaining plumbing and communications.

When purchasing a complete toilet set, we recommend that you check the availability of everything promised, and also make sure that the fasteners meet your installation conditions

What to pay attention to:

1. Toilet bowl. Even if you are only changing the tank itself, you need to make sure that the main element of the “tandem” is installed correctly. To do this, use a building level to check whether it is level - if there are significant deviations, it is better to eliminate the tilt. Such care is needed when installing a compact toilet, since due to the tilt, the tank in this system may not work correctly. At the same time, it is worth inspecting the connection of the equipment to the sewer.
2. Failed communications . At this stage, the location and condition of the cold water supply pipe should be clarified, which then needs to be shut off. At the same time, calculate how long the flexible hose should be to connect the tank to the water supply, as well as the need to include a ball valve or additional water supply outlets in the system (for example, to a washing machine).
3. Cistern . Make sure that the container itself has no defects, all spare parts are available and are ideal for installation. The length of the mounting bolts and flexible water hose must be sufficient for a reliable connection, and all gaskets and couplings must be properly sized. It is also worth checking the completeness and functionality of the internal fittings.

Now make sure that all the necessary tools and materials are at hand - this way you will spend less time and effort on the installation process.

To install a cistern, you don’t need many tools, and most of them will probably be available to any housekeeper who is used to doing things around the house with their own hands.

To work you will need:

• To install a compact toilet tank, you only need wrenches - a flat open-end or socket and a cylindrical socket. Moreover, the carob one can be replaced with an adjustable one or even use pliers, and the end one can be either monolithic or composite. These wrenches are used to tighten the mounting bolts.
• When installing other types of flush tanks, you need to add a tape measure with a building level and a pencil (mark the location of the holes for fasteners), as well as a drill (or hammer drill) and a hammer for installing dowels under the bolts.
• Connecting the bypass pipe additionally requires an adjustable wrench to match the diameter of the coupling.
• To ensure waterproof connections, it is worth stocking up on silicone sealant and sealing tape, and to prevent corrosion of metal parts in contact with water (most often bolt heads) - and a special lubricant.

Before starting installation, do not forget to turn off the water at the central valve.

Fastener selection

All fasteners and gaskets are usually included in the package.

If they are missing, fasteners are selected in compliance with the following rules:

1. To fasten the tank to the toilet, use bolts with a smooth part at the top of the rod.
2. Metal fasteners must be made of stainless steel, non-ferrous metals or have an anti-corrosion coating. Regular steel will quickly become rusty. The composition can be easily checked with a magnet.
3. All fastener elements must be cast from the same metal of good quality, otherwise electrochemical corrosion will occur upon contact with water.
4. High-quality plastic fasteners for the tank are not inferior in strength and reliability to metal ones.
5. To fasten compact models, a cone-shaped gasket is used. This shape ensures that the gasket fits securely to the smooth top of the bolt shaft and provides a tight seal. As a last resort, you can use a regular gasket, but only complete with a bolt and a pressed washer.
6. Silicone gaskets are better than rubber ones.

High-quality bolts with nuts, washers and gaskets allow you to secure the plumbing fixtures so that there are no leaks.

Try the toilet in place

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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place and try to sit down. To save space, you can press as close as possible to the wall, but not as closely as possible - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.

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Align the drain with the sewer outlet. If you are using a straight pipe for the connection, measure with a tape measure and cut off the required piece. Use a knife to remove any burrs from the edge. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff, try on how they become.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

A few tips from experienced professional plumbers will help you avoid serious mistakes and complete your installation faster.

If done correctly, installing a plumbing fixture yourself should not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is not to rush to put it into operation immediately, allowing time for the silicone to solidify thoroughly.

Setting up the tank fittings is not difficult. It is important to study the instructions and understand the general principles of operation of the inlet and locking mechanisms. Attention to detail and accuracy will help to complete all the work correctly.

Sources:

• https://TrubaNet.ru/kanalizacionnye-truby/kreplenie-bachka-k-unitazu-instrukciya.html
• https://dekoriko.ru/unitaz/kreplenie-bachka/
• https://partner-tomsk.ru/santehnika/kanalizatsiya/kreplenie-bachka-k-unitazu-3-metoda-montazha-bez-oshibok
• https://ManRem.ru/kreplenie-bachka-unitazu-instruktsii-sovety-provedeniyu-rabot/
• https://UnitazVdome.ru

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Install the toilet seat

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Assemble the lid fittings. If there are “left” and “right” marks on the mounts, do not confuse them. Insert the rubber bushings into the holes, install the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them to the width of the toilet seat holes.

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Tighten the mounting bolts with plastic washers from below. Place the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until it clicks.

Overview of species

As it has already turned out, there are either 1-button or 2-button models of toilet flush systems. In the first case, there is only one button on the tank lid, when pressed, the water inside the drain tank is completely used for flushing. The two-button flush system is equipped with two buttons. As a rule, the buttons in this case differ from each other in shape and size. When you press the smaller button, only part of the water pours out. When you press the large button, the tank is completely emptied.

Models with single and double buttons, in addition to external differences, also have different internals. The locking drain system of a two-button tank has 2 holes, each of which is designed to operate from a specific button.

Single-button flush systems have only one drain hole.